A/C water in Passenger foot well
#82
04-23-2014, 06:38 PM
#83
04-25-2014, 08:14 AM
I have been reading this thread with great interest, as living in the South simply means that your A/C MUST drain.
I got my '07 XK a few weeks ago and have not idea what the previous owner(s) might have done. So this morning I got my hand between the trans and housing enough that I was able to touch what I presume is the drain. What I felt seems to be the open end(a complete circle) of a hose about the size of my little finger (no duckbill). For those that have been in there, would this indicate that at some point this issue has been fixed?
Thanks for all the great comments.
I got my '07 XK a few weeks ago and have not idea what the previous owner(s) might have done. So this morning I got my hand between the trans and housing enough that I was able to touch what I presume is the drain. What I felt seems to be the open end(a complete circle) of a hose about the size of my little finger (no duckbill). For those that have been in there, would this indicate that at some point this issue has been fixed?
Thanks for all the great comments.
The following users liked this post:
JagXKR2009 (06-13-2021)
#84
04-25-2014, 02:20 PM
Veteran Member
a/c
hi all, getting my 2007 xkr on wedensday, saw in glove box where previous owner had receipts for replacing this issue in 2013, don't know whether it was replaced with upgrade part/tube, but dash was taken out to fix, how long will it take for this problem to occur again or will it. Should i just do the tube in the evaporate quick fix and it will be finished with.
#85
04-25-2014, 02:45 PM
I have been reading this thread with great interest, as living in the South simply means that your A/C MUST drain.
I got my '07 XK a few weeks ago and have not idea what the previous owner(s) might have done. So this morning I got my hand between the trans and housing enough that I was able to touch what I presume is the drain. What I felt seems to be the open end(a complete circle) of a hose about the size of my little finger (no duckbill). For those that have been in there, would this indicate that at some point this issue has been fixed?
Thanks for all the great comments.
I got my '07 XK a few weeks ago and have not idea what the previous owner(s) might have done. So this morning I got my hand between the trans and housing enough that I was able to touch what I presume is the drain. What I felt seems to be the open end(a complete circle) of a hose about the size of my little finger (no duckbill). For those that have been in there, would this indicate that at some point this issue has been fixed?
Thanks for all the great comments.
#86
04-26-2014, 06:04 AM
The following users liked this post:
JagXKR2009 (06-07-2021)
#87
08-22-2014, 09:02 PM
Member
a/c passenger footwell water
Found water in the foot well of my 2007 XKR. Thank you to all for prior posts and solutions. I called two nearby Jag dealers (60 miles away each). This problem was well known to them. Price for repair (remove dash and reroute and replace condensate drain) about $1000 as projected. One the the dealers told me: If I paid $400.00 Jag would cover the rest. He further stated they had done several other Jags during the course of this summer. Well I'm $400 poorer and so far no water in the foot well.
I found it interesting Jag would warranty an 07 Jag in 2014 to the tune of about $600. I do have an extended warranty from Fidelity, who also knew of the recall and declined coverage.
I found it interesting Jag would warranty an 07 Jag in 2014 to the tune of about $600. I do have an extended warranty from Fidelity, who also knew of the recall and declined coverage.
#88
08-23-2014, 12:25 AM
Veteran Member
Found water in the foot well of my 2007 XKR. Thank you to all for prior posts and solutions. I called two nearby Jag dealers (60 miles away each). This problem was well known to them. Price for repair (remove dash and reroute and replace condensate drain) about $1000 as projected. One the the dealers told me: If I paid $400.00 Jag would cover the rest. He further stated they had done several other Jags during the course of this summer. Well I'm $400 poorer and so far no water in the foot well.
I found it interesting Jag would warranty an 07 Jag in 2014 to the tune of about $600. I do have an extended warranty from Fidelity, who also knew of the recall and declined coverage.
I found it interesting Jag would warranty an 07 Jag in 2014 to the tune of about $600. I do have an extended warranty from Fidelity, who also knew of the recall and declined coverage.
Fidelity declined coverage? It seems that warranties and loopholes go together.
#89
08-25-2014, 06:03 PM
So the whole reason I signed up as a new member today was to post on this topic.
I tried the "close the dash vents" idea, but no results.
I then installed the secondary drain tube as described in other posts. When I drilled the hole in the evap box, about 6 ounces of water spilled out. I installed the fittings and ran the tube, but about a day later, more water! I will tell you that the evap core is not very close to where the other members recommend drilling the hole. With common sense and restraint, there is little danger of drilling too far.
So.....what was the fix? I went to Harbor Freight and purchased the $99 boroscope camera and used a wire coat hanger. I have access to a car ift, but a floor jack and safety stands should do the trick if you are comfortable with those kinds of tools.
The dealership emailed me a picture of where the "duckbill" was and what it looks like. It is at the top front edge of the transmission tunnel just before the floor make a vertical climb. There was 1 tiny drop of water trying to come out when I spotted it with the camera. I bent the coat hanger in to an arc and wiggled it in to the "duckbill" knocking loose the crusty stuff between the 2 flaps and HOORAY! 12 ounces of water came pouring out.
