As I was asked to post a tutorial on wheel reconditioning, here follows the reconditioning of my Double fives. These wheels were 10 footers, as once you got close enough, you could see staining of the finish, and each wheel had a fair degree of cosmetic curb rash.

This is a labor intensive job, but for those that enjoy working on their own, the end result is extremely gratifying. That being said, here we go . This ones for you Juke:

First, materials needed:
*180grit sandpaper
*320 grit sandpaper
*400 grit wet or dry sandpaper
*600 grit wet or dry sandpape
*(optional) 1000 grit wet or dry dandpaper
*Disposable shop towels
*Clean Spray Bottle ( filled with water and 2-4 drops of unscented dishwashing liquid)
*Tack cloth
*Box of rubber gloves (you can bet this will help protect your hands!)
*Paint prep precleaner
*USC All Metal or equivalant filler
*Self etching primer
*Sandable high build primer
*Base color (your choice)
*Clear coat (Lacquer)

There are choices of manufacturers and colors of ready available wheel paints, research and due diligence for Brand and color.

All paint used in my project came from cans. New technology has given us professional quality products in easy to use cans Even catalyzed (2K) Paints!

Primers and clear I purchased from The Eastwood Co, through their website. I used SEM self etching primer (gray), 2K Aerospray High-Build Primer (gray), and their 2k Aerospray High Gloss Clear.

My base color is Dorchester gray, to match my window and mirror trim color. This paint came from AutomotiveTouchup.com. They are based in Louisiana here in the U.S. I have used their paint on another occasion when I refinished my left front wing, mirror covers, and window and mirror trim.

The color match was spot on, and the finish job rivaled any shop job. I have done automotive custom paint for over 30 years, and I will say I am duly impressed with the ease and quality of these DIY products.

Ok, now to get busy!

Elevate vehicle on to jackstands, remove wheels and tires, dismount tires from wheels, clean wheels vigorously with cleaner/degreaser. No worries if degreaser discolors paint, your going to sand it off anyway.

Thoroughly clean wheels, remove wheel weights, and valve stems. allow to dry

Begin sanding with 180 grit sandpaper, which should begin to remove oem color (probably silver), sand each wheel to remove most of the base color, now repeat with 320 grit until all base color is removed and only light gray primer is showing. You may have sanded through on some edges, but no worry. Sand all 4 wheels thoroughly, the result should be smooth and clean.

Identify any damage, chips, scratches, gouges that need repair.

Sand all identified areas to bare alloy.

Mix USC All Metal (or equivalant) with hardener according to manufacturers directions, apply to damage areas (works just like bondo!), and allow to cure per directions. Warm, dry temps allow faster cure times.

Sand and contour filler to match contour. Repeat on each wheel where needed. When completed to your satisfaction, wipe each wheel with precleaner, then wipe any residue with clean shop towel. When clean and dry, wipe each wheel with tack cloth to remove any dust, dirt, trash, to give dust free surface.

Paint each wheel with a good coat of self etching primer, covering whole wheel, especially any exposed metal or repair. Allow to dry thoroughly, then sand smooth with 320 dry paper, removing any imperfections, dust,trash, etc. Blow dust off, then clean with precleaner.

Wipe with clean shop towel, if any metal was exposed, lightly cover with self etch primer.

Preclean and remove residue again with clean shop towel, wipe with tack cloth, apply 3 coats of high build primer. 1st coat sould be light (guide coat), allow to tack between coats (5-10 minutes dependant on temps), continue with full 2nd coat, allow to tack, then finish with 3rd wet coat. Allow to dry.

Begin sanding with 400 wet or dry, utilizing your spray bottle with soap and water solution. Keep the sandpaper wet and allow the water to rinse away residue and lubricate sandpaper, step up to 600 wet or dry to finish sand, and prepare a smooth surface ready to accept color. Sand carefully and remove any dust or trash that may have been trapped while priming, try not to sand through sharp edges.

Finished primed wheel should be a flat satiny finish, smooth, cleam and free of scratches and particulates,

Clean with precleaner, wipe any residue with clean cloth, then wipe entire surface with tack cloth.

Begin applying your base color, guide coat first, allow tack time, then heavier 2nd coat, allow to tack, then final wet topcoat, allow to dry. Most base colors are a metallic finish, if applied to quick or heavy, they can easily run, sag, or mottle. Take it slow and easy.

You do not want to sand an uncleared metallic paint, it will ruin the way the metallic lays, allow to dry, carefully wipe with tack cloth, and prepare to apply the clear (lacquer)

Apply your 1st coat (guide coat) lightly and evenly on all surfaces, remember to get around the edges of the spokes, and clear past the bead onto the inside of the rim. Allow this to tack to a "sticky" stage.

