Kudos for clevername certainly needs to be withdrawn at this point.

I'm in a panic at the moment realizing I have provided incorrect information, and don't have Interstate tech support to call (closed for the evening)

Here is my dilemma: The MTP-49/H8A was in fact given to me by IB support (verbally - grrrr), and I was clearly told the "A" was the AGM designator for the battery (I was after all asking for the AGM equivalent to the 93 series battery).

Happily I ordered my battery, it arrived, and I noted the "A" was missing, but the letters "AGM" clearly marked. Right size(hair taller), terminals, etc, so i tossed her in and went on my merry way.

As I got to reading posts here after my purchase, I became very concerned about conflicting comments with vent tubes, and decided to double checked a photo of my new battery......Arrrggggghh

I in fact did not get an MPT, but an MP5-49/H8. (Looking for the Receipt now to see what it says.... having trouble finding it.)

But missing the T vs the 5, means I have messed over several people for which I profoundly sorry. I stand clearly at fault.
I'll call Interstate again tomorrow and ask again about the A suffix, but my sinking gut tells me I let some people down.

amcdonal86 and tflan. Contact me via pm. I'd like to find a way to make this right by you if I can.

I'll post a follow up tomorrow after I call Interstate again.

Vince

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by amcdonal86

... After replacing the battery, the car started right up, but was running extremely rough. Idle was cycling up and down by 1000 rpm in a cyclical fashion, and when I put it in drive the first time it almost stalled. I think this is because it is relearning everything as all the adaptations are cleared. ...

You are correct - see the Owner's Handbook explanation, below.

Does anyone know if you can retain all the presets and eliminate the need to relearn everything by hooking up a battery maintainer/charger (BatteryMinder, BatteryTender, etc.) to the Remote Battery Terminals before you remove the old battery? This is not addressed in the Owner's Handbook. Any risk of damaging any electrical system if you do so?

The Owner's Handbood states:
Effects of battery disconnection
After the battery is reconnected:
• Reset the electric parking brake.
• Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function.
• The trip computer will lose all recorded trip data and all trip functions will be reset to zero. The vehicle total odometer reading is retained.
• If the battery is disconnected for more than 72 hours the radio preset channels will need to be reset.
• Reset the clock to the correct time.
• Recalibrate the seat memory positions.

The engine electronic control system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost. On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more while the control system re-adapts.

When the battery is disconnected and then reconnected, the security system immediately returns to the state that it was before the battery was disconnected.

Note: Ensure that the Jaguar Smart Key is available to disarm the system when reconnecting the battery. Either press the unlock button on the Smart Key or press the engine START/STOP button.

WARNINGS
Ensure that the charger used is of the correct type and rating for the battery. Using an unsuitable charger may damage the battery, and could cause the battery to explode. Always charge the battery in a well ventilated area away from any naked flames, sparks or other ignition sources. During charging the battery can produce a highly explosive and flammable gas.

CAUTIONS

The battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle before charging. Failure to do so could result in damage to the vehicle's electrical system. Always follow the instructions supplied with the battery charger. Failure to do so may result in damage to the battery.






Stuart

 

CleverName, it's no problem at all. In my case, it's not your fault, it's the fault of the shop that sold me the battery. I even asked the guy if it was a sealed battery and he said yes! Instead they gave me an MTP49-H8 instead of an H8A.

Why is it that Interstate has such a shady network of battery dealers? Another shop I had called earlier and he said he could get me an H8A in a couple days, but he practically refused to sell it to me when he found out I had a Jaguar XKR, and that Interstate listed the MTP93.

That being said, I think I'll keep the battery. I do drive the car pretty often and I do lock the doors and keep the keys more than 20 feet away! Hopefully it will last for at least 2-3 years. I can commiserate with the idea of replacing a battery on my baby that often!

CleverName, your instructions for installation are still spot on!

 

These cars cycle the batteries so much given the electronics load...the lead-acid battery can't handle that kind of cycling as much. I don't think you will get 2 years...maybe 14 months until you reach 75% capacity? At that point the electrical gremlins may resurface...

In a years time if you start experiencing electrical gremlins you should start with a load test on the battery...

 

Well, at least I'll know the source of my electrical gremlins! Next time I buy a battery, I will be wiser--now that I know the H8 is not at all the same as the H8A!

 

Vince, you can make it right by buying me a new battery. Lol!

The one I bought IS an MTP 49h8a. At the price, even with the old battery credit, it had better be. I dealt with Tony at Buckhead Performance (a sponsor here) who is very knowledgeable as well as being an Interstate distributor.

He had spoken directly with Interstate about the the return warranty for the old battery plus to ensure that the MTP 49h8a was a viable alternative to the MTP93 which was replaced. Other than being AGM the h8a is 900 CCA v. 750 CCA for the 93.

For you folks in the Atlanta area I would highly recommend Buckhead Performance. They are reasonably priced (certainly cheaper than a dealer) and "gots their sierra together."

Best,

 

OK, so I am back on quazi solid ground.... All my data is still relevent and accurate except I missed the MT5 on my second post.

