Engine Swap 99 XJ8 4L What engines will swap?
#1
Engine Swap 99 XJ8 4L What engines will swap?
I have 99 xj8 4l bad cyl. low compression.
I may have found a 01 4l which has had bottom end rebuilt and heads completely reworked. The heads are not assembled. All parts are there.
Couple of questions:
1. What am I looking at to assemble the heads?
2. What info do I need to get in order to know if this enghine is compatible?
3. What is fair $ for this rebuilt engine?
4. How much can I expect to pay to have it installed?
Enough questions? Sorry for the ramble on.
Any insite is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mark Isham
99 xj8 4l
Looks nice sittin in my garage!!
I may have found a 01 4l which has had bottom end rebuilt and heads completely reworked. The heads are not assembled. All parts are there.
Couple of questions:
1. What am I looking at to assemble the heads?
2. What info do I need to get in order to know if this enghine is compatible?
3. What is fair $ for this rebuilt engine?
4. How much can I expect to pay to have it installed?
Enough questions? Sorry for the ramble on.
Any insite is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mark Isham
99 xj8 4l
Looks nice sittin in my garage!!
#2
The following link can be found in the FAQ Sticky above: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...d.php?p=177881
It discusses this often asked question.
A fair price is what you and seller agree on. A known good used engine can be found for $2500 - 3000. Lots of unknowns on a box of parts with verbal descriptions of condition.
It discusses this often asked question.
A fair price is what you and seller agree on. A known good used engine can be found for $2500 - 3000. Lots of unknowns on a box of parts with verbal descriptions of condition.
#3
I am along the same lines at TP, I believe. I wouldn't be dealing with the box of parts or a disassembled/rebuilt engine. Even running a shop I wouldn't go that route. There are just too many examples out there of complete engines for sale and ready to drop in.
The trap in which you'll become ensnared is certain death by thousands of dollars on rebuild parts such as gasket sets, sensors, etc. etc. In the end, you'll pay far less with a complete used dropin unit.
Best to you regardless of which direction you choose to travel.
The trap in which you'll become ensnared is certain death by thousands of dollars on rebuild parts such as gasket sets, sensors, etc. etc. In the end, you'll pay far less with a complete used dropin unit.
Best to you regardless of which direction you choose to travel.
#4
used engine
The motor has had lower end rebuilt by carquest in Talahassee.
The head is dis assembled. All the componants are there.
I can buy it for 500.00.
I plan to do the engine change myself.
I'm not comfortable with the head reassembly.
What can I expect to pay a shop to assemble the head?
Here are the numbers off the engine:
1st row of numbers: 991210
2nd row: 22222212
3rd row: 2309
Thanks
Mark
The head is dis assembled. All the componants are there.
I can buy it for 500.00.
I plan to do the engine change myself.
I'm not comfortable with the head reassembly.
What can I expect to pay a shop to assemble the head?
Here are the numbers off the engine:
1st row of numbers: 991210
2nd row: 22222212
3rd row: 2309
Thanks
Mark
#5
I would be in the rebuild camp......It is all very well buying a complete engine and even getting some kind of warranty but you are taking a gamble you are fitting an engine that is in worse condition than the one you have just taken out.
If you can do the work yourself then you will save $000's, a head set is around $400, you can rebuild the heads on the bench and do all the gaps, which is a little time consuming. The collets are tiny and a bit fiddly to fit as the valves are very fine only a 5mm stem, it takes a good day to lap in both heads and gap up.
Whilst you are at it you could even port and polish the heads
But at least you know you have a good as new engine from the out set
Here's one I did earlier
If you can do the work yourself then you will save $000's, a head set is around $400, you can rebuild the heads on the bench and do all the gaps, which is a little time consuming. The collets are tiny and a bit fiddly to fit as the valves are very fine only a 5mm stem, it takes a good day to lap in both heads and gap up.
Whilst you are at it you could even port and polish the heads
But at least you know you have a good as new engine from the out set
Here's one I did earlier
Last edited by XKRacer; 10-15-2010 at 10:49 PM.
#6
Nice looking job!
Thanks for the info.
I can buy the engine for 500.00
All the parts are there for the head, Everything is stored in plastic containers. Very clearly marked. I will also have my existing engine to steal parts off if needed.
The lower end of this motor has been professionally rebuilt.
I may need a sensor or 2. I believe all of my existing sensors on original motor are working fine.
What sensors would you recommend replacing as the top end will be open anyway?
Also: I need to verify engine # to be sure of match:
Here is what he gave me:
1st row: 991210 year/month/day?
2nd row: 22222212 I have no idea?
3rd row: 2309 I have no idea?
Concerns:
I believe this motor is a nikosil. What concerns should I have?
Make sure it gets the right gas?
Right oil?
Will have upgraded timing chain tensioners.
Thanks
Mark Isham
Destin Fl
My car is a 99 xj8
I can buy the engine for 500.00
All the parts are there for the head, Everything is stored in plastic containers. Very clearly marked. I will also have my existing engine to steal parts off if needed.
