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1998 XK8 convertible top will not raise - RESOLVED

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  #41  
Old 01-26-2015, 08:54 PM
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From your various videos (especially your last two) it appears that the latch is your remaining issue. That is probably the very toughest bit of hydraulic movement the system has to operate given the short amount of room it has to so little leverage over such a short distance.

As an aside it has been mentioned on other similar threads that a manual up or down can throw off the timing of the system due to the various micro-switches. I know when I had to refill my reservoir (to the lines indicated and not to the top) that the first attempt to raise it automatically did NOT work. I had to raise it manually (as I had lowered it manually previously) and then lower it automatically before everything would synchronize again.


Since you've lubed everything and it seemed to improve to some extent I'm still inclined to think you're having a pump pressure issue.

The sequence should be when putting the top down that the rear quarter windows go down FIRST, then the latch begins to open up with the top beginning shortly afterwards with the latch being fully open just as the roof latch needs to clear it. The top continues to the fully down position, the latch closes and you should then hear the chime make a single tone. When the top goes back up again the two door windows should first drop about 1/2" and then the top starts to go up as the latch begins to open. By the time the top gets there the latch should be fully open so the latch can grab it as it starts to close and pull the top down the rest of the way. It may appear to stall for a moment or two as the latch starts to pull down and then latches the top over the last little bit. At that point you should hear a single chime followed by the side windows and the rear quarter windows come up to the fully closed position.

I write all that even though you probably already know it just so we're singing from the same hymnal as they once used to say.

It is possible at this point that several more up and down cycle will re0snch everything but if the latch problem should persist I'd be trying to find a way to test the pumps maximum output pressure as I think the problem is there at this point.
 
  #42  
Old 01-26-2015, 10:43 PM
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Did you clean the piston of the hydraulic latch?

Originally Posted by Tauni_XK8
I am uploading two new videos, TOP-DOWN and TOP-UP, check those out under XK Convertible Top folder on photobucket

On Top Down I have to wait till the latch pin is almost at the point of stopping then I can push pretty hard on the top and it opens, the top at that point Springs open.

On TOP DOWN If I dont slow the top operation by letting off the button it will close faster than the latch can open. The last one should be done uploading in 2 minutes

XK Convertible Top Photos by snwbrd63 | Photobucket
 
  #43  
Old 01-27-2015, 12:50 AM
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Gus, When it was at its farthest opening point I lubricated the small shaft I was able to see. is that what you are speaking of?

Tauni
 
  #44  
Old 01-27-2015, 08:47 AM
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I think! It is the shaft that is connected to the block that the hydraulic hoses are attached to.
Originally Posted by Tauni_XK8
Gus, When it was at its farthest opening point I lubricated the small shaft I was able to see. is that what you are speaking of?

Tauni
 
  #45  
Old 01-27-2015, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus
I think! It is the shaft that is connected to the block that the hydraulic hoses are attached to.
I only saw that the last couple of times back in there when I had a light on it. I used a dielectric grease to lubricate it on a q-tip to get back in there.
 
  #46  
Old 01-27-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tauni_XK8
I only saw that the last couple of times back in there when I had a light on it. I used a dielectric grease to lubricate it on a q-tip to get back in there.
Dielectric grease has its uses, but I don't think it's the best pick to lubricate moving parts.

A lithium or silicone grease maybe (I don't know what the seals are made of; it might influence what kind of grease to use.)
 
  #47  
Old 01-27-2015, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis07
Dielectric grease has its uses, but I don't think it's the best pick to lubricate moving parts.

A lithium or silicone grease maybe (I don't know what the seals are made of; it might influence what kind of grease to use.)
Here is what I used, I have some Liquid Wrench White Lithium.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1998 XK8 convertible top will not raise - RESOLVED-img_5992.jpg  
  #48  
Old 01-27-2015, 10:15 AM
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If you use WD40 it will clean and lubricate for now then you can finish it with a good silicone spray. The seals are rubber "O" ring and a neoprene seal for the pressure. I suspect that the one seal is dry and or dislodged spraying it is just a bandaid repair.
 
  #49  
Old 01-27-2015, 10:34 AM
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Thanks Gus, I just tried operating it again to Open and the Pin is back like it was moving only a short amount. Considerable force to get it to unlatch and then it wouldn't close again.
 
  #50  
Old 01-27-2015, 11:04 AM
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I purchased this is March of 2014, 76K, top worked fine so that is my starting point. I was just looking at the Top Down and noticed these marks, looks like at one time it showered, would you agree? Its not wet now, but you rub your finger on it and get a slightly oily finger tip. I have looked over all connections and see no leaks.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1998 XK8 convertible top will not raise - RESOLVED-img_5993.jpg   1998 XK8 convertible top will not raise - RESOLVED-img_5996.jpg   1998 XK8 convertible top will not raise - RESOLVED-img_5994.jpg  

Last edited by Tauni_XK8; 01-27-2015 at 11:07 AM.
  #51  
Old 01-28-2015, 08:13 AM
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UPDATE:
I wanted to update everyone who has been following this post. I spoke with Gus several times yesterday and he walked me through testing the system. The problem is with the latch not fully opening and once the top does open getting it to close is inoperable unless I release pressure off the system. We performed the following tasks to determine where the core problem may exist with the top in the down position.

