Max,

Got your PM and the hint from Steve! This looks to be the information you need:

2003 Jaguar XK8 & XKR - Heater Pipes.pdf

It's under 'Heating' and not 'Engine Cooling' in the Parts Manual.

Graham

 

Graham and Steve, Again, super thanks for teaming up in my behalf to help find those P/Ns for those hoses... Now, I just have to find a source - I may have to go directly to Jag for these two bits.

To wit: It always scares me to see drawings in parts manual that are drawn in a hurry. If you look at the drawings in the .pdf and then look at hose "B" on the pic attachment in my earlier post, they don't look shaped the same, do they? I just have to trust that the P/N is correct - and I'll receive the correctly molded hoses. I also intend on heat shrouding the new ones before I put the supercharger back on.

Cheers! and Thanks.

 

While I'm waiting for the injectors, rails and gaskets to arrive in the post, I have time to do a bit of detailing.

I decided that the top of my engine could look a whole lot better with a major cleaning and a change of finish. I cant take credit for the idea - I saw a similar color detail in a pic here on this forum several years ago. I remembered that as I worked what you see in the attachments. It's not powder-coat, Its "500 degree high temp enamel" color coat with a high-temp clear over the top.

I realize, with paint, have to be very careful not to scratch things up when I re-assemble the pieces!

My wife didn't get mad and was actually impressed with how the setup looked when she came home from shopping and found this setup on the kitchen counter!

Admission: It probably helped my case that, yesterday, I painted lady bug designs on her fingernails, huh? Hey! You got to give a little to take a little right ???

First pic is the before, the others I shot tonight.

 

Beautiful job, excellent detail work!!

 

Looks like an exhibition piece - superb detailing.

Graham

 

+1 on that - better than new.
While you've got the s:c in your hands as it were - I was looking at my engine yesterday and had a thought.
The two bits with 'Supercharged' on them (technical term this) attach to a flange that bolts onto the s/c body.
If you could undo the flange and lift the two bits clear wouldn't that give access to the rails and injectors without removing the whole shebang?
Maybe it's a bit like the famous old Webley air pistol where a huge spring flies out and smacks you in the eye if any such thing is attempted.

 

Thanks for the nice comments guys!

I know I can make things look nice. But now the bigger challenge, get it all back together with no leaks and have it run right... The FIRST time.

BY THE WAY... Jaguar dealer Parts man in Atlanta has a different P/N for the Heater Feed Hose than was showing on the .pdf that Graham found for me. He said that "R" cars have a different hose than the XK8s. He also said that a "3 way connector toward the back of the engine on the Left side almost always brakes so order that part along with the hoses when you are doing this job.

Heater Feed Hose PN: AJ87634
Heater Return Hose PN: NNE3946CA
3 way Connector PN: NNE3944BA

With shipping the order was just over 36 dollars


Steve, RE the removal of the "Charge Air Coolers" in order to get to the fuel rails..... Take a close look at the pictures of the detailed supercharger/cooler unit I provided. You can see the angle of the bolts that secure the charge air cooler/intake manifolds to the cylinder heads are positioned so that it would be impossible to remove those bolts without first removing the supercharger. I certainly wish it were different... That was the problem I worried I was facing when I started this thread. My worries were true......

 

For the two hoses and the Tee? That has to make them the lowest cost rubber items on the entire vehicle!

Graham

 

Sounds like a parts guy who knows his job. Who is the dealer in Atlanta?

 

Maxwdg - pic #4 - the flange that bolts to the main s/c body has one easy bolt on the top - is there an impossible one underneath then ?

On a more serious matter pic #6 shows a half empty bottle of wine with a cork in it !!
You must know that the health giving properties of Red Medicine are destroyed by oxidation if the bottle is in any condition other than completely full or completely empty.

Seriously though, good luck with the rebuild - I must say if I'd done a clean up job like that I wouldn't have the heart to put it back on the engine.