No problems since. It has been a month now. I hope my experience helps the rest of you.
I tried the "close the dash vents" idea, but no results.
I then installed the secondary drain tube as described in other posts. When I drilled the hole in the evap box, about 6 ounces of water spilled out. I installed the fittings and ran the tube, but about a day later, more water! I will tell you that the evap core is not very close to where the other members recommend drilling the hole. With common sense and restraint, there is little danger of drilling too far.
So.....what was the fix? I went to Harbor Freight and purchased the $99 boroscope camera and used a wire coat hanger. I have access to a car ift, but a floor jack and safety stands should do the trick if you are comfortable with those kinds of tools.
The dealership emailed me a picture of where the "duckbill" was and what it looks like. It is at the top front edge of the transmission tunnel just before the floor make a vertical climb. There was 1 tiny drop of water trying to come out when I spotted it with the camera. I bent the coat hanger in to an arc and wiggled it in to the "duckbill" knocking loose the crusty stuff between the 2 flaps and HOORAY! 12 ounces of water came pouring out.
No problems since. It has been a month now. I hope my experience helps the rest of you.
The following 3 users liked this post by SynySTR:
#90
08-25-2014, 06:19 PM
Veteran Member
#91
08-25-2014, 06:37 PM
I really intended on doing that, but I would have needed 3 hands. I felt what it must be like to be a surgeon.
I slid the scope up from the driver's side about mid way of the bell housing of the tranny. The duck bill is faded black plastic. It reminded me of the mouth piece of a saxaphone. It points straight down. There is a hole cut in the floor/transmission heatshield to accomodate it. It seems like a section of 5/8" plastic tubing was heat moulded flat and almost shut.
The good news...It only took about 3 tries of different angles with that camera to find it. About 2 minutes of searching.
I slid the scope up from the driver's side about mid way of the bell housing of the tranny. The duck bill is faded black plastic. It reminded me of the mouth piece of a saxaphone. It points straight down. There is a hole cut in the floor/transmission heatshield to accomodate it. It seems like a section of 5/8" plastic tubing was heat moulded flat and almost shut.
The good news...It only took about 3 tries of different angles with that camera to find it. About 2 minutes of searching.
#92
08-25-2014, 06:43 PM
Again, very close to the firewall, but still on the top section of the transmission tunnel. About 5-6 inches rearward of the verticle firewall. Top center.
Another perspective would be about 12 inches directly forward from the shifter pole. The would be no way to get to it from the inside without removing the entire dash and a/c system though.
Another perspective would be about 12 inches directly forward from the shifter pole. The would be no way to get to it from the inside without removing the entire dash and a/c system though.
#93
08-26-2014, 12:02 PM
Hey SynySTR,
Thanks for the great info. I am the guy who posted the "fix" by adding an additional drain tube( originally suggested by Hawaii). Like you I just posted that I am still getting water in the pass. footwell. I tried your idea with my brothers little video camera but I tried it from the engine compartment. I think you are suggesting it works better from underneath the car?? How did you manage to hold the camera and use your coat hanger tool??
Thanks for the great info. I am the guy who posted the "fix" by adding an additional drain tube( originally suggested by Hawaii). Like you I just posted that I am still getting water in the pass. footwell. I tried your idea with my brothers little video camera but I tried it from the engine compartment. I think you are suggesting it works better from underneath the car?? How did you manage to hold the camera and use your coat hanger tool??
#94
08-26-2014, 02:49 PM
I'm not sure I could do it again from the top side of the car even after knowing exactly what I was looking for. Coming at it from underneath on the drivers side of the tranny seems like the only was as far as I can tell.
The camera I purchased is easily held in 1 hand Inspection Camera - Save on this Digital Inspection Camera and a metal coat hanger in the other.
At first I tried to use the end of the camera to break open the flaps on the "duck bill" , but the lens is too large in diameter.
The camera I purchased is easily held in 1 hand Inspection Camera - Save on this Digital Inspection Camera and a metal coat hanger in the other.
At first I tried to use the end of the camera to break open the flaps on the "duck bill" , but the lens is too large in diameter.
#95
08-26-2014, 03:07 PM
At the risk of random ramblings, a few more thoughts popped in to my head.
When you get under the car you will see a heat shield that is sort of sandwiched between the floor and transmission. It obviously deflects heat from the tranny coming in to the cabin. I kept the camera and coat hanger between the tranny and shield. I did not try to sneak between the shield and floor. Too tight. There is a hole in the shield about an inch in diameter where the "duck bill" is able to drip the water out.
I also wanted to state why this happens. It is simply hard water deposits that crust the flaps together. After a period of time it may come back. The vent idea every now and again may help.
The dealership fix where they replace the entire "duck bill" is probably a permanent repair. I dont want to downplay what they are doing. It is not an easy repair for them.
When you get under the car you will see a heat shield that is sort of sandwiched between the floor and transmission. It obviously deflects heat from the tranny coming in to the cabin. I kept the camera and coat hanger between the tranny and shield. I did not try to sneak between the shield and floor. Too tight. There is a hole in the shield about an inch in diameter where the "duck bill" is able to drip the water out.
