Like the title says. I was on the receiving end of a chipped windshield while test driving my car following a transmission fluid change.

The new windshield is coming Friday but they cam and pulled the old one out for me yesterday. I wanted to take advantage of stapling the dash leather. I didn't have an issue with it pulling away, but it was a Florida car so I thought what the heck.

Being very gentle, the vents just came out in pieces. (again, hot Florida sun). Can't but em new, so I thought I'd ask if anyone has a 3d printer that you could CAD and print one out?

Barring that, does anyone have a specific vendor they could recommend. My problem is with mine in pieces, I can't send them something to create on their CAD software.

 

I have 3D printer, but no CAD skills. Also mine broke up when I pulled the dash. I just trimmed mine with a dremel to clean up the jagged edges and they look fine unless you stare really close.

 

Thanks aj. So your printer is large enough to print out the vent (I think roughly 14") If you could, perhaps someone else on the forum has the CAD software and could create the image.

Also, what would you charge?

 

Here in Texas, we have the same issue. I just searched Ebay religiously and within a few weeks a set of good used defrost vents for my 308 showed up for sale in cloudy, rainy Seattle, Washington. $35. Purchase a set and then search the web for your closest "Makerspace" probably at a larger city library or local junior college. There you should find a 3d scanner and printer and maybe somebody to give very basic instruction. Share the scanned file of it with someone who has CAD skills and willing to help prepare a 3d file for printing, go back to the library to print your prototype(s), test fit, and then upload your finished model to Shapeways for a real professional printed part. Finally post back for everybody how to order a copy for themselves.

 

You cannot purchase a set. That's the problem. They are sold as part of the entire dash only. Junkyards won't part them out either for the same reason. Mine are in too rough a shape to accurately scan, but I appreciate the suggestions.

 

I would have to print them in two pieces and glue them together. If someone can CAD them up I'll be happy to print them.

I had been paying the high school kid across the street to do solid works, but he's off at college now.

 

I had the same concern, but just kept watching Ebay and a set eventually turned up.

 

There's a set (if I read your post correctly) on UK ebay. Maybe contact the seller to see if they'll post to the US?

JAGUAR XK X150 CENTRE DASHBOARD AIR VENTS 2007 - 2014 | eBay

 

Thanks Mickyboy but I'm talking about the defroster vents that run the length of the windshield.

 

Sean,
I have Solidworks and can model almost anything. If you will send me a picture of the vent I will see how difficult it is to model and print.

I don't have an XK yet (but will within a month or so) or I would look at mine. If I am going to make the model I will need a vent to measure as well. When done with the model I would post it for anyone to use.

Dave Christensen
Tucson, AZ
1965 Etype OTS
1991 XJS Convertible
2013 XJ
TBD X150

 

I just looked at the dash vents on my XJ. If the XK vents are anything like the XJ vents, I think they are TOO big to get a good 3D print. Especially in the heat, a 3D print that big will look like a potato chip before too long.

Dave Christensen
Tucson, AX
1965 Etype OTS
1991 XJS Convertible
2013 XJ

 

The front vents are in sections. The longest sections (and the ones that break apart) run about 14 inches long and about 1 1/2 wide. Is that too big to print out?

 

A 6" X 6" platten is the largest printer that I have access to. I am sure there are larger ones. If you get them printed I think they will probably warp, badly, in the sun.

Dave Christensen
Tucson, AZ
1965 Etype OTS
1991 XJS Covertible
2013 XJ

 

I think with the right material, they would be fine as OEM are plastic. They will certainly turn brittle over time. I can snap some photos but I know some pieces are gone from mine. I believe the PO may have removed them.

If I post them, can you let me know if you can model them? I can chase printing them locally. Would you need both sides or will one do and you can invert the other side? I ask because one is in better shape than the other.

Also, the collective here can see what's missing from mine if I post a photo.