 

You are mistaken on two points:

-- once the red medicine bottle is empty, the potential health giving properties are gone, the only resolution is to obtain a new full bottle

-- a cleanup like that can only be fully appreciated in situ, but to preserve it you must never drive it again

 

Plums,
I have to bow to your superior insight into these matters.
Quite evidently you are correct on both points.

 

OK, first things first. I bought the hoses from Gaudin Jaguar Parts...

I got the city wrong... "Gaudin Jaguar Parts" is in Sunny LasVegas, NV. The parts guy was "Mark C."

I was trying to find the Number to Nalley (actually in Atlanta) so I typed in Nalley Jag.... and Google auto-filled "Nalley Jaguar Parts" so I went with that direction. I clicked on the first link and zooooom, I got scooped up and sent to Gaudin Jag by Google's marketing *****. I noticed the name was wrong - but car dealerships often change hands and thus, names - so I thought I was speaking to the parts counter men in Atlanta at the same dealership that perhaps USED to be called Nalley...

Duhhhhh on my part, but Hey! In the world of mail order everything, getting the correct parts is the most important thing and Mark C. At Guadin, seemed to know his Sh*t, right?

And RE the wine bottle in the picture: Damn, you peeps look at everything !!!!! I like that. But all your theorizing is for naught, as that bottle of really crappy, cheap red wine was brought to a party we had several months ago. The wine was soooo bad (IMHO) that after the party, we used it as bait to catch those little gnats/fruit fly that co-existwith us humans (to excess this season) in the windows-open springtime of Kansas City.

For those that wonder: I used a Mason Jar, poured into the jar about two ounces of the aforementioned "wine" that tasted like burnt leaves and mouse turds. I mixed into the drek about a table spoon of sugar and then made a paper "funnel" out of a piece of paper and set it into the top of the Mason jar near the kitchen window. The tiny flies are attracted to the alcohol and "garbage" smell that emanate ever-so-slightly from the jar/funnel "trap." They fly or crawl down into the funnel to get to the yummy smelling swill and are too stupid to figure out how to get out ------ Thus, a fly trap! Works amazing well and in the course of about two weeks we caught hundreds of those pesky little fellers.

So....The bottle that you saw in the picture is really a bottle of poison.
(Of course, I knew it was that at my first whiff of the stuff at the party!)

And oh, by the way, the grapes you can see in the background of pic number two WERE real, and they have all been put into my stomach as I have been writing this.

-Peace to all !

 

Steve, to answer your question about the flange bolts in pic #4...

There are TWO bolts under the output manifold splitter of the supercharger. They are difficult to see and might be impossible to remove without first removing the throttle body and hoses on the back of the engine.

I just used the .pdf files that you and Graham bird-dogged for me and did most things in the exact order specified by JTIS. It really was not all that hard - even if tedious and complicated.

I guarantee there is NO-WAY to remove the charge air coolers with-out first taking the supercharger out. It's the bolts that are underneath the air coolers that fasten the coolers to the heads that can't be accessed.

 

Uh when have you drank burnt leaves and mouse turds before????
Also when you go to reinstall. The bolt on the back that mounts the sc to the engine needs to be installed first, and slot the sc mount. Then slide the sc down under the bolt and tighten youll spend wayyyyy too much time other wise trying to start the bolt and tighten it with limited access.

 

Thanks Brutal for the suggestion - I have heard that doing the slot thing would help... And now, you have explained the need to do that modification well.

You know, When I took the S/C off the engine it was no big deal to get that bolt out. Consequently, I planned on trying to reinstall the S/C WITHOUT slotting the hole 'cause I just didn't understand the need. But now, Heh Heh Heh, I'm getting out the grinder tonight and going to work on it for certain!!!

RE: My comment on the nasty red wine:

It was my failed paraphrasing of a movie quote from the 2004 film "Sideways." The following is the real quote (and it still applies to the bottle in the picture)

"It tastes like the back of a f*cking L.A. school bus. Now they probably didn't de-stem, hoping for some semblance of concentration, crushed it up with leaves and mice, and then wound up with this rancid tar and turpentine bullsh*t."

 

I got the injectors and fuel rail back from "InjectorRX" last Saturday.

