Help - STARTING CAR - turns over but won't start
#21
10-20-2010, 05:13 PM
That's OK Gus. As it was before, and is now, I don't see my responsibility as having to convince you. I see my responsibility as supporting and conveying sound technical practices, especially when it comes to providing technical advice to others.
Regarding my use of term O2 sensors, it appears you might have skim read this thread. There is more than one active topic going on and I addressed them in different replies. I believe you've conflated them and confused both issues.
Regarding my use of term O2 sensors, it appears you might have skim read this thread. There is more than one active topic going on and I addressed them in different replies. I believe you've conflated them and confused both issues.
#22
10-20-2010, 06:21 PM
Veteran Member
#23
10-28-2010, 07:37 AM
did you find out what caused the problem?
I had the same problem recently. Had the car towed to the Jag dealer, and the throttle was clogged.
#24
10-28-2010, 07:43 AM
Did your husband start the car for a brief period, maybe move then shut the engine off when he filled the tire? If so, this 1999 MY is likely a nikasil engine and you've caused a very classic condition to exist called cylinder wash. The 1997 to 1999s had a serious problem with this exacerbated by fact that the cold start fuel cell algorithm was programmed overly rich.
First, you have to make sure that the battery is charged up so it doesn't die in this process. Next, try to start the car with the accelerator pedal held to the floor. Do short 20/30 second tries, letting the starter rest 30 seconds in between and continuing to hold the pedal to the floor.
Holding the accelerator fully opened shuts off the fuel delivery so you don't continue to wash oil from the cylinders which destroys compression.
It should eventually start (maybe 4/5 tries). This is a factory approved method for cylinder wash, a well known and documented condition.
First, you have to make sure that the battery is charged up so it doesn't die in this process. Next, try to start the car with the accelerator pedal held to the floor. Do short 20/30 second tries, letting the starter rest 30 seconds in between and continuing to hold the pedal to the floor.
Holding the accelerator fully opened shuts off the fuel delivery so you don't continue to wash oil from the cylinders which destroys compression.
It should eventually start (maybe 4/5 tries). This is a factory approved method for cylinder wash, a well known and documented condition.
#25
10-28-2010, 07:51 AM
Steve, THANKS for replying. I really appreciate the help you guys give. You are all wonderful. Forgive me but I'm still finding my way around here, but I did post what the problem was (look at my thread), but what you suggested too sounds logical. I was at the dealers mercy, so had to go with what they told me. Thanks so much.
#26
10-28-2010, 07:56 AM
Steve, THANKS for all of your advice. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT. I'm pretty new here so still learning my way around. I did post what the problem was in Feb 2010. The problem I had the other week with the car not starting, I posted the reply on the thread to my question. THANK YOU for all the time you devote to helping us here.
#27
10-28-2010, 09:47 AM
Veteran member
Throttle being clogged sure is a stretch of a statement, I mean...have you seen the throttle body opening. I would not be surprised if they proceeded with the cylinder wash-correction procedure and cleaned a couple components while it was there to justify a service invoice. I'm not being critical, but if it took them 15 minutes to get the car refired, might as well do a thorough cleaning of the TB, maybe the MAFs and charge an hour of technician time. Its plausible.
#29
12-10-2010, 08:41 AM
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tgrant
I have a si,ilar problem to those I have read but a bit different. I got a kind reply from Translator who sent me a link to some FAQ. I guess I am doing something wrong because when I go to the XK8 forum and search fro cranks but won't start I get "sorry no matches".
Anyway, Here is my issue:
I own a 2001 XK8 and have 70,000 miles on it. While I was out of town for several days my Wife got in the jag, turned it over as usual (no gas pedal pumping or any of thet) and it turned over a bit but and she thought it had started but didn't. She tried cranking again but it still wouldn't fire. She left it at that. I had a similar problem several months ago, had it towed to a garage and the in-tank fuel pump was replaced. I shouldn't think it would be the same problem although it is the same symptom. I note that one fellow was told to try and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery temporarily. I would be interested in how that worked out for him. From what she tells me it does not appear to be a flooding problem. Short of checking the fuel rail pressure (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge), what remedy (short of having it towed to the garage) should I tru first?
