Does anyone know if there are different "lengths" of homelink buttons. On my new to me 2000 XK8 the homelink module is in place, but the buttons are missing. I ordered one from an Ebay source and just tried to use the buttons, however they did not appear to be long enough to reach the buttons inside the homelink device itself. I checked the operation of the device by pushing on the buttons with a screwdriver and the lights operate as they should.

Any insights would be appreciated.

 

The early GDO rubber buttons are shorter than the later 'rolling code' buttons.
If you have the AMBER light rolling code GDO and you install the RED light buttons they will NOT be long enough to operate the switches.

(been-there-done-that)

bob gauff

 

When I read Utrider's post yesterday, I didn't even understand the question. From the 48 views and only your reply, perhaps I'm not the only one!

So 'Homelink' = Garage Door Opener. Is this an issue of the early pattern fob with the contact buttons that wear versus the later pattern with the microswitches?

Graham

 

The overhead console has the GDO contained. 'Homelink' is a manufacturer of GDOs so it seems to be used as a generic term for GDO.
The 3 rubber buttons are held in place with a plastic bezel. The 'fingers' on the bezel break or warp and the buttons fall out OR the latch hoses fail, fills the overhead console with hydraulic fluid and the buttons 'swell' and fail.

The console was updated around 2000 and the later GDO has the 'rolling code' system (amber indicator light).
Jaguar issued a memo to STOP replacing GDOs for customer complaints of not being able to program newer homes GDOs with the 'older' overhead console. Jaguar tested the returned units and found NO FAULT (only that it had the non-rolling code transmitter). I think the cost was around $800 so customers did NOT want to buy the newer units.

Jaguar reserves the right to update or modify their cars and NOT retrofit previous cars with the improvements (unless it is a safety issue OR THEY WANT TO).

The rubber buttons are not interchangeable between the red and amber colored indicator units (they are different lengths).

There is also a TSB (419-05) to explain the difference.

bob gauff

 

Bob,

Thanks for the explanation. Highly informative as always.

Graham

 

Thank you so much for the info. My apologies for not being clear on the Homelink vs. GDO terminology. So I think I understand what has happened, I do know the lines were replaced above the overhead console. I will try the transmitter that the buttons came with and see if that solves my issue.

Thanks again for the great forum.

 

No apology necessary. You and Bob both knew exactly what you were talking about. I was confessing my own ignorance.

Automatic garage doors are unusual in the UK. We generally just press the horn button and the Footman calls the Chauffeur to put the car in the garage.

Hope the alternative transmitter fixes the issue.

Graham

 

 

Can't compete with that.
I'll be posting an advert in the Private 'Wanted' Classifieds section for a new Footman. Spec as shown in Keith's YouTube clip.

Graham

 

My homelink button panel is falling out. How have you guys fixed this? thanks David.

 

If it is the whole assembly, buttons, dome lights, and the airbag sensor (metal screen) then it could be that the bracket it attaches to is broken. Not too expensive a part, even new.

If it is something else, then you will probably need to be more specific. Pictures are always helpful.

 

Here is the panel. As you can see I also have a bad rear view mirror. David.

 

Yep, the earlier cars had a separate homelink panel. You might try pulling down and removing the whole light assembly and seeing if you can use some plastic compatible adhesive to glue the homelink panel back.

And get the rear view mirror fixed ASAP...the fluid inside is very caustic to you and the interior of the car once it begins to leak. This company will rebuild your mirror for about $100: Sybesma's Electronics

 

I had exactly the same issue on my car. Like WhiteXKR said, you need to remove the whole upper light panel and apply a small amount of glue where the bezel locking tabs go thrugh the light panel. You could use an epoxy formulated for plastic, but I chose to use hotmelt because it is less permanent and easlier to remove in the event that you would need to disassemble it in the future. Mine is still holding very well; I repaired it about a year ago.

 

Thank you Sirs for the replies. I will try pulling down strait on the whole panel and glue the home link panel back up. And thanks for the rearview mirror advice. I just read that very informative thread yesterday. Will let you know how I make out. David.

 

Took the panel down and the tab was broken so that mystery is solved. However, under the home link unit and all over the rubber buttons was wet. Can't imagine any other reason for that than a slow leak from the roof latch. I wonder if it could be from lubing the latch? Probably wishful thinking.

The rear view mirror is on the way to get fixed though. Thanks for that info. David.

 

There is a possibility that the latch hoses or latch cylinder was repaired previously and the fluid was never cleaned from the roof console...but an inspection of the latch and hoses in the header is a good idea.

Also check the fluid level of the pump in the trunk for further evidence if the fluid is low.

 

I will check the level. I noticed the rubber on the out side of the top plate was ripped a little and the plastic fastener was under the the rubber trim so it looks like the top trim was taken off previously. to check the latch for leaks do I need to take off just the top plate or all the trim underneath? David.

 

The fluid level is down 1/8 to 1/4 in. through the plastic it looks dark blue. The hoses are marked polly flex 363 and the black outer layer is cracked in various spots. Not next to the fittings though. David.

 

I woud like to buy the cover for the buttons and the black plastic bracket that the overhead light consul plugs into. Anyone bought these and know the part numbers and a supplier? David.