I have a 2004 XK8 with 64,000 miles. I love this car. I drive it as often as possible as long as there's no salt on the road. The unusually long, cold winter meant she lay dormant for awhile. Battery was 95% dead. Charged it and it started right up. Runs like always except for:
1.) check engine light
2.) ABS light
3.) no cruise/instant fuel/trip odometer
4.) BRAKE light
5.) low brake fluid warning
6.) DSC not working
7.) red and yellow, elliptical lights, mid cluster
8.) no speedometer

Bought an OBDII reader.
Codes P1000 and P1637

Did a hard reset.
Bought a new, vented battery. Hard reset. No change.

Was able to clear the CEL.

Plan to clean wheel rotation sensors when I have time.

Have searched and read all I can in the forum.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

BTW, the airbag fault light was on before and is now off. Go figure.

 

If your lights are still on, give it a few more miles. It may yet reset on its own. Although I would have expected the hard reset to clear more. Won't hurt to try that again BTW.

These cats hate low batteries.

 

+1 on a strong battery always being required....

Find the time to clean all four wheel speed sensors properly and check their cables and cable boots for wear and tear. This may clear up your ABS/DSC warning lights....

 

Thanks guys. I'll update after I clean and inspect the sensors, wires and boots.

 

So, the front wheel sensors were barely dusty, the rears a little mucked up. Cleaned them anyway. Did a hard reset and no change. Still throwing the same codes. Is this one of the years where the ABS brain farg up and need to be rebuilt?
Tired, cold and frustrated.

 

Very possible you have the rather common abs pump connection solder failure. I believe you will find repair info in the diy sticky or at jagrepair.com. Or you can send it to ASI or other repair sources found on ebay fo testing.

 

Thanks RJ. I was hoping Jaguar had found a fix by 2004, but I guess not. Considering the only non-routine work performed on this car, since New, was the transmission pan gasket, the convertible pump repair and the airbag fault from a loose connector, I shouldn't be upset. With a team of owners as there are here in the forum, things don't seem quite as insurmountable.
True to form, any time estimate for my shade tree wrenching, needs to be multiplied by a factor of three. Time estimate to clean the sensors? One hour. Actual time? Three hours. This time, the factory lug wrench caved to my torquing ability, twisting it like a pretzel at the fair. Looked brand new too, never had the foam jack holder, from under the spare out till today. Better in the driveway than on the freeway, I guess.

 

The factory-supplied lug wrenches are indeed soft and lousy. Go get an 18-inch breaker bar along with a 22mm deep-well socket, stash them in the trunk, throw your lug wrench away, and you're set for the life of the car....

 

I ran across this when I did the ABS solder job on my car. I accidentally messed up the chip trying to open the unit to solder the joints (cut to deep). Lost my speedo and all kinds of controls that apparently runs through the ABS module.

I'm thinking your whole module is toast not just the solder connections. I was able to purchase a replacement unit out of Florida for $350.00 with the module and pump motor so it was an easy swap.

A few year later I was getting the ABS TRAC/STAB Fault on the replacement and repaired the solder joints using the 7/8 Hole method over the solder area only. That worked much better for me. Mine's a 97 so I don't know if they moved the spedo controls on later units.

 

Did you inspect the wiring to the sensors? They are known to become frayed or broken. Either one can cause the ABS fault.

 

I bought an X-lug wrench to keep in the trunk along with a deep socket to go on my torque wrench.

I looked at the ABS unit tonight to see how much work it would take to wiggle it out. Looks like a project for the next day off. The holesaw technique looks doable. I too look at these projects realistically. "There's no good, working part I can't ruin attempting to repair it."

Yes, I took a good look at the wires, boots and rubber bushings for all four sensors. Really, the thing that impresses me most about this project is just how clean and rust free the entire chassis is. No wear, whatsoever in the wires, but an excellent suggestion all the same.

 

I should have sent this earlier. The resistance across the pins should be 1000-1100 ohm. Remove the neg. battery cable before disconnecting the cable from the module.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf

 

Thanks RJ.
So do I buy a multimeter and simply put one lead in, say, #17 and the other in#18 and check resistance? I've no experience like that but am a quick study. I downloaded the ABS Hard Fault OFF file a couple days ago and thought that should be the next step.

 

Yes, that's the technique. The leads on my meter were too big to fit the sockets, so I cut some pieces of wire to put in the sockets first. If so, make sure the wire is long enough that it doesn't get lost.

 

Excellent. I'll stop by Advance Auto on the way home and see if I can get this figured out.

 

If I'm correct, this is the ABS plug on my 04. There are 50% more pins in mine than the PDF illustration. Any suggestions?

 

Did not realize there was that much difference. I believe the JTIS covers up to 04, and the electrical schematic can be traced, but a lot f work if you're not familiar with tracing circuits.
If the pins on your plug are numbered, you may find them to be the same for the wheel sensors.
Some one with experience of the 4.2 may be able to help.

 

I'm afraid there is a difference. Just pulled the ABS unit to check the solder, drilled the hole and VOILA, nothing. I'm afraid that the boards are different and solder isn't the problem. I'll see if there's a way to get it bench tested around here. Crap.

Thanks for the advice. I can't find any numbering on the plug.

 

Anyone know of a reputable ABS rebuilder?

 

bbm-reman?