You're not going to damage the upper shock mount by trying to get the shaft to go back up through the hole. That rubber is a lot tougher than you think. I had to cut it off of the flat disk. I started off using a utility knife. The knife could hardly cut into the rubber. I ended up using my band saw, and even the band saw had trouble. The rubber kept catching it and binding the blade, causing the band saw to stop.

If the rubber has degraded to the point that the top of the shaft damages it, then then mount needs to be replaced anyway.

Trying to feed it back through the hole is really a two man job. One person looks down through the hole from above while reaching underneath the fender to move the shaft into the right position. The other person works the jack at the instructions of the person looking down through the hole.

 

I wish I was there because I love solving problems like this.


You could also just pop off the tie rod end and the lower ball joint, and remove the entire vertical link with the upper A-arm still attached. Then you could let the spring stretch out to its full extension and just pull it out. Even if there's still a little pressure on the spring with the lower control arm fully extended, it's not going to be that much. Then you could use a pin to hammer out the lower bushing bolt, and stand back when it finally pops free. Wrap an old blanket around the spring and strut so it doesn't bounce around.

 

Yeah, I wish you were, too. Doing it from here it is definitely a 2 man job....or at least one with all good limbs, proper tools, and a lot of moxie.

 

You could send me a round trip ticket to Vegas and put me up for a few nights at the Bellagio. I'd be glad to help you do whatever you want on your car. I'll fix head rests, visor mirrors, and suspension bushings by day, and play poker by night.

 

OK. Got both side shock assemblies out. I put a set of outside clamps on one of the assemblies, tightened them just enough to hold the spring pretty firm, and am wondering if once I remove the nut for the shock, can I pull the shock out (leaving the spring compressed)? I am guessing, yes.

However, the mounts look a litle "crumbly" along the outer edge of the rubber material. If I want to take them all the way off, or do any kind of further inspection, I obviously have to let the spring completely expand. Then, the problem would be getting the spring re-compressed and then all put back together. Is this where the JAG spring compressor...or a shop...comes in?

PS: is there a way to test the mounts to see if they are still good? Remember, 115k and I don't know if they have been replaced....but the control arm bushings looked very good.

 

Just use a spring compressor like the one I used in the video. It's free at an auto parts place. You "buy" it (cost me $50 at Advance Auto Parts) and then when you return it you get your money back.

 

OK...that's what I'm using. However, I have attached my upper clamps on the spring as high as I could get them, and them put the lower clamps on the bottom side of the plate that holds the bottom of the spring. It is butted up very snug and I don't think it can come off. If I pull the spring in enough to take the tension off the upper shock nut I'm pretty sure I can just R&R the upper mount.

However...if I want to remove the entire shock so I can replace the lower bushing (or the entire shock), do I have to reposition the lower spring clamp into the spring as you have done it? IE does the shock come out with the lower plate in place, or does it require further disassembly?

 

I believe the lower plate is attached to the shock itself. Once you remove the top mount the spring should come right off. I don't believe there are any other bolts or anything. The spring is just held in place by that single bolt at the top of the shaft on the shock. Of course, you'll have to relieve the pressure on the spring by loosening the spring compressors since you have the bottom part on the outside of the lower plate.

Can you imagine the carnage if someone didn't realize they needed to compress the springs before removing that single nut? They'd be loosening the nut and suddenly the top mount and the nut would go flying in one direction and the spring/shock would go in the other.

 

Yeah, it would be nice if there was a warning sticker on either the shock or the top of the mount.

I looked more closely at the shock where the spring's lower plate is and there seems to be a ridge around the shock that holds it. If that's true, the spring would have to be decompressed so the shock would be freed. Or maybe that ring is actually pressed or welded onto the shock. It's hard to tell with the spring on, but all th epics of the shocks they sell don't show the plate/ring on there. Of course, those could be just "stock" picrures that aren't even the real shock. I do have a few pics of the setup removed where they were replacing with Koni's (I think from this forum). The lower spring mount plate is on the Bilstein, but not on the Koni. Dunno what that tells us. Looking at them enlarged, there is definitely a double ridge around the Koni that I guess would hold the lower mount.