To Recap: I found fuel leaking from appeared to be the pulsation damper on the left fuel rail. After the rails were removed from the engine, I could not reproduce the leak in my him shop....So I needed my rails pressure checked to ID the leak and fix the problem. I also chose this opportunity to have the injectors cleaned and verified as well. Additionally, I wanted to replace the rubber heater hoses and knock sensors that are located under the supercharger - they are all subjected to very high temperatures and prone to leak/malfunction.

Chris from Injector RX was very willing and interested to develop a way of pressure testing the rails. He had not been asked to do this before, but welcomed the challenge. I received a call about 4 days after I had sent my rails and injectors to his shop. He duplicated the leak - It WAS the pulsation damper. Chris found that the O-rings that seal the damper to the rail had deteriorated to the point that they would not hold a seal at the fuel system operating pressure. He said that the o-ring's poor condition were consistent with alcohol damage he had seen in other applications (marine systems are his specialty) in recent times. Straight high-test unleaded gasoline is a very rare find in and around the Kansas City area - so his assessment didn't surprise me.

Chris replaced the o-rings on each rail's pulse dampers and pressure tested the system under-water for two days. He pronounced them good-to-go and after cleaning the injectors sent them back to me. My cost for his work was approx. $210.00.

You can see the injector report attached as a file below.

I have been too busy with life to devote as much time as I'd like to finishing this project.... But, I AM making progress. The following pics show whats up in the "chest cavity" of my little green beast.

You will see that in an attempt to shield the new heater hoses from the exorbitant heat they must endure under the supercharger, I have "aluminized" them with HVAC aluminum tape before putting them in place. I may have wasted my time with this little "shade-tree mechanic" trick - but I figured it couldn't hurt and it just may reflect a bit of the heat away from the rubber hoses... I really don't want to take this thing apart again for a coolant leak caused by a confound hose! You can also see the new knock sensors - also replaced as a preventative measure.

More Later.

 

Looking good Maxdawg, you may not have gained much with the tape, but it can't harm and could help with abrasion resistance too.

 

impressive work maxdawg, been following this for awhile! Its a good read, mixed with intrigue, science fiction, and a lil romance thrown in.

 

There was a big push last night - to get "Sir Hiss" put back together...

Six hours after the start of the reassembly - It starts! It Runs!!!

Real rough for about the first 10-15 seconds - then it smoothed out and purred, just as normal... All good so far, right?

Let it come up to operation temperature, checking for fuel and coolant leaks: We found none.

Turned engine off and topped off coolant.

Started it up and took it for first shake-down run.

First mile was all good... Then... bump, bump, two hesitations at about 3/4 throttle acceleration. Slowed down and attempted second fast acceleration and BAM! The RUDE "restricted performance" hit and all fun was gone.


OBDII reader sez: P0300, P0304, P0306, P1314 & P1000 Also, the "D" on the shifter is flashing red and it will not go into "sport mode" to allow manual shifting.

I cleared the codes, but after codes were reset, car was definitely still missing, and the transmission would not go back into the sport mode. But no code were thrown right away. I drove slowly back to my shop and it threw the same codes within in a minute of driving. The trans was still doing it's automatic "we know better than you" up-shifting into 6th gear by 30 mph sh*t. - I HATE THIS TRANSMISSION, by the way.

Wow! What a let-down..... With two very competent mechanics doing the re-assembly, everything went back together with ease. We both expected it to run perfect right out of the garage - because it was running perfect when I found the fuel leak that started this whole thing.

We know what the codes mean, and thought of many of the things that might cause those codes, but we're stumped at the moment.

We checked all the obvious things that we had worked on. Professionally cleaned fuel rails, and injectors - all installed correctly... Electrical hooked up correctly, no leaks (Fuel or Coolant.) Nothing has reared it's head. We started thinking - Plugs, wires, coil packs...... But WE DIDN'T TOUCH THAT STUFF - why would any of THAT suddenly take a dump??

As I type this on Sat Morning, I'm preparing to head downstairs to my man-cave of a shop to ponder over my sick buddy some more....

Any suggestions?