Thank you Translator.
Anyway, Here is my issue:
I own a 2001 XK8 and have 70,000 miles on it. While I was out of town for several days my Wife got in the jag, turned it over as usual (no gas pedal pumping or any of thet) and it turned over a bit but and she thought it had started but didn't. She tried cranking again but it still wouldn't fire. She left it at that. I had a similar problem several months ago, had it towed to a garage and the in-tank fuel pump was replaced. I shouldn't think it would be the same problem although it is the same symptom. I note that one fellow was told to try and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery temporarily. I would be interested in how that worked out for him. From what she tells me it does not appear to be a flooding problem. Short of checking the fuel rail pressure (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge), what remedy (short of having it towed to the garage) should I tru first?
Thank you Translator.
#30
12-10-2010, 09:49 AM
Veteran Member
You need to check for fuel and see what you have. You can go to most AutoZones, PepBoys and get a loaner pressure gauge and test it. This might help http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairF...SType99XK8.htm
#31
12-10-2010, 11:23 AM
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Cranks but no start
Gus and all,
I had my first opportunity to check the problem first hand. The symptom is not like it was before. This time it sounds like the starter because when I crank it does not sound like the starter solenoid is engaging the flywheel. Distinct difference in sound than when the flywheel is engaged. Not something I will have time to work myself so I guess the repairman gets some Christmas money.
Thanks to all and sorry for the false information but it was the best that was described to me long distance.
I had my first opportunity to check the problem first hand. The symptom is not like it was before. This time it sounds like the starter because when I crank it does not sound like the starter solenoid is engaging the flywheel. Distinct difference in sound than when the flywheel is engaged. Not something I will have time to work myself so I guess the repairman gets some Christmas money.
Thanks to all and sorry for the false information but it was the best that was described to me long distance.
#32
12-13-2010, 09:49 AM
This was the problem with my Jag XK8
OK, I had the same problem, but when my Jag was towed to the dealer, they found my problem was a blocked fuel injection from fuel deposits on the injectors. Maybe have your injectors cleaned. My Jag dealer recommended to me that to maintain the injectors (because I am low mileage), I use the following:
Bg products 44k performance enhancer cleaner - Fill the car with gas, and put the whole can of Bg 44K in the fuel tank. When the tank needs filling with gas then you put in a bottle of Bg products Supercharge II inj. cleaner fuel stabilizer on every tank fill up.
My husband said, prior to having your car towed, get a can of carb cleaner. Take the air filter off, spray the cleaner directly onto the butterfly valves, as you work the throttle linkage with your hand. After cleaning the carb, try to start the car. If the car starts, have the wife pump the gas pedal while you spray the carboreter cleaner into the open throat, about 5 to 6 squirts will do it.
Cars that are not used on a regular basis, or sit for long periods of time, (as is the case with my problem), the fuel evaporates out of the carbs and leaves behind a varnish-like finish, so the carbs need to be cleaned. Being as the fuel injectors are only about the size of pin, they can clog quite readily.
Bg products 44k performance enhancer cleaner - Fill the car with gas, and put the whole can of Bg 44K in the fuel tank. When the tank needs filling with gas then you put in a bottle of Bg products Supercharge II inj. cleaner fuel stabilizer on every tank fill up.
My husband said, prior to having your car towed, get a can of carb cleaner. Take the air filter off, spray the cleaner directly onto the butterfly valves, as you work the throttle linkage with your hand. After cleaning the carb, try to start the car. If the car starts, have the wife pump the gas pedal while you spray the carboreter cleaner into the open throat, about 5 to 6 squirts will do it.
Cars that are not used on a regular basis, or sit for long periods of time, (as is the case with my problem), the fuel evaporates out of the carbs and leaves behind a varnish-like finish, so the carbs need to be cleaned. Being as the fuel injectors are only about the size of pin, they can clog quite readily.