I also wanted to state why this happens. It is simply hard water deposits that crust the flaps together. After a period of time it may come back. The vent idea every now and again may help.
The dealership fix where they replace the entire "duck bill" is probably a permanent repair. I dont want to downplay what they are doing. It is not an easy repair for them.
#96
08-27-2014, 07:08 AM
Senior Member
I really didn't want to install the secondary drain on my car but I did because I was in a pinch. I looked at the lowest point in the housing and installed my drain. So it's not quite where everyone else installs it. You can easily tell where it is and if you have trouble, you can remove the blower motor module/resistor to tell. I haven't had any trouble with it since. Good luck
#97
08-28-2014, 05:24 PM
Hey SynySTR,
Thanks for the great info. I am the guy who posted the "fix" by adding an additional drain tube( originally suggested by Hawaii). Like you I just posted that I am still getting water in the pass. footwell. I tried your idea with my brothers little video camera but I tried it from the engine compartment. I think you are suggesting it works better from underneath the car?? How did you manage to hold the camera and use your coat hanger tool??
Thanks for the great info. I am the guy who posted the "fix" by adding an additional drain tube( originally suggested by Hawaii). Like you I just posted that I am still getting water in the pass. footwell. I tried your idea with my brothers little video camera but I tried it from the engine compartment. I think you are suggesting it works better from underneath the car?? How did you manage to hold the camera and use your coat hanger tool??
If so - you're probably the most qualified person on here to do this kind of finicky, precise manipulation in a dark restricted space !
I may have to do this procedure soon: I've been expecting the problem, caught it soon, and followed your tutorial to install the auxiliary drainage tube. Seems to be working so far......
I look forward to your thoughts on a suitable flexible remote cutting tool to trim the duckbill once you've taken a look at the Patient.
Jeremy
#98
09-01-2014, 05:16 PM
So the whole reason I signed up as a new member today was to post on this topic.
I tried the "close the dash vents" idea, but no results.
I then installed the secondary drain tube as described in other posts. When I drilled the hole in the evap box, about 6 ounces of water spilled out. I installed the fittings and ran the tube, but about a day later, more water! I will tell you that the evap core is not very close to where the other members recommend drilling the hole. With common sense and restraint, there is little danger of drilling too far.
So.....what was the fix? I went to Harbor Freight and purchased the $99 boroscope camera and used a wire coat hanger. I have access to a car ift, but a floor jack and safety stands should do the trick if you are comfortable with those kinds of tools.
The dealership emailed me a picture of where the "duckbill" was and what it looks like. It is at the top front edge of the transmission tunnel just before the floor make a vertical climb. There was 1 tiny drop of water trying to come out when I spotted it with the camera. I bent the coat hanger in to an arc and wiggled it in to the "duckbill" knocking loose the crusty stuff between the 2 flaps and HOORAY! 12 ounces of water came pouring out.
No problems since. It has been a month now. I hope my experience helps the rest of you.
I tried the "close the dash vents" idea, but no results.
I then installed the secondary drain tube as described in other posts. When I drilled the hole in the evap box, about 6 ounces of water spilled out. I installed the fittings and ran the tube, but about a day later, more water! I will tell you that the evap core is not very close to where the other members recommend drilling the hole. With common sense and restraint, there is little danger of drilling too far.
So.....what was the fix? I went to Harbor Freight and purchased the $99 boroscope camera and used a wire coat hanger. I have access to a car ift, but a floor jack and safety stands should do the trick if you are comfortable with those kinds of tools.
The dealership emailed me a picture of where the "duckbill" was and what it looks like. It is at the top front edge of the transmission tunnel just before the floor make a vertical climb. There was 1 tiny drop of water trying to come out when I spotted it with the camera. I bent the coat hanger in to an arc and wiggled it in to the "duckbill" knocking loose the crusty stuff between the 2 flaps and HOORAY! 12 ounces of water came pouring out.
No problems since. It has been a month now. I hope my experience helps the rest of you.
I have the exact same issue and following Denver & Hawaii's tips tried the same secondary Drain Bypass surgery with no success, too much water and too small a hole. I also about 2 months ago purchased a bore scope from harbor freight and using the mirror attachment was able to see the drain opening above the trans from the top passenger side of the engine. I was unsuccessful in accessing it from the topside, so I am looking forward to trying again from underneath. Since you had luck in not only seeing the duckbill, but also hitting it with the coat hanger, do you think the rubber was pliable enough to cut from that position? Like with with a filed/sharpened end of an engine oil dip stick? If nothing else than to shred that duck bill so that there is only shredded material left that would not impede water no matter if the rubber was sticky or gunked up? I have already invested in a new blower motor,control module, and bore camera, as well as 2k page XK Service manual (JagDocs.Com it is a searchable Downloaded PDF file that is awesome!) So I am out for a final solution to this problem short of $1200 to the Jag Dealership. One of their techs mentioned lowering the trans to gain a couple of inches for the top of engine approach, but looking thru the manual and learning how that is done, not a big fan of that one since I don't have access to a lift.
THANKS!
#99
09-02-2014, 02:14 AM
Senior Member