 

Sean,
Post a photo, with a ruler or something in the picture so that I get an idea of the size, and I will see if I think I can model it. I can mirror one side to make the other side.

To actually make a CAD model I will need a real part to measure. At least the outside area that mates with the dash.

The problem with warpage is not so much the plastic material but the way the part is formed. I am simplifying here but the properties of an injection molded part are pretty uniform. Molten plastic flows into the mold and solidifies at about the same rate. With a well designed part there are not many stresses in the part after it cools. A 3D printed part is anything but uniform. It is made up of many thin filaments of plastic that are layered on each other. The filaments are not completely joined into a solid mass. The material on the heated platen cools more slowly than material away from the platen. Thick areas cool more slowly than thin areas. All these non-uniformities leave stresses in the part. When a plastic part gets warm or hot it will stress relieve itself and warp. My experience with printed parts is this is a big problem with larger parts.

Lets take this one step at a time. Send or post some pictures and I will see how big of a modeling job it is. Also send a picture of the dash, with the vent removed, so I can see what the mating surface looks like. If I think I can do a good job of modeling I will need a sample vent to measure for the model.

Dave Christensen

 

Ok Dave, thanks for the reply and helping me understand the process. Clearly I am a neophyte.
I will take pictures of my actual part this weekend with specific dimensions.

In the interim, here are some pics taken from an eBay item for sale as well as some of tberg's pics when he had his dash restored.

Basically each side of the dash has 3 separate parts. In pic 1, the red arrow is the one I'm interested in. That piece is a bit over 14" long

Note the dash bolt cover is a smaller part and in the pics, the left one is missing.

In tberg's pics you'll see what it looks like without the vents. Each side is held against the leather and they rest on the grate. They may have snapped into something at one point by mine just lay tightly against the leather.

This is to give you an idea. As noted, I will pull one, see if I can find some graph paper and snap some pics/measurements.

If at anytime you think it's not doable or cost effective or wouldn't hold up, let me know and I'll surrender.

Thanks David. I really appreciate it.

 

It does not look that hard to model. I do need accurate dimensions. Even a broken part may work. The large radii will be the hardest and most critical.

Is the top flat or curved?

Dave Christensen

 

Looking at this from a machinist's perspective, it's going to be a bear to duplicate. What I'd consider is getting some tracing paper, scribing a 1" grid across it, trimming the front to fit the windshield, taping it in place and then using your finger with charcoal or pencil lead on the tip to 'trace' out the opening by the 'rubbing' process (like you do grave stones). This will give you a fairly accurate 2D representation of the part. You can then use a pair of caliper to measure the opening at depth and also how much overhang you have to cover the top curve.

If you can remove one of the other sections it should give you a decent representative of what you need for material thickness and any other profiles. You'll need a couple cross sections and also the width and spacing of the vent grids. Pictures are nice but you really need good data to render a model that will actually fit once complete. It's difficult to do but needed.

I almost wonder if another process wouldn't be better, laminate or FRP style panel that could be hand cut and fitted, then the vertical drops glued / fused in place. Some times it's simpler to think outside the box vs. trying to replicate the exact part.

Good luck and keep thinking about it.

 

Top surface is flat as I believe the bottom is too. I will get some graph paper this weekend, attempt to pull one piece out and once out, start measuring. I will also measure the openings in the dash to confirm.

 

Thanks. The picture were simply to provide Dave with context as he hasn't purchased his XK yet. I know more detailed measurements are necessary

I've thought about injection molding, carbon fiber, Fiber reinforced panels, (laminate is a new one). All share the same issue. Custom made = cost prohibitive.

I've tried contacting JLR to find out who makes the part to see if I can buy from them directly. No response. Jaguar only sells them with the dash.

Please keep the ideas coming.

My world won't end if this isn't doable and I'm picking nits, but anyone who's attempted dash repairs know these parts are as brittle as potato chips so we're all going to encounter it sooner or later.