Her's a trade tip, when waiting between coats, allow each coat to get "sticky", touch a small indiscreet spot lightly with a finger tip. When you pull your finger away and the paint forms a "string" between the surface and your finger, it is still to wet. Allow more dry time, when you can touch your fingertip to the paint, then gently pull it a way it should not be "stringy", it should feel like you just touched the sticky side of a piece of masking tape. Try it with a piece of tape and you will understand thoroughly.

Continue with your 2nd coat of clear, this time a little heavier and wetter, but be careful not to run or sag. Make sure you get between spoke sides and edges, and towards the inside of the rim with an even coat. You should be able to see this coat melt into the guide coat and begin to flow smooth. Allow to tack. It may take a little longer than the 1st coat to tack, again, remember the "sticky" test.

When ready apply your final coat. It should be wet and heavier than the 2nd coat, if tacked properly it will flow out smooth and glossy. Be careful not to apply to heavy, as to avoid runs and sags and ruin your great work.

Allow to cure, at least 12 hours, preferably, 24 to 48. You can also heat cure in an oven at 180 to 225 % degrees for 45 minutes to and hour. I did so between each step, primer, then color, then clear.

You ask , ok BK, what was the 1000 grit wet or dry for? I took one extra painstaking step. I color sanded my final clear with 1000 grit and my soapy water, then hand buffed and polished to a glass smooth finish. Just a little extra, should help resist brake and road dust.

As I said, labor intensive it is, but the results are well worth it. I have had several people ask about my wheels, surprised to find they are reconditioned originals, shocked even more when told it was a DIY job done in my own garage.

My total material cost was less than $300.00

Once your paint is cured, install new valve stems, mount and balance your tires, bolt them back on your ride, and be proud in what you have accomplished.

Best to you,
BK

 

Looks great, how many hours/days did it take, it looks like a lot of sanding of a very tricky surface.

 

I did this process myself on my X type and thought I was thorough, but certainly not as thorough as your job, outstanding!

I believe when I did it that the UK cost was around £60 for all four, so about $95
Cost for a wheel refinishing specialist is around £300 - £400 depending on size of wheels etc, so definitely worth it.

Thanks so much for sharing this process, really great job and definitely one for the "How to" section

 

Your right RD, as I said, it's a labor intensive job, ya just gotta love what your doing. I've always thought, why pay someone else for something I'm capable of doing on my own, plus, I know it's done right. Seems as though you and so many others (JimC!) feel the same, as seen from your great posts, and that's what makes this forum the best!

I tried to track my time as I worked through my project, probably 30-36 hours total, material cost could be less, as I feel I used premium products, and maybe went just a little over the top!! Thanks for the props guys.

Cheers,
BK

 

Fantastic job! I like the dark grey wheels contrasted with the red car. I've been thinking about doing that with my car as well.

 

Very impressive. You are to be complimented on your dedication and thoroughness. Keep us posted on how your new finish holds up to time and the elements....

My wife's Victory Edition XK8's 19-inch Atlas wheels came with the stupid factory chrome finish (she likes them, I do not - I call them the drug-dealer wheels and would much prefer them to be the Atlas alloy style). Small flecks of the chrome have chipped off at some of the rim edges. From ten feet away you cannot see the chrome loss, but it ticks me off every time I wash those wheels (very gently with nothing but soap and water on an old cotton diaper so I do not exacerbate the problem). I guess there is very little I can do about it from a DIY perspective....

 

Great post Hdpartsman00XKR! I just refinished one of the wheels on my wifes Merc ML350 and agree about the amount of work involved. The wheel was originally refinished by the dealer before we purchased the car. It was ok when we bought it but it must have been a shoddy job because it looked bad after a year and CPO warranty didn't cover it.
I masked the wheel and valve and took off any of the remaining finish with wet sandpaper. I didn't have any cleaner and the first coat fish-eyed on me at a couple spots. After it dried I resanded and finally got the 2nd coat to look good (at least good from 10 ft. )
Two clear coats and a final sand/polish made it look pretty good but it was still a good bit of work for just one wheel, even without removing the tire. Masking took some time but you if careful you can't tell it was done with the wheel on.
Where do you find the USC All Metal filler? I have used bondo in the past for really small holes & scratches.

 

Thanks Gary, hate to hear you had to correct dealership work, but well done. I purchased the All Metal from Summit Automotive, as they have an outlet just a few miles away, check their website. I have also found it at some of the better auto parts stores, The Eastwood Company also has it available.

 

I may actually try this using your step by step guide! All 4 wheels on the xk8 have nicks and what appears like, rock chips on almost all of them. Sadly, these were 'refurbished' by a local tire place who contracts out the wheel painting, and I think I got substandard work.

 

As seen from your previous projects (and seeing your car in person), your standards are through the roof, I think you'll be very pleased with your results

Have a Happy Thanksgiving,
BK