The lower end of this motor has been professionally rebuilt.
I may need a sensor or 2. I believe all of my existing sensors on original motor are working fine.
What sensors would you recommend replacing as the top end will be open anyway?
Also: I need to verify engine # to be sure of match:
Here is what he gave me:
1st row: 991210 year/month/day?
2nd row: 22222212 I have no idea?
3rd row: 2309 I have no idea?
Concerns:
I believe this motor is a nikosil. What concerns should I have?
Make sure it gets the right gas?
Right oil?
Will have upgraded timing chain tensioners.
Thanks
Mark Isham
Destin Fl
My car is a 99 xj8
#7
The engine will be fine the 6 digit number you gave first of all represents when the engine was manufactured.
The first 2 digits are the year (99) the second 2 are the month (12=Dec) and the last the day (10th)
So the engine was produced on the 10th December 1999 In which case I would of thought it would be a steel lined engine as after August 99 I was led to beleive all engines were steel lined?
I would simply swap everything from your old engine over and not worry about replacing sensors as long as the usual things are done tensioners and water pump, then no worries.
The first 2 digits are the year (99) the second 2 are the month (12=Dec) and the last the day (10th)
So the engine was produced on the 10th December 1999 In which case I would of thought it would be a steel lined engine as after August 99 I was led to beleive all engines were steel lined?
I would simply swap everything from your old engine over and not worry about replacing sensors as long as the usual things are done tensioners and water pump, then no worries.
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#8
swap
That's the plan. Use as much off my existing as possible.
I'm not getting a bunch of codes with the existing engine othere than the # 3 misfire.
I think between my old and the new I should be in pretty good shape.
When finished it will be a complete rebuild.
I think for less than 1500 unless something goes very wrong. lol
I'll post pics as we go through the project.
Thanks
Mark
Destin Fl
I'm not getting a bunch of codes with the existing engine othere than the # 3 misfire.
I think between my old and the new I should be in pretty good shape.
When finished it will be a complete rebuild.
I think for less than 1500 unless something goes very wrong. lol
I'll post pics as we go through the project.
Thanks
Mark
Destin Fl
#9
Plan B
I did more checking on the engine.
It is an a27 mine is a26. This brings ecu and wire harness issues.
The motor does not have the gaskets for head assembly.
I have done a bit more research.
I believe the timing has jumped on my engine.
#3 cyl has 30psi and 1 cyl on opposite bank has 60 psi while the rest have 150psi.
I'm thinking rebuild the heads. Valve job new timing belt /tensioners etc..
I found a shop that will do it for 1500.00
Does that sound reasonable?
What can I buy rebuilt heads complete for?
Another option is to have Vet engine & trans for 3200.00
It is an a27 mine is a26. This brings ecu and wire harness issues.
The motor does not have the gaskets for head assembly.
I have done a bit more research.
I believe the timing has jumped on my engine.
#3 cyl has 30psi and 1 cyl on opposite bank has 60 psi while the rest have 150psi.
I'm thinking rebuild the heads. Valve job new timing belt /tensioners etc..
I found a shop that will do it for 1500.00
Does that sound reasonable?
What can I buy rebuilt heads complete for?
Another option is to have Vet engine & trans for 3200.00
#10
Personally I wouldn't worry about the different engine I have even fitted 4.2s into 4.0 ltr cars without any problem.
The later engine has different electrics but as long as you swap everything over this is not a problem, the only time you do get a problem is if you fit a late 4.2 with VVT
The 4.2s have digital 4 pin coil packs, the 4.0 are analogue, just swap them.
I am not sure why I am get ahead of myself talking 4.2s when you are thinking of doing a 4.0 but trust me it will fit and work fine.
I fitted only last week an original 4.0 car with a 4.4ltr bottom end from a Range Rover to a set of 4.2 heads and supercharger all working on 4.0 electrics, worked a treat.
The later engine has different electrics but as long as you swap everything over this is not a problem, the only time you do get a problem is if you fit a late 4.2 with VVT
The 4.2s have digital 4 pin coil packs, the 4.0 are analogue, just swap them.
I am not sure why I am get ahead of myself talking 4.2s when you are thinking of doing a 4.0 but trust me it will fit and work fine.
I fitted only last week an original 4.0 car with a 4.4ltr bottom end from a Range Rover to a set of 4.2 heads and supercharger all working on 4.0 electrics, worked a treat.
#11
Did you make any changes to the compression? The 4.4 block is a NA engine with 10.75:1 iirc (instead of the 9.1:1 for the SC versions).
#13
Be very careful with the rebuilt engine. The last time I checked, Jaguar did not make the graded bottom end bearings for these engines and they cannot be rebuilt. Do more checking to see if that has changed. I talked with the rebuilder at Coventry West about this and they confirmed the bearings were not available at that time (a year ago). If Ihad a noce car with a bad engine, I would go to an experienced Jag Specialist and get him to install a good used engine, and I am an experienced shade tree (ex-pro tech) guy. You are heading along a rocky road.
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