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  #1  
Old 08-24-2012, 04:38 AM
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Default Driver's Door Alignment

My driver's door sags a bit when opening. When pulled closed it hits the latch hard, which moves the door up and into position to latch it.

It has about 3/8" drop when it opens though. In addition to this being awkward, it is hard on the latch, handle mechanisms and even one spot in front where it rubs near the hinges due to being mis aligned.

Anybody know how to take the slack out? I'm hoping I don't have to tear the entire door apart, but its looking that way.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnporcello View Post
My driver's door sags a bit when opening. When pulled closed it hits the latch hard, which moves the door up and into position to latch it.

It has about 3/8" drop when it opens though. In addition to this being awkward, it is hard on the latch, handle mechanisms and even one spot in front where it rubs near the hinges due to being mis aligned.

Anybody know how to take the slack out? I'm hoping I don't have to tear the entire door apart, but its looking that way.
I can't remember reading of a previous instance of this. Broken Check Arms aren't unusual but doors going out of alignment without accident damage on a 2005 is bad news.

This used to be an issue on the Early XJ's where the door hinge pins wear and these were available as a separate part to rectify it. Hinge Pins aren't listed for the XK8 which suggests it's not a regular fail.

Looks like you're going to have to take the door card off to check the three flange head screws on each hinge. Top one is the likely suspect.

Graham
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:15 AM
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Default Door Sag

In agreement with GGG, you need to take the door panel off and look at the hinge bolts to see if an adjustment can be made inside the door.
Additionally, if someone leaned on the door to create a 3/8 inch drop, you may want to inspect the hinges where they attach to the front bulkhead. Possibly the metal could be pulled or pushed in at the bottom.
With the doors as long as they are, not much effort is needed to leverage the door out of position.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:10 PM
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I share your misery, but mine isn't quite as bad. I can just feel a slight bump when opening or closing the door. I know my hinges are good so an adjustment is in order but it appears to be a PITA job and I've been reluctant to fiddle with it.

The first thing to do is to open the door just enough to be able to grab under the back end of it and lift it up, watching and feeling if there is any looseness in the hinges (hinge pin wear.) Close the door and look at the door gaps. Are the gaps even all around the door? If they are a door adjustment is in order. If not, the striker and/or its adjustment is suspect (barring body damage.)

Providing the hinge pins are good an adjustment is in order. From what I can see in the parts schematic the door card and probably the fender liner will need to be removed for access to the hinge bolts. The upper hinge appears to require adjustment at the door, the lower at the pillar (probably through the fender well.) Making the opposite adjustments will tilt the door in and out at the top and/or bottom. It's fiddly work and patience, a padded jack and a handy friend (that brings both helping hands and beer) will be very helpful.
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:46 PM
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The trick to door adjustments is to avoid loosening the fasteners any more than is required. You only need enough to let the fastener slide under pressure. Any more than that and everything goes to pot.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:00 AM
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Default Heresy

You guys are going to kill me for this, especially since this will be my first post since picking up an '03 XKR in June (SWEET!). She's called Kitty.

Here we go:
A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I owned an MGB with the exact sagging door hitting the striker problem. I just dealt with it by lifting the door when closing.

One day I backed out of the garage with the door open (yes: idiot) and rammed the door into the garage frame. After I regained consciousness from the faint, I found there was no damage to either participants (whew!). However, later that day I found that the car door now closed PERFECTLY - and always did afterward.

OK, you guys know where this is going by now. I have exploited this "fix" on numerous occasions over the years with 100% success. Of course, now I just use a jack under the door instead of the "ramming" option. And yes, Kitty had the same sagging door problem when I bought her. But not any more.

Let the shrieks and screams begin!

BTW: I've just been "stalking" the forum for some time now, and I have to tell you all that this is one GREAT place. The helpfulness and courtesy of the crowd really sets this place apart from many other car forums I've used over the years.

As a "new", high mileage Jag owner, I of course have numerous little sniggles to sort out, but I'm trying to exploit the FAQs and seaches before I start asking my own silly questions - lol. (Do I really have to send my key blanks to AUSTRALIA to get them cut?! )

Great place - glad to be here,

Jim M
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:14 AM
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Welcome to the forum Jim,

Interesting technique - can't wait for your next post on fixing tensioners.

The jack method used to be common practice in the days when I had an MGB. They were a thin, lightweight door which twisted fairly easily. Jaguar doors are much more substantial and I'm sure it's more the weight of them that causes issues.

Please post in the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section to introduce yourself and Kitty to all the members.

Graham
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:17 AM
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Let the shrieks and screams begin!
Hardly. You adjusted the door just like a line worker would have when she was built.

You may pick up your union card in the cafeteria.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:52 AM
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Hey, thanks scardini1. I just got on the forum to update you guys with what I thought was my clever idea to attempt to fix the door. That is exactly what I did, I blocked the door on the end and then jacked it up. That was last Saturday and so far, so good.

I have reason to believe that the owner before me was a larger individual and am thinking this is what tweeked the door. There are no signs of accident or other damage, so I am hoping that without someone hanging on the door, that this problem won't repeat itself.

