I had a request for the engineering drawings for the damper cup. I do not have actual drawings for the custom made caps. I sent my father-in-law the dimensions of the cup and he machined the cups from the measurements I provided him (directly off on the attached .pdf file)

Cheers to All!

 

Grabbed it.

Now, hopefully it turns to mildew on the hard drive before it ever needs to be used

 

Thats a big thread and alot of reading, great job

 

Is there anyone who might know the size of the O ring?
or
Where can new Fuel Dampners can be purchased?

 

New to this but desperately trying to stop the leak! The damper/dampener is NLA at Jaguar, they will only sell the fuel rail assembly, for $1400 - except they don't have any!
The damper has part number 2W93-9F775-AA etched into it and this number is recognized by the Aston Martin parts system as used in the Vantage but appears to be OOS in the USA. The same part is supposedly used by Land Rover in the Range Rover Sport. will work on that tomorrow...

 

Guys! You absolutely DO NOT NEED the fuel dampers on our V8 cars! Don't waste your time on trying to get the factory dampers to seal - they WILL NOT ever seal correctly for an acceptable period. I've been through this HELL! Pull the fuel rails and have the damper holes TIG welded closed. And.... be done with your leaking damper problems forever.
Seriously.

 

Sent fuel rails to Injector Rx, now have the two blanking plugs instead of dampers, no increase in injector noise and runs fine, leak-free!

 

Good news stiley, now the crisis is over maybe it's time for an intro in the new members section?

 

For Tim: email reply was vetoed by the system.

Tim,

The work was done to a high standard and quickly; I also had the injectors serviced due to the amount of engine destroying ethanol they put in the fuel in No. VA.

The car runs just the same after as before with no increase in noise, no codes, no lights. Have run about 4000 miles since doing it.

Regards,

Alan

 

Thanks for replying Alan. I emailed that company last night. They can do the work. I prob will send it out to them if my local European car repair shop can't do it themselves. I do not want a new o-ring fix as it appears they just fail again. Itis 100 bucks to fix and 18 an injector to clean those. Sounds like a safe route to go.
I wonder why these are even on there. Don't most other cars NOT have this on their FI rails?

 

Now, I wonder if I can pull the rails myself. How hard is that?

 

Hello All,
I have come up with a different solution to the fuel damper leaking around the crimp. I have a 2004 XKR with 78K and only put about 500 mi a year in the nice weather months. One of my knock sensors gave up early in the summer and i just plugged in a new one and laid it up on the manifold to keep me running and waited till winter sleep to remove the SC . The plan was to remove and replace 3 hoses the plastic Y and 2 knock sensors. Definitely a long laborious job, then the problem of the damper comes to light. My car ran perfectly and did not have any leaks at this time but wanted to be pro active with the SC off. I did not want to remove the rail and start down that road of cleaning and welding. I very carefully removed each damper , cleaned and filled each damper with a 2 part mix of a polysulfide material used in the aircraft industry to seal fuel tanks replaced the O ring with new ones same size as upper injector. The material can be ordered online and shipped for about $ 30.00. The product is CS 3204 made by Flame master. It was ordered from Van's Aircraft parts in Oregon part number MC-236-B1/2. There will be much waste but wanted to be sure of the correct mixing quantities with this one time use dispenser. I also added a small oil catch assembly to the right side evap line between the valve cover and the inlet manifold , there was a significant amount of oil in the inter coolers and the rest of the system which was a big clean job. Steve

 

Guys, I think Steve is really onto something here. There’s a good chance that his idea will be the easiest solution to a common problem. As long as you can remove the dampers without pulling the fuel rails (doing so, of course, requires the removal of everything on the top of the engine) this could be answer we’ve all been looking for.

It’s been many years since I went through this trial with my ‘03 XKR - and unfortunately, I no longer have the car, but I seem to remember it was really tight attempting to remove the dampers in situ. But don’t give up, Steve seems to be able to do it. As long as the blue O-rings don’t leak, Steve’s solution is a great one!

Additionally, his idea of an oil catch can is a sound one. There was a lot of oily mess in my intake track (from TB all the way to the heads.)

Remember everyone, your car will not be negativity affected by the removal of the pulsation dampers or Steve’s great idea of disablement of the dampers by sealing them up!

Carry on...

-Barry

 

I don't think Dave was offering a plan for disabling them . His was to provide an additional barrier to seepage where the module halves crimp together.

If the leakage is around the diaphragm ,(not through it) his plan is sound.

 

Hello, I am unclear of your response , the potential leak from the crimp is through the damper thus plugging the internals and disabling it. The poly sulfide mix is poured into the removed damper. It is easily removed from the rail in place buy slight deflection of two tangs and a cork screw motion. I replaced the O ring with part # C2C19756. Steve