I am coating the calipers and changing pads. Consequently, I want to completely remove the calipers from the car, but in doing this the rear banjo fittings are going to leak fluid. Is there any problem with letting the fluid gravity drain out of the system? I am concerned about getting air into the ABS system and/or the master cylinder as it drains.

I've completely drained brake system on other cars w/o incident; however, I was reading where the JTIS specifies a procedure to depress and hold brake pedal down 60mm while letting fluid out of left front and left rear calipers to 'minimize' fluid loss. I dont know if they are just saving money for their dealers, or there is a reason to keep some fluid in the system.

 

subscribed

 

And I have read of a specific sequence of bleeding at the wheels. Since there is a dedicated line from the ABS to each wheel I cannot see a reason for that.

I would suspect that the entire system could be drained and bled without any issue to the ABS system.

Good time to sound off as we do not have a good link on the FAQ sticky on bleeding brakes.

 

Greetings Gordo,

There are a number of available styles of clampin' tools to make life easier. Here's one example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brake...motiveQ5fTools

They help to stop the bleeding... or at least reduce the effort.

 

Hi Andrew: Since I was going to replace all the fluid, is there any reason I need to maintain a given level of fluid in the system? I thought I could simply reconnect the calipers, fill the master, and let each line (and caliper) fill by gravity. Then bleed in the traditional fashion.

 

Drop a dime, and I get asked for an extra $50.00.

I haven't missed much.

 

You should be happy things stay the same. It makes most people feel safer.

PS. Check your PM

 

Gordo too bad you are across the country, we have a brake flush machine that would fit the bill. Your idea about gravity beeding first is sound and should work just as you planned. We do it on our 300's that way as well. the onlthing I would ad is what they told us when we went to GTR training and test drive afterwards get the system good and hot and rebleed, this will get rid of the 'tiny bubbles" you dont see when you bleed the first time around.

 

Thanks Brian. I have never had any problems letting the lines drain; but every system has its little quirks. The front lines are easy to cap, and I will take JTO's suggestion of clamping off the rears. I am using Speedbleeders to facilitate bleeding.

BTW, I keep in touch with the young doctor who sold me my 300ZX to tell him about all the mods and upgrades that have been made to his old car. It has been nine years already, but he persists in asking if I would sell it back to him (at $10K+ more). Anyhow, six months ago, he bought a GTR, and I haven't been asked that question again. ;-)

 

What a coincidence I learned about rebleeding whenI went to the tech class for GTR's.
Oh and I am selling my 300zxtt I just dont drive it anymore.

 

The brake job went smoothly. In addition to swapping OEM pads for the Akibono Ceramic pads, the rotors were checked for thickness and runout.

After removing the rotors and cleaning up the hub face and rotor mounting surfaces, the runout was measured by using a dial indicator. It was within +/- .005" on all four ends.

The left rear banjo fitting leaked a couple of drops, so I tightened them both a little more than the factory spec of 22 ftlbs. Maybe like 25 or 30ftlbs. If they show any further signs of leaking, then I need to source some 10mm crush washers for the fitting bolts.

I included the Akibono application chart for future references. I found the pads on EBay and won the bid at $56. They were listed as fitment for an XJ, but are interchangeable to our non Brembo XK8.

 

Now that is a devoted hobby mechanic with an air conditioned garage.

 

Depressing the brake pedal a little bit closes the fluid transfer port between the brake fluid reservoir and the master cylinder and keep all the fluid from draining out. The brake lines are small enough that having the upstream port closed will not allow the fluid to drain due to capillary action.
I will usually just jam the brake down against hydraulic pressure with an adjustable hood prop rod between the drivers seat and the brake pedal, then remove brake lines as needed without fear of getting air in the lines.
Gravity bleed and/or use the prop rod to bleed the brakes on reassembly.
Use common sense of course, and either pull the brake light fuse or disconnect the brake switch at the pedal so the brake lights don't stay on...for obvious reasons.