1. Manually operate the latch to ensure it works without binding up, we noticed excessive force to operate the first time then it works effortlessly.

2. Gus then asked me to release the pressure off the system and remove the two pressure lines for the latch from the pump and check for any obstructions or particles blocking the hose.

3. Check the relays for Top Up and Top Down in the fuse box in the trunk.

4. Then Gus had me remove the negative terminal connection from the battery and short it to the positive cable for 30 seconds to reset the electronics system.

5. With the completion of 1-4 we tried to operate the top to close. The top latch started to open then returned to locked position.

6. Now Gus wanted to determine if the problem existed in the pump or the latch cylinder. To accomplish this I removed the Latch lines from the pump and placed in a container, this was done so oil wouldn't spray all over the trunk. He then had me manually operate the latch to see if excessive force was required to open the latch. The contention is if there is more force than normal required to open the latch that the latch cylinder was failing, if the latch opened effortlessly then the pump would potentially be the problem.

I had to use more force than normally required to open the latch manually. This gave us the pretense that the latch cylinder is where the problem more than likely exists.

I am going to have the cylinder rebuilt through a contact Gus has.

I want to take this opportunity to thank Gus for his continued help and support to troubleshoot this problem. Gus spent quite a bit of time on the phone from his day to help me. That is what makes this forum one of the best I have had the pleasure of interacting in.

Again, thank you Gus and I will update when I get the latch cylinder out and rebuilt.

Tauni
 
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  #52  
Old 01-28-2015, 02:53 PM
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At the present time we are going with the latch repair and will know for sure when the latch is reinstalled. This is still a work in progress.
 
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  #53  
Old 04-08-2015, 05:08 AM
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Final Update:


I had left this at rebuilding the front cylinder, I didn't have time to work on it any further. The noticeable point was the slowness of the latch cylinder opening and closing, approx. 10-14 seconds to fully latch if it would operate at all.


Three weeks ago I was working on it and left the ignition on for about an hour,
when I went to start it the battery had died. I replaced the battery with a new AGM
($200.00). When I run the top now it operates quickly and every time.


I would have to surmise the lower voltage getting sent to the pump dropped its
ability to push the hydraulic system. I have waited a few weeks to make sure
the problem is resolved.


Thanks again for everyone's help and input.


Tauni
 
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  #54  
Old 04-08-2015, 07:12 AM
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Reason No. 289 to ensure you always maintain a strong battery in these cars....
 
  #55  
Old 04-08-2015, 03:34 PM
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Well, I read this post all the way through trying to find a possible solution to my top not raising and lowering properly. I will try all the solutions here and if these solutions do not work I start my own post chain. Thanks everyone.

I will check fluid condition, levels, lubrication and then battery.
 
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  #56  
Old 04-08-2015, 06:06 PM
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Where in NC are you located? Interesting enough Jon89 and I are putting my rams and hoses to them in the morning. We don't know all the answers for fixing the system, but we do feel lots of help is here and they are more than willing to help.
Oh, check for fluid on the bottom of the car under the rear of the door, both sides for a leaking Ram.

If you are close to Spencer/Salisbury come and watch, that goes for anyone, you are welcome, just PM me and I will give you directions. We start about 830AM.



Wayne
 

Last edited by cjd777; 04-08-2015 at 06:11 PM. Reason: spelling
  #57  
Old 04-08-2015, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tauni_XK8
Final Update:


I had left this at rebuilding the front cylinder, I didn't have time to work on it any further. The noticeable point was the slowness of the latch cylinder opening and closing, approx. 10-14 seconds to fully latch if it would operate at all.


Three weeks ago I was working on it and left the ignition on for about an hour,
when I went to start it the battery had died. I replaced the battery with a new AGM
($200.00). When I run the top now it operates quickly and every time.


I would have to surmise the lower voltage getting sent to the pump dropped its
ability to push the hydraulic system. I have waited a few weeks to make sure
the problem is resolved.


Thanks again for everyone's help and input.


Tauni
So did you actualy have the latch rebuilt and installed or did just the new battery work?
 
  #58  
Old 04-08-2015, 09:09 PM
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Hey CDJ777 (Wayne)! I live in Burlington.


My 2005 XK8, had until tonight, the original battery. I guess 10 years was long enough. I decided to go ahead and replace it. Top is going up and down just fine now.


I can not get away tomorrow. I wish I could. I am somewhat knowledgeable in hydraulics & pneumatics. Would be a excellent opportunity for me to become familiar with this system. I am not hoping you have other repairs to make but if you do maybe I can get there on the next one.

 

Last edited by XCrossWindsX; 04-08-2015 at 09:12 PM.
  #59  
Old 04-08-2015, 09:58 PM
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I look forward to the meeting. Jon should be coming by your place about 730AM, I'll tell him to wave when he goes by. We will have a big day with lots of ribbing.
Glad all is well on your top, 10 years, now that's a record on these cars.
Next time, Wayne
 
  #60  
Old 04-08-2015, 11:26 PM
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With the engine running the roof motor should have had the proper voltage to operate the roof properly.

Originally Posted by Tauni_XK8
Gus, yes the engine was running, and I have the synthetic oil in the system and I cleaned all the switches and contacts. I have some time this evening I am going to
spend on it.
 


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