 

Once the top mount is off, the spring can be removed whether is is compressed or not. It will just lift right up over the shock. It's kinda like one of those clicky ball point pens with the spring inside. The ink cartridge is analogous to the shock. Removing the top mount is the same as unscrewing the pen. Once it's in two pieces, the spring and ink cartridge lift out together, then the spring just slides off over the top. In your case you can't slide it off because you grabbed the bottom shock mount with the spring compressors. Once you release the pressure on the spring and removed the compressor, the spring will come right off.

 

I cleaned 'em up and it looks like I should be able to clamp 'em down, tighten the springs up a bit, and maybe
pull the shock out either direction. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the lower plate is sitting on a ridge on the shock with the pressure downward, then with the tension off the shock should be able to drop out the bottom. I think that might be the way to go because the bushing won't have to go up through the lower plate (AKA spring pan/spring packer/spring packing washer).

That lower mount does have a particular assembly and "locking" method, so I'll think twice about taking it apart....unless the "packer" looks worn out. Jag went to a lot of trouble to make this part more complicated, too.

OK....next step: I screwed down the spring on my LF and took the upper mount off. Apparently, the spring puts so much tension on the lower mount assembly that the shock cannot be pulled out or the spring pulled over. Remember though, I clamped the spring compressor on the bottom of the lower mount. Lesson learned. Not sure I want to remove the spring compressor as I don't know if I can get it back into its present compressed state. I can just get another set.

Now, the upper mount: I took the donut out for inspection (fairly easy), and it looks surprisingly good. The outer edge wear was a bit deceiving. But, I can see that it is not as thick as a new one. I'll wait until I get the right side out and part before I decide whether to replace them. Local dealer (Gaudin) says it might take 3 weeks to get a set. Anyway, I didn't need to pull any rivets out so I am wondering what would be the purpose of doing that??? Do I want to inspect or R&R the center bearing???

 

Got everything apart, shocks out, lower mounts disssembled, upper mounts partially dissambled (still not sure what can be replaced other that the "dirty donut"); found that the LF shock shaft will expand out about 6" after full compression while the RF doesn't come back out at all (don't know what is normal for new ones); lower mount components look ok, but the bellows and inner rubber dust shields are looking pretty old.

Lessons learned for the next guy:

1- if you are SURE you are NOT going to replace your shocks you can put your lower spring clamp on the base of the lower mount. It's easier to get on and off, and it takes far less travel on the screw to tighten it all down. IF YOU ARE considering replacing the shocks, then you must put the lower spring clamp bracket somewhere low on the spring as in the video. I was told, however, that clamping a few coils down too far and leaving them for very long can crack the spring. So, I have loosened the clamps to a "comfortable" position, and will simply tighten them down when I get ready to put everything back together (which could be a long time if parts are not available).

2- Whatever shock you consider for the front end they MUST have the correct ridge that holds the lower spring mount. I see some being sold that show no ridge. So, if ordering via internet or phone, ask the seller to identify the ridge (also has a slot for installing and securing the lower mount assembly).

 

Has anyone explored using an upper mount poly coil spring isolater like the ones offered by Energy Suspension (Energy Suspension 9.6120 Coil Spring Isolators - Style A - 96120 or Energy Suspension 9.6108 Coil Spring Isolators - Style A - 96108)?

 

I wish I had measured mine when I had my shock mount apart. I'm not sure what size would fit our shock mounts.

 

When you took yours apart were the smaller center discs worn out? Is that what taking the rivets out is for?

 

No, mine were no worn out, but I replaced them anyway. Yes, you have to remove the rivets to get to them.

 

I can't get a connection to your Utube vids.

 

Finally got back to it yesterday. The shocks, mounts, and control arms are now all in and bolted down, but I don't see any torque specs anywhere for all the nuts/bolts.

Once I get everything properly tightened I suppose i should take it to have a proper wheel alignment done. I will, however, "road test" it a bit first.

 

Well, I thought I had gotten rid of the clanky noises, but after I put the top down for a drive I could still hear them on the road dots. So, it must be something else under there. ?????