Thanks for all of your input. As it stands, the reason I didn't attempt to adjust it first was that many doors have bolts on the outside between the door and body. But these ones appeared to be bolted from inside and I was hoping to avoid that. We will see.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:24 PM
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I had the same exact driver door sag on my 98 XK8. It was probably worse than you describe. It turned out that the lower front hinge, where it meets the door shell was ripped through the metal. I had a body shop friend work on it, using the jack up the door method, and weld the door hinge for support. Problem resolved and door now closes nicely. This was done about 3 months ago and has held up well. XK8 doors are just so heavy and long, it is a lot of pressure on those hinges. Before going this far though, I would read through prior suggestions to check for loose bolts and nuts.

Good luck.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:32 PM
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Default Heresy!

Thanks for not killing me guys. Yeh: I inspected the door attachments and hinges quite closely befor breaking out the floor jack. Jeez - this thing is built like a tank. I've never owned such a solid car before, and that includes a SUBURBAN (it was the "then ex-wife to be"'s of course).

Nuts - apparantly, I'm in a friggin union again LOL.

Promise to get to the Newbie page for a quick bio later. Got to get those ten posts in "somehow".

Ciao! - Jim
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:28 PM
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I have seen the GM dealer techs use a bar made especially for "adjusting" the doors without loosening any hardware. One end hooks into the jamb notch, and the other hooks into the door edge latch when the door is close to being closed. A lift upward will raise the door at the rear, which of course is bending the hinge/sheet metal slightly, allowing incremental changes in the alignment. These work incredibly well on the GM cars and trucks. I see no reason it wouldn't work on our Jaguars. Snap-On, and Matco likely have them available; probably others. Seems to me these tools ran around $60. I, too, have used the jack method on a variety of vehicles! Not the best thing, but it does work in most cases!
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopr View Post
I have seen the GM dealer techs use a bar made especially for "adjusting" the doors without loosening any hardware. One end hooks into the jamb notch, and the other hooks into the door edge latch when the door is close to being closed. A lift upward will raise the door at the rear, which of course is bending the hinge/sheet metal slightly, allowing incremental changes in the alignment. These work incredibly well on the GM cars and trucks. I see no reason it wouldn't work on our Jaguars. Snap-On, and Matco likely have them available; probably others. Seems to me these tools ran around $60. I, too, have used the jack method on a variety of vehicles! Not the best thing, but it does work in most cases!
Sorry, I am not following . What bar and what do you do with the bar. I have the same issue I have bent it back up a little but it needs just a little more and I get nervous putting too much pressure on it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:42 PM
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Scott, I asked the Matco tool man that comes to our shop today about that bar. He showed me a photo from page 395 of his catalog. The tool is listed in the "body repair" section and they call it a "DA658 door adjuster". The list price on theirs is $68.67 USD. I am certain you could find the Matco catalog online and find the tool. The tool is quite robust. Basically, one part of the tool hooks onto the stud sticking out of the car body that normally fits into the door latch slot. The other part of the tool replicates the car's body stud, so it fits into the edge of a partially opened door. The handle extends out and around the edge of the door, and you apply significant force to alter the door adjustment up or down a bit. It's hard to describe, but once you see it done, it's very basic. Again, never tried it on a Jaguar. Frankly, I also think a person could make one of these to fit our cars fairly easily.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:39 AM
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I just went out, and pulled my sagging driver side door up all I could. Problem solved. No need for jacks if you can deadlift
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopr View Post
Scott, I asked the Matco tool man that comes to our shop today about that bar. He showed me a photo from page 395 of his catalog. The tool is listed in the "body repair" section and they call it a "DA658 door adjuster". The list price on theirs is $68.67 USD. I am certain you could find the Matco catalog online and find the tool. The tool is quite robust. Basically, one part of the tool hooks onto the stud sticking out of the car body that normally fits into the door latch slot. The other part of the tool replicates the car's body stud, so it fits into the edge of a partially opened door. The handle extends out and around the edge of the door, and you apply significant force to alter the door adjustment up or down a bit. It's hard to describe, but once you see it done, it's very basic. Again, never tried it on a Jaguar. Frankly, I also think a person could make one of these to fit our cars fairly easily.

Here's a link to view or order that part: CLICK HERE.

.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:24 PM
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This thread has been quite humorous. Here, I thought I was committing some egregious sin, only to find out that it's sort of SOP for the OEMs!
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:06 PM
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I just jacked mine up and it worked but man was I nervous.

I stuck the jack under the door, with a block of wood to save the paint. Jacked it up trying to bend the door back in place. I tried it a couple of times without jacking it too hard and it did not work, then I bit the bullet and put some real pressure under the door, it worked! Door closes like it was new.
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:00 PM
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the jack and wood trick is what i used for years,on used cars and restorations[before paint].but if your careful you can do it.however 3/8 is along way to go,get someone to wiggle the door up and down [ajar just enough to see] while you watch to see if its the hinge pins or something worse.if pins are good then proceed.have someone watch front of door so it does'nt make contact with fender,if you get it to the right hieght it might kick the top hinge out,thats ok just loosen top bolts and pull door back to the right possition.however 3/8'' tells me its a worn out hinge,or some real damage...steve.
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:00 PM
 
 
 
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1998, back, bend, convertible, door, driver, hinge, jaguar, mgb, pins, sag, sagging, twisting, xk8, xkr



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