I have a si,ilar problem to those I have read but a bit different. I got a kind reply from Translator who sent me a link to some FAQ. I guess I am doing something wrong because when I go to the XK8 forum and search fro cranks but won't start I get "sorry no matches".
Anyway, Here is my issue:
I own a 2001 XK8 and have 70,000 miles on it. While I was out of town for several days my Wife got in the jag, turned it over as usual (no gas pedal pumping or any of thet) and it turned over a bit but and she thought it had started but didn't. She tried cranking again but it still wouldn't fire. She left it at that. I had a similar problem several months ago, had it towed to a garage and the in-tank fuel pump was replaced. I shouldn't think it would be the same problem although it is the same symptom. I note that one fellow was told to try and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery temporarily. I would be interested in how that worked out for him. From what she tells me it does not appear to be a flooding problem. Short of checking the fuel rail pressure (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge), what remedy (short of having it towed to the garage) should I tru first?
Thank you Translator.
Anyway, Here is my issue:
I own a 2001 XK8 and have 70,000 miles on it. While I was out of town for several days my Wife got in the jag, turned it over as usual (no gas pedal pumping or any of thet) and it turned over a bit but and she thought it had started but didn't. She tried cranking again but it still wouldn't fire. She left it at that. I had a similar problem several months ago, had it towed to a garage and the in-tank fuel pump was replaced. I shouldn't think it would be the same problem although it is the same symptom. I note that one fellow was told to try and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery temporarily. I would be interested in how that worked out for him. From what she tells me it does not appear to be a flooding problem. Short of checking the fuel rail pressure (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge), what remedy (short of having it towed to the garage) should I tru first?
Thank you Translator.
#33
12-14-2010, 02:29 AM
influenca
Hi,
its now december and there has been no more problem with starting. On the first emssion test right after this starting problem it failed (see above). I was advised to seek a mechanic with the right computers and so on, looked into change of the sensors, came to a lot of work plus $$$$ and decided, another test would be much less $.
What should I say, I drove around a little while and two weeks later it passed.
Maybe the cat suffered from octane-influenca or moonshine?
its now december and there has been no more problem with starting. On the first emssion test right after this starting problem it failed (see above). I was advised to seek a mechanic with the right computers and so on, looked into change of the sensors, came to a lot of work plus $$$$ and decided, another test would be much less $.
What should I say, I drove around a little while and two weeks later it passed.
Maybe the cat suffered from octane-influenca or moonshine?
#34
01-25-2011, 11:55 PM
Time to turn to the experts. I have '98 VDP with 67,000 miles and in great shape. Caught between mechanics on flooding problem. As best as I can repeat the situation: My mechanic who I trust a lot says he fixed problem, but computer needs to be flashed and he can't do it. He feels it is running rich and reflash will fix air fuel mixture issue. Took it to Jaguar dealer who says this particular model and year cannot be reflashed and problem is compression problem with cylinders 1 and 2. Their fix is new engine. Anyone have direction for me? Any fuel additive to help?
#35
01-26-2011, 09:54 AM
Veteran Member
Not sure on the problem with your car and do not know the area you live in to determine if temperature is a problem but you need a compression test and if compression is a problem adding Restore to the oil or a heavier viscosity oil might help. I found Restore works well by recommendation of Brutal. As for the rich fuel you should read this post https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=48390 Also is attached a little information on the ETC http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may98/techtotech.htm I am not that familiar with it causing a rich fuel mix or testing but thought it would be a good read and might help. I hope it does!
As for Jaguar not being able to re-flash the computer I am not sure that it entirely correct. I think they are so focused on the compression results on #1 & #2 that they felt TSB 303-35 Service Action S479 re-flashing was not a fix. Do you have any codes? You also need to know that Jaguar had a problem with the TB Replacement Service Action S514 and by the way it has expired Dec 2009.
Cleaning the TB and using a fuel additive BG 44K may help but may not be the answer. I hope this helps!
As for Jaguar not being able to re-flash the computer I am not sure that it entirely correct. I think they are so focused on the compression results on #1 & #2 that they felt TSB 303-35 Service Action S479 re-flashing was not a fix. Do you have any codes? You also need to know that Jaguar had a problem with the TB Replacement Service Action S514 and by the way it has expired Dec 2009.
