Gas Leak at Passenger Fuel Rail
#1
Petrol Leak at Passenger Fuel Rail
All of a sudden about a week ago I noticed a fuel smell. Today after I changed the serpentine belt, I drove the car a bit and then checked the engine bay. That's when I noticed the fuel leak.
I hope this isn't a fire hazard. Now, how do I fix this?
I hope this isn't a fire hazard. Now, how do I fix this?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-22-2015 at 12:21 AM.
#2
Someone must know how to fix this. This car is my only car and I can't move it for fear of a fire, and the insane amount of fuel it is leaking.
It seems to be leaking from that fitting that is connected to the fuel rail.
Could anyone tell me what part that is? Or some method of fixing it?
It seems to be leaking from that fitting that is connected to the fuel rail.
Could anyone tell me what part that is? Or some method of fixing it?
#3
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giandanielxk8 (02-22-2015)
#4
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giandanielxk8 (02-22-2015)
#6
That is not cheap. Damn.
So wait, is the damper the same thing as the regulator? I read Maxdawg's thread and I think I'll need to re-read it. I have no supercharger, so I guess it should be an easier job. Like him, I also use Macs and don't have access to the JTIS, could anyone provide me a pdf of the JTIS procedure for my car?
Damn it, I guess my car just doesn't like being in good running condition.
So wait, is the damper the same thing as the regulator? I read Maxdawg's thread and I think I'll need to re-read it. I have no supercharger, so I guess it should be an easier job. Like him, I also use Macs and don't have access to the JTIS, could anyone provide me a pdf of the JTIS procedure for my car?
Damn it, I guess my car just doesn't like being in good running condition.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-22-2015 at 03:48 PM.
#7
You can download a pdf version for your car here XK8 XKR Workshop Manual 1999 [Jaguar XK8 XKR X100] for $10 or so.
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giandanielxk8 (02-22-2015)
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#8
Thanks, RD.
Looking at it in my car, it seems like a much much simpler job than in maxdawg's due to the lack of a supercharger.
It seems like the fuel pressure regulator is readily accesible with the removal of just one bolt.
I really wish I didn't have to buy the damn regulator. It is quite expensive, and I do wonder if just replacing the O-ring could work. To make matters worse, SNG Barratt seems to only have it for special order. The last time I special ordered something, it took well over a month to arrive.
I never use ethanol petrol, however, the leak may be precisely caused by that. Two years ago, when I didn't know any better, I did use petrol that contains ethanol. Now, I only use Shell's nitrogen enriched 91 octane petrol.
How likely is a new O-ring to fail if I change it over getting an entire new fuel pressure regulator kit?
I'm almost positive I can get away with just changing the o-rings. So what diameter o-rings should I buy?
Alright, I kept searching and found a thread where two people with the N/A car fixed it by just changing the o-rings. As the old adage says, start with the cheapest fix and work your way up from there. I am going to start with the o-rings. I'll see if I can secure some tomorrow.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-99xk8-72036/
Looking at it in my car, it seems like a much much simpler job than in maxdawg's due to the lack of a supercharger.
It seems like the fuel pressure regulator is readily accesible with the removal of just one bolt.
I really wish I didn't have to buy the damn regulator. It is quite expensive, and I do wonder if just replacing the O-ring could work. To make matters worse, SNG Barratt seems to only have it for special order. The last time I special ordered something, it took well over a month to arrive.
I never use ethanol petrol, however, the leak may be precisely caused by that. Two years ago, when I didn't know any better, I did use petrol that contains ethanol. Now, I only use Shell's nitrogen enriched 91 octane petrol.
How likely is a new O-ring to fail if I change it over getting an entire new fuel pressure regulator kit?
I'm almost positive I can get away with just changing the o-rings. So what diameter o-rings should I buy?
Alright, I kept searching and found a thread where two people with the N/A car fixed it by just changing the o-rings. As the old adage says, start with the cheapest fix and work your way up from there. I am going to start with the o-rings. I'll see if I can secure some tomorrow.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-99xk8-72036/
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-22-2015 at 05:09 PM.
#10
I changed the o-rings. That stopped the leak, however I now have a new problem. I am stumped. Now, the car doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel. It is not idling properly. If I depress the gas pedal, the engine stalls. I tried removing the fuel pump fuses to see if I could pressurize the system, but that didn't work. I'm also not getting any warning lights or codes.
I'll have a video up shortly.
I'll have a video up shortly.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-23-2015 at 11:53 AM.
#11
turn the car on but don't start to let FP pressurize the system, go to the schrader valve on front of drivers side of fuel rail and see if it squirts gas, if it does nto could be a FP issue??? If it does I wonder if something is up with that part you took off. Clogged? Any of the old O-ring get into it?
#12
Well, I checked, no fuel coming out from the schrader valve when the key is in the ignition position II. However, the car somehow does start. When it starts, I checked the schrader valve again and fuel pours out. That's weird, right?
I checked my fuses and there is something that is not right. I think my fuel pump is not getting adequate power.
