Each hub assembly has an inside and outside bearing. "Usually" a mechanic would just replace the hub assembly and not just the bearings. The replacement hubs have the ABS sensor included. Also the best way to check the bearings assuming when you rock the tires and it feels tight is to remove the brake caliper and then spin the wheel. This takes the pad friction out of the equation.

 

Ok so it looks like your frustration (understandable) is convincing you to throw money at the problem (not good). You have two new tires in the front. I know they are a different size than the rear but eliminate the tires by swapping front to rear long enough for a test-drive. If the "pulsing noise is coming from the same place, it's not the tires.

There should be no play in a bearing. You lift the car and grab the wheel @ 6 and 12 o'clock. If there's play, it's likely a bad bearing. Do the same with all the wheels so you get the sense and understand play. If you have one bad bearing and you check all four wheels for bearing play, is will stand out.

Don't focus on the fact that a bearing shouldn't be bad at such low mileage. You're right, they shouldn't, but the can and do. It's rare so it's the last thing we think of.

I don't know why your mechanic said it's best to change the tires out first if he thought is was a wheel bearing. Not a good sign if they don't know, unless you're pushing back on their assessment that you may have a bad wheel bearing.

What, if any play do the bushings have? How are the tie rods, the CV joints? Shock mounts?

 

As you've had the alignment, wheel balance, front tire changed, tested the high speed in neutral (eliminating the tranny mounts), you are primarily left with

Wheel Bearings
CV joints (and this would be even less common than the bearing)

BTW I think you asked you needed to change both hubs or both bearings if you go that route. No to both hubs, yes to both bearings and it's less expensive in terms of labor to just change the hub.

Lastly, it's cheap enough to find another shop, just to get a second opinion.

 

Great advice Sean! Thanks for your input. I think they thought tires because of two things, 1) mileage is only 19k and 2) the tyres were 'blocked' or 'castellated' prob due to been run on incorrect geometry. I did check for play on the bearings and the drivers did have a very tiny movement I think. Everything else seems tight as far as I can see! I have a Video of them spinning but can't seem to upload to here? Had two independent reviews but both garages unwilling to cover cost if not solved!! That only leaves me with going to main dealer which will be expensive.

 

OK so a couple of quick checks on the bearings. You think you feel play in the drivers side front.

Can you isolate the pulsing noise to the drivers side from inside the cabin?
Can you have someone else drive and you listen from the passenger side?

You can swap tires Front to back just for a final check. Then have the shop confirm the CV joints are ok. Also have them confirm the bearing play. They do it enough to know for sure.

Try some light swerving as well, bearings usually get louder when you swerve or turn, but not always at the start of wearing out.

What is the point of the spinning the wheels video? Are you hearing something while spinning the wheels?

FYI you can upload AVI or MOV files only or load to Youtube, make public and then post the link.

 

ive tried swerving a little and marginal difference.
When I spin wheels fast I can hear a bearing type noise as well as the expected rub on pads sound. As suggested, I could remove the caliper but should it then be very quiet? It is louder that I thought . Obviously I can't spin the rears due to diff. The garage has looked at the bearings and said there is slight play on drivers side but they were not sure if that was causing the pulsing vibration sound but suspected! Good eh! I will try and swap rear wheels with front then.

 

yeah I would try the swap.

It would be difficult to replicate pulsing noise by spinning the wheels. You're basically listening for rubbing sounds, then.

Rather than remove the calipers, just pull the pads and put the wheels back on. It will give you a rough idea but with no weight bearing, may be futile. At least it's free to try.

 

If it does turn out to be wheel bearings, what do people recommend make wise in the UK? Can see a few I've not heard of so will want to stay clear of any cheap rubbish. What about *** if they do them?
ive just had a rediculous price for changing one side with a genuine part, near £500 just for one side with specialist, not even main dealer!!! OMG

 

OK I'm not from the UK and *** has a bit of a different meaning here in the U.S. :-)

If you're buying the part, Moog # 513327 is available @ Rock auto for £89.63. Labor is a different story. Here in the U.S., you bring the part they won't warranty the part but will still warranty their work. Some won't warranty anything unless they supply the part.

 

Ha ha, yes it's the same meaning here in the UK!
When it comes down to makes of bearings, haven't got a clue as never heard of most of the makes. Prob the same here with me supplying the part and won't take responsibility for it if goes wrong. Will have to see what they can offer and price. Like most things, prob only a years guarantee anyway.
Will keep you all posted!

 

I've now got a free vehicle health check booked in for fri afternoon with jaguar main dealers as worth a shot so will keep you posted.
Also, in told the KOYO complete hub assy including bearing and abs sensor is a better option for £179. Made in Japan and heard good reputation. Anyone used these?

 

*** , Moog , Timkin , SKF are just a few but seem to be the major ones.

 

Cheers, I think Timkin are now joined with the KOYO ones I'm looking at. I'm also told Toyo do the bearings on the Typhoon Fighter jet wheels!

 

Eventful w/e guys!
It went into jaguar main dealers on Friday and although they thought it was bearings, they couldn't say for certain until stripped down and couldn't find any 'play'!
they wanted £1200 to change both hubs!

Anyway, I opted to buy two new hubs from somewhere else and fit myself. Wasn't easy as they were seized into the strut with corrosion and two of the bolts were torx type and you have to take off the anti roll bar drop link.
It has fixed the problem!
Both now spin nice and quiet and on inspection behind the old covers, the grease was all dried up and in hard lumps so the bearings were struggling.

A fraction of the cost anyway

While it was at the dealers, I asked about steering wheel creak and it needs a new clock spring fitting and they quoted £200. Any advice on that? Airbag has to come off so prob can't do myself.

Cheers guys for all the help, got there in the end!

 

Glad to hear you resolved this. Nice work.

Regarding clock spring. Here's an unnecessarily belligerent thread on the subject. It has a couple of PDF's attached for instructions. Ultimately it's up to you to tackle the job. There's absolutely no shame in avoiding an airbag mishap if you're not confident in your ability to disarm it, and it's likely a Takata airbag, so you have that to consider.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-110868/

 

Hey thanks for that Sean! One job ticked off the list! I'll look into the clock spring then. Had a quick search for the part for guide of cost but not a lot comes up so poss have to get from main *******s ... sorry dealers?

 

Part # is c2p20958

 

Thats great! Thanks Sean

 

Decided to let the main dealer replace the clock spring. Didn't seem to bad at £200 since I'd have to pay about £130 for the part myself! Prob could take the airbag off but need a special tool also.

 

Agreed. Does that get your Jag back to your specifications then?