Here is the answer from Interstate:
Both MTP-49/H8A and MT5-49/H8 are the same exact battery.
Both are AGM, and the "A" does in fact represent "AGM". So....... as long as you used the number I quoted in post 21, your good.

The MT5-49/H8 is just a newer part number as of a few months ago...

I'm breathing a tad better now, as long as you ordered the A suffix, you got an AGM. No A suffix, you got a standard wet cell with vents.


Vince

 

I will pick up my Interstate Battery MTP-49/H8A on Monday. Part of the confusion for some might be that Interstate has redesignated the name to MT5, but the dealer order sheet still has MTP. I recommend you make sure they order the H8A and include in the comments the MT5 number and that customer wants the dry cell.

My triple black 07 XK convertible is absolutely dead in the water right now. I had it off the trickle charger for 3 weeks and the battery is beyond recovery.

 

I'm glad all worked out...
I was so mad at myself for not seeing the MT5 designator...... but in the end, the information I initially provided was still good (you have no idea how terrified I was thinking I had unknowingly mislead people into spending their money on the wrong product!)
I was relieved that the H8A number was proven correct all along...

I chose to go with the AGM for one main reason.... It has the ability so store its charge for a significantly longer than a standard wet cell. After 6 months of storage, it can still have 80% of its capacity available where wet cells can fall off to something like under 50%.

Of course, our cats seem to like chewing on batteries when left unattended (Bad kitty!) so I can only hope the investment in the AGM proves its value.

My MTP-93 was less than a year and a half old and I had already had the car fail to start 3 times till I charged it. - frustrating

If you paid for an AGM, I would certainly consider getting it...

Vince

 

thanks.

 

I pulled my battery as described by the clear directions earlier. One thing I noticed is that I had a white plug that was not connected to anything. It is shown with the question mark in the attached photo. Where does it get plugged in? Thanks in advance. There is a spot between the green wrapped cable and yellow plug below the DVD slot and there is a slot up in the top unit next to the blue wrapped cable.

Kyle

 

I can't see your photo, but I, too, had a white plug not connected to anything. Don't worry about it!

 

I can see your photo - and I also have that 'spare' connector.
Out of curiosity, I'm going to research it in the Electrical Guide I downloaded.
If I find out anything, I'll post here.

Also - in the photo I think your Nav DVD player is on the 'unlock' position ??
If you slide it to 'lock' it raises a dust-shield up in the slot, and also prevents 'premature ejection' (!!) of the DVD. Never a good thing !

Jeremy

 

Now that I'm not reading your post on the toilet, I can see that we indeed have the same unused white connector!

 

When dealing with parts such as tires, batteries and the like where you have done your research and know exactly what you want, the easiest way to avoid arguments with the clerk is to just not answer any questions about the application.

 

I did not think it possible to have too much information on this forum but now I'll need to reconsider that.

 

Well, a browse thru the 'XK Electrical Guide' seems to indicate this connector is for the VICS system antenna. This appears to be a Japan-only traffic data system - similar to the RDS system in the US, but using different frequencies.
If so, it shouldn't be connected outside of Japan...

Incidentally, that Electrical Guide is a scary document: there's 76 pages of wiring diagrams in there......

Jeremy

 

Congrats to JeremyB on the plug ID. I have the same diagrams and couldn't come up with an answer for the life of me.

I still can't figure out why the harness branch that two wire plug is a part of.....comes from the left side of the trunk only to be stored on a bracket on the Nav unit, then route back to the left side of the trunk.

I still can't figure out what those NR or brown/red wires in that branch of the harness do in life. Seems there are two NR coming into the plug that gets stowed on the bracket and they are coupled to two NR wires leaving that connector and going back to the left side of the trunk area.

Or it could be two NO or brown/orange wires instead of NR. Just curious.
Gotta remember to replace my five yr old battery in the near future before it's too late.

 

Seems like my electrical problems are coming back after I was away for a few days. My Jaguar screen wouldn't turn off. Then on another drive, if I turned on the seat heaters, after 20 minutes or so the downshift revmatching wouldn't work. Restarting the vehicle would fix this temporarily, but the problem would return.

When the battery was brand new (2 weeks ago), the logo screen would flash quickly before turning to the home screen. Over the last 2 weeks, this screen would stay on longer and longer until my electrical problems returned.

Do you think this is because the MTP49H8 is a bad battery choice, or is something wrong with my alternator?

 

>>
electrical problems are coming back after I was away for a few days
<<
Could that be a clue - was the car unused (and locked !) during those days ??
Its possible you have a current drain and/or weak battery that pulled the voltage down ??
You could try measuring the voltage, but you need an accurate VOM or voltmeter. A good fully charged lead acid battery is 12.8V with no load but you need to disconnect it to read that accurately.
Realistically, you should see 12.3/12/4V when its connected.

There's a procedure in Section 414 of the Workshop manual to measure Quiescent current by connecting an ammeter in-line. Should be <35mA
That might be worth doing ??

Good Luck