batroute,

Please post the installation procedure you developed that you mentioned in post no. 33 in this thread. I will gladly take all of the expert advice I can get as I get closer to making a decision on what I will do and how I will do it....

Thanks....

 

Update:

I've ordered a new pair of the Bilstein rear shocks along with a new pair of the upper spring isolators from FCP Euro. Right at $300 for everything. They should be here in a week or so. Then, probably in early October, Wayne and I are going to take a shot at doing the job ourselves. I'll keep this thread updated as to whether or not the new shocks do indeed silence the rattle that is driving my wife nuts....

 

I'm travelling in the UK and not back in the U.S. until 7th October so no access to my notes but(from memory!)


You don't need to drop the whole A frame(as stated on some blogs I looked at) - just undo the A frame brackets to the front of the rear wheels - it gives you an extra bit of space. Make sure to mark the position of the rear stub axle lower swivel bolt(it's a cam) and also the spacers on either end. Jack the lower shock mount up through the spring with an long socket and secure through the spring with a suitable bolt. You will need slim spring compressors - my standard ones were too bulky - I ended up buying another slim pair from Advance Auto - around $24 I think. The tricky bit is getting the new parts in - buy some really heavy duty zip clips and secure the spring to the top of the spring pan then compress the new shock and secure through the spring with a long bolt - once it's back in position you can cut the zip clips and remove before you take the tension off the spring. BTW the spring compressors need to be at the eight and two O'clock postions - you'll see what I mean when you're in there. I did see one of the techs on here saying it is possible without spring compressors but I couldn't see how that could be done . Sorry if this is a bit rambling but as I said I'm travelling so trying to remember in a hurry! Like most things on a Jaguar it's awkward rather than technically difficult. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your additional input, and safe travels....

 

Jon, I have had my car in the air most of the morning and going over several ways it has been suggested on how to get things out without killing or braking us or parts of the car. I see the only problem is the length of our spring compressor, all the rest is just a few bolts that are very accessible. If the need arises to take the A frame out, it will just have to come out, but after getting the spring out of the seats if there is not enough space by a small amount, we can take the sway loose and gain a little movement on the hubs. Right now we should invite anyone that's in the area to come have a look. No giggling will be allowed..


Wayne

 

I forgot to say unbolt the sway bar - there's also a 19mm bolt inboard of the wheel that is also into the A frame - you really don't need to drop the whole A frame - it will drop down enough to give you quite a bit of clearance if you compress the spring. Assuming you have the lower shock mount secured through the spring that will tend to pull the spring down on to the pigtail seat - use a pry bar to lever it out .The first side took me about five hours but once I'd sussed it I did the second side in about two hours including coffee :0)

 

Batroute, Thanks for the additional info. We should have a good time and don't want to take all day. I did get the right size sockets sorted and as I just did a Caliper paint job, so taking it down to the shock part is a 15 minute job and 7 minutes if I can use air. I don't like using air on the wheels or brakes, just funny that way. (annul)


Wayne
PS, wish I was with you, we could get in a round or two. I spent 5 years just north of London and I loved it.

 

Update:

The two new rear Bilstein shocks arrived the day after I ordered them. The two new rear upper spring isolators arrived two days after I ordered them. This was all via the free shipping option, not an upgraded express shipment....

Kudos to FCP Euro. Great service, great prices, much faster delivery than promised, and they followed up with me to make certain I got what I needed....

 

Update:

I'm driving my wife's XK8 to Wayne's house near Salisbury, NC early Thursday morning (should be about a two-hour trip if my left knee and lower back cooperate and let me make the drive without having to pull over and stretch out). We'll take our best shot at changing the rear shocks and replace the rear brake pads at the same time if they need it. Sure hope this silences the pesky rattle once and for all. Stay tuned....

 

Update:

Many thanks to Wayne for his expertise and effort yesterday. We got the left rear shock changed and new rear brake pads on before we ran out of daylight (and I ran out of knees and lower back). We'll get together again next Thursday and knock out the right rear shock job. Based on what we learned yesterday, it should go much smoother and faster....

As others have said, using skinny, short spring compressors is crucial. So is positioning them in exactly the right spots on the springs because there is simply no room to work up in that wheel well. Getting the old shock assembly out was not too much of an issue once we finally managed to break that rotor free (it's probably never been removed since the day the car was built in May 2005). But getting the new shock assembly in was a backbreaker. Our tie straps holding the upper shock components in place kept stretching and breaking, even the heavy-duty ones that we purchased from the local Advance Auto Parts. But Wayne was persistent and we finally got it in. He came up with the idea of dropping the driveshaft (4 bolts) and that gave us the wiggle room we needed. The rest of it was proper positioning, angles, and leverage....

My advice is this: if you've never worked with shocks before (like me), don't try this at home unless you have an experienced buddy and access to air tools. Experience, proper tools, and problem-solving on the fly are all necessary factors in the equation....

Thanks again, Wayne. I look forward to knocking out that right rear shock job with you next week....

 

Did you not remove the rear hub and swing it to the side?- just wondering because you mention removing the rotor?

 

Thank you Jon, "WHAT A BI...". Batroute, it was our understanding the bottom bolt on the hub housing contained the Cast and Camber settings on the rear wheel and as Jon's car had just been through some major vibration issues after his wife's accident, the best thing to do was leave alone things that could put you back into a bad problem.
Jon, working on a clip for the top shock housing and we will put it all together in the press.


Wayne

 

I've had basically the same kind of rattle and while driving with the wife the other night, I stopped at Mack D's and got her a hamburger. I noticed that while she was eating the thing and with a full mouth, the "rattle" went away. Problem solved!
Chuck
05/XK8 Conv.

 

And he lived to tell about it!!! He would have been right at home with us Jon.


Wayne

 

I want to know if it felt any better after the swap! EVen if just one...My xk is a rattle box and plan on a total bushing replacement. Still feels tight though..And its not the end links as I changed them already

 

Out of interest were the top mounts shot? Any improvement on the rattling noise?

 

Batroute, on the top mount. There was a good amount of wear on the very top mount, about half gone, the one under the plate seemed OK and the large dome one could have been reused with no problem. The two on top of the shock would be good candidates for poly. Now the other side may be a different story. I hate we ran out of time as it's a long trip for Jon, but we had a great day.


Wayne

 

Slowpoke,

My perception on the drive home that just the left rear shock being changed did indeed improve the ride somewhat. But that could have been wishful thinking on my part. At 6-foot-7, I rarely drive this car because I have to fold up like a card table when I do and it kills my football-ravaged knees and lower back....



Batroute,

The rattle was still present during the drive home. But that's because I have always suspected the noise is coming from the right rear shock. Wayne and I will change it next week and I expect to finally bring the rattle saga to a close when we do. We'll see....

 

Congrats Wayne and Jon on the southpaw side. Good luck on the right and as mentioned, hopefully it goes much smoother!

 

Thanks, Rick. Wayne and I missed having you with us this past Thursday. But we certainly understood. When your kids are sick, they have to come first....

Join us this coming Thursday morning if you can. Wayne's maroon 1947 Triumph Roadster convertible is worth the trip all by itself. He has owned it for more than 40 years and it is the pure definition of drop-dead gorgeous. I was stunned speechless when I first saw it and as you know, that is extremely difficult to do....

If you need a bit more motivation, Jan insists on sending one of her custom-made feasts along with me this trip so there will be plenty of great food while we work....