Cleaning the TB and using a fuel additive BG 44K may help but may not be the answer. I hope this helps!
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LP100 (01-26-2011)
#36
03-05-2011, 11:29 PM
Been awhile (1-26) since I posted and thought update might help others. On a friend's referral took XJ8VDP to his mechanic even though he specializes in Mercedes. He changed the spark plugs even though pretty new because he said his experience with them was horrible. Don't really remember their name, but could provide it later if anyone wanted to know. I know they had platinum in the name. He also recommended new fuel filter and carbon cleaning of engine. Cost of plug replace about $300 and fuel filter and flush about $300. Car now starts good and I feel there is more power. I know nothing about the mechanical sciences, but believe there is a lot of feel and art. Hope my car continues to perform and my advice is it never hurts to get a second opinion and I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but I won't count my dealer's evaluation as an opinion. A little disappointed in the dealer not showing the kind of interested in the classic edition of my '98 even though it is a Jaguar.
#37
03-21-2020, 11:41 AM
Junior Member
XK8, odds are, you have a fuel line issue. I say this because you don't mention any engine work being done recently (so the timing should be intact barring a major failure that just happened to occur at the same time, highly unlikely). Because the engine is turning over, I know the electronics are working (needs a signal from the key, via the computer to send a signal to the start to engage). So, that only leaves the fuel and air. Work was only done in the rear of the car, so, air also shouldn't be an issue.
Would your husband happen to have a fuel pressure gauge handy? That would help me confirm that it is a fuel issue. The go/no go check would be if after cranking the car for about 20 seconds if you can smell fuel coming out the rear of the car. Granted, with the newer cars, they need a specific pressure, so, that would just be telling me that the jeul pump is atleast pumping something.
Also, what motor is in the car? That alters what fuses are used in the car for the fuel system. The fuses in question are in the trunk area, so, if you have the owner's manual, you can check the fuses yourself. It may be possible while putting in the tire, the fuse box got bumped and it was enough to cause the fuse not to play any more. Fuses do wear out over time believe it or not. So, it may be advantageous just to replace the fuses for the fuel pump and see if that corrects anything. You also have a relay (or two, based on the motor that you have) that can also be a source of your problem. It also is located in the trunk fuse box.
Would your husband happen to have a fuel pressure gauge handy? That would help me confirm that it is a fuel issue. The go/no go check would be if after cranking the car for about 20 seconds if you can smell fuel coming out the rear of the car. Granted, with the newer cars, they need a specific pressure, so, that would just be telling me that the jeul pump is atleast pumping something.
Also, what motor is in the car? That alters what fuses are used in the car for the fuel system. The fuses in question are in the trunk area, so, if you have the owner's manual, you can check the fuses yourself. It may be possible while putting in the tire, the fuse box got bumped and it was enough to cause the fuse not to play any more. Fuses do wear out over time believe it or not. So, it may be advantageous just to replace the fuses for the fuel pump and see if that corrects anything. You also have a relay (or two, based on the motor that you have) that can also be a source of your problem. It also is located in the trunk fuse box.
My Car is having the same mention problem,
Could you help me, does the car need to be running to test gas pressure? My car does not start it turn, but would not start.
#38
03-22-2020, 03:51 AM
Veteran Member
Victor, Welcome.
You should start a new thread, this one is ten years old and although relevant, may be a completely different car and a lot of reading before getting to your situation.
You should also post which year and type of car, they all have some differences.
On your problem, have a look at the fuel line and look for a capped covered valve like on the tires and push it.
If you get fuel shooting out, we can start looking somewhere else.
You should start a new thread, this one is ten years old and although relevant, may be a completely different car and a lot of reading before getting to your situation.
You should also post which year and type of car, they all have some differences.
On your problem, have a look at the fuel line and look for a capped covered valve like on the tires and push it.
If you get fuel shooting out, we can start looking somewhere else.
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DavidYau (03-22-2020)
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