My manual, which is in spanish, says the following:
Fuse 3 = diagnostic conector (ignition) 5 Amps
Fuse 5 = Contact tensor for relay fuses, control module of the fuel pump. 30 Amp
Fuse 7 = not used
However, in my car, fuses 5 and 7 are not as indicated in the manual. My car has the following: 5 amp fuse in fuse 5, which would confirm my theory, and it does in fact have a 20 amp fuse in fuse 7. Which is just strange. I checked and fuse 7 does have contact points, which indicates it is in fact used in my car. Fuse 3 also has the 5 amp fuse. Now, this is more inline with what I found for the manual of the 02' car.
Checking in a pdf manual for an 02' indicates the following: (I'm not sure that the 02's manual is applies to my car)
Fuse 3 = Fusebox ignition +Ve, bulb monitoring control module, S/C fuel pump relay, reversing aid. 5 Amps
Fuse 5 = Diagnostic connector (ignition) 5 Amps
Fuse 7 = Fuel pump 20 Amps.
Every other fuse has the correct amp according to the manual. Well, pulling fuse 5 made no difference. However, pulling fuses 3 and 7 meant my car would crank, but not start. Every other fuse in my car matches the spanish manual I have at hand, although not the pdf in english.
So, what is fuse 5 and what is its correct amp?
Oh, and for some reason, the spanish manual I have is also for an 02' XK. So, what are my correct fuses?
I checked my fuses and there is something that is not right. I think my fuel pump is not getting adequate power.
My manual, which is in spanish, says the following:
Fuse 3 = diagnostic conector (ignition) 5 Amps
Fuse 5 = Contact tensor for relay fuses, control module of the fuel pump. 30 Amp
Fuse 7 = not used
However, in my car, fuses 5 and 7 are not as indicated in the manual. My car has the following: 5 amp fuse in fuse 5, which would confirm my theory, and it does in fact have a 20 amp fuse in fuse 7. Which is just strange. I checked and fuse 7 does have contact points, which indicates it is in fact used in my car. Fuse 3 also has the 5 amp fuse. Now, this is more inline with what I found for the manual of the 02' car.
Checking in a pdf manual for an 02' indicates the following: (I'm not sure that the 02's manual is applies to my car)
Fuse 3 = Fusebox ignition +Ve, bulb monitoring control module, S/C fuel pump relay, reversing aid. 5 Amps
Fuse 5 = Diagnostic connector (ignition) 5 Amps
Fuse 7 = Fuel pump 20 Amps.
Every other fuse has the correct amp according to the manual. Well, pulling fuse 5 made no difference. However, pulling fuses 3 and 7 meant my car would crank, but not start. Every other fuse in my car matches the spanish manual I have at hand, although not the pdf in english.
So, what is fuse 5 and what is its correct amp?
Oh, and for some reason, the spanish manual I have is also for an 02' XK. So, what are my correct fuses?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-23-2015 at 01:28 PM.
#13
This is a link on checking the power to the pump.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
If you can put a pressure gauge on the fuel Schrader valve and start the car and you should have about 34 +/- a few PSI then remove the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and it should jump to around 44 +/- a few.
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
If you can put a pressure gauge on the fuel Schrader valve and start the car and you should have about 34 +/- a few PSI then remove the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and it should jump to around 44 +/- a few.
#14
#15
No codes at all, except for P1111. How do I do the hard reset?
I don't have a volt-meter handy nor a fuel pressure gauge. I wasn't having this problem before, the car used to start without a hitch. What triggered this?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 02-23-2015 at 01:42 PM.
#16
Did the following:
I removed the regulator, checked it. Fuel poured out as normal. So, fuel is getting to it. Did the schrader valve thing, same results as before. I got nowhere with the fuses and relays. I tried swapping around the relays, but that did nothing. I can barely hear the fuel pump, or lets say I can't hear the fuel pump.
Tried the position 1 position 2 thing on the ignition a few times to see if the system would pressurize. No luck there, again I can't hear the pump, but I can hear the injectors. (Side note, I have never been able to hear the pump.)
After a few cycles of that, I tried starting the car and checking the codes.
No codes, the car did start. Idling horribly, like in the video.
Interestingly for nearly a quarter of a minute, it began idling normally, then the car went back to the previous scary idling and finally stalled out. Tried cycling the ignition again and then starting the car. The car started and stalled. I left it there.
Is this a nearly dead fuel pump?
I removed the regulator, checked it. Fuel poured out as normal. So, fuel is getting to it. Did the schrader valve thing, same results as before. I got nowhere with the fuses and relays. I tried swapping around the relays, but that did nothing. I can barely hear the fuel pump, or lets say I can't hear the fuel pump.
Tried the position 1 position 2 thing on the ignition a few times to see if the system would pressurize. No luck there, again I can't hear the pump, but I can hear the injectors. (Side note, I have never been able to hear the pump.)
After a few cycles of that, I tried starting the car and checking the codes.
No codes, the car did start. Idling horribly, like in the video.
Interestingly for nearly a quarter of a minute, it began idling normally, then the car went back to the previous scary idling and finally stalled out. Tried cycling the ignition again and then starting the car. The car started and stalled. I left it there.
Is this a nearly dead fuel pump?
#20