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Removed drained battery,recharged,reinstalled,now no start? Please help

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  #41  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi-Velo-Sid-E
Hi aode06, I think I tried something like that, I got into the driver seat, closed the door and set the alarm with either the remote or by locking the door with the handle, then i tried to start the car with the key and the alarm went off so i stopped it with the remote, i might have tried with the key as well on the second attempt, i don't remember exactly.

I will try it again the way you stated and let you know.

Thanks alot, much appreciated
This didn't look right, so I just checked it out on my car. If I sit in the car and lock the car/set the alarm with the remote, putting the key in the ignition and turning it does not trigger the alarm; it first turns off the alarm with the two chirps, then starts the car. So unless this was changed between your 1999 and my 2006, it would indicate that your car is not programmed to that key, or you somehow damaged the module inside the key or the receiver in the steering column, or the security module has gone bad.

ps. Locking the doors with the inside door handle did not set the alarm on my car.

edit: Since you have just one key: If you are going to have the dealer program the car for your key, it might be a good idea to purchase a second key beforehand so that both keys can be programmed at once, probably for the same price as one key.
 

Last edited by bakntyme; 11-20-2014 at 09:50 PM.
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  #42  
Old 11-21-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by aode06
Circuits are the next step, but we must make sure that YOUR KEY SHUTS OFF THE ALARM SYSTEM,IF IT DOES NOT, YOU WILL NEVER START THAT CAR LOL.
Hi aode06, I was going to try the alarm test today but weather got out of hand, strong winds,, rain, cold, so i will try tomorrow/Saturday instead.

Thanks alot
 
  #43  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus
If you look at the diagram your key activates the starter solenoid the power to turn the starter is direct from the battery. If the fuse feeding the lead to the battery is blown then the starter will not turn. You mentioned that you can hear the clicking near the starter then I would say your power to the solenoid is good. If you look at the diagrams on the no start you will see that the battery power goes directly to the high power fuses then it goes 3 directions one to the trunk fuses another to the engine compartment to both fuse boxes and the last directly to the starter. All of these feeds are protected independently by a fuse and these fuses are located in the trunk look to the right of your tire well. You need to check them.

If you look at the diagram your key activates the starter solenoid the power to turn the starter is direct from the battery. If the fuse feeding the lead to the battery is blown then the starter will not turn.

Hi Gus, I don't have a diagram but where is the fuse of the lead that's going from the battery to the starter?

You mentioned that you can hear the clicking near the starter then I would say your power to the solenoid is good.

I am not 100% sure if that clicking is coming from the starter or the interior passenger side fuse box.

On which side of the engine, and where exactly is the starter located?

If you look at the diagrams on the no start you will see that the battery power goes directly to the high power fuses then it goes 3 directions one to the trunk fuses another to the engine compartment to both fuse boxes and the last directly to the starter.

I followed the battery positive lead and it goes from the battery to where I have seen in the trunk, behind the back seat wall or in front of the spare, there is a black box with a hinged door that looks like inside is a splitter,

and when all seemed to fail to get the starter to turn, I tried to connect the positive jumper cable there instead of at the lead battery end, are there high power fuses in that box, and if so where?

Also, when I tested all the fuses on both side under the hood, i am indeed getting power there since the test light is activating when testing fuses, so does that mean the high power fuses are good?

All of these feeds are protected independently by a fuse and these fuses are located in the trunk look to the right of your tire well. You need to check them.

The fuses in the trunk, in the large black box next to the battery, i have tested multiple times and all seem good.

Thanks alot,
Sid
 

Last edited by Hi-Velo-Sid-E; 11-21-2014 at 07:12 PM.
  #44  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:14 PM
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The 2 fusible links are in the black plastic box just in front of the spare tire. Just follow the plus battery cable to it.




Dave
 
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  #45  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Stumpy
Have you been able to determine if there are any noises/clicks coming from the engine compartment, when you turn the key to the start position ?

Reason I ask is there have been problems with the solenoid on the starter motor. Solenoid clicks but does not energise the motor itself. Can be intermittant.

See here:Technical Information - RepairkitsUK | Starter Motor Repair Kits | Don't Buy a New Start Motor - Repair It

Hi Derek, I am not 100% sure about that, I will try again, but this time I will have someone else turn the key while i check under the hood for the starter click, if any.

Thanks alot, much appreciated
 
  #46  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveInVA
The 2 fusible links are in the black plastic box just in front of the spare tire. Just follow the plus battery cable to it.




Dave

Hi Dave, yes I have seen it but i didn't notice any fuses there, all I saw were all the large black cables bolted onto large screws coming out of the back of the box, but no fuses, what should I be looking for to recognize the fuses and where in the box are they please?


Thanks alot, much appreciated
Sid
 
  #47  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:27 PM
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Look at the no start procedure it has all the info you need then come back and then ask questions.
 
  #48  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi-Velo-Sid-E
Hi Dave, yes I have seen it but i didn't notice any fuses there, all I saw were all the large black cables bolted onto large screws coming out of the back of the box, but no fuses, what should I be looking for to recognize the fuses and where in the box are they please?


Thanks alot, much appreciated
Sid
The fuses are the 2 flat metal links between the studs the cables bolt on to. These are very high amp fuses so they are big.


Dave
 
  #49  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bakntyme
This didn't look right, so I just checked it out on my car. If I sit in the car and lock the car/set the alarm with the remote, putting the key in the ignition and turning it does not trigger the alarm; it first turns off the alarm with the two chirps, then starts the car. So unless this was changed between your 1999 and my 2006, it would indicate that your car is not programmed to that key, or you somehow damaged the module inside the key or the receiver in the steering column, or the security module has gone bad.

ps. Locking the doors with the inside door handle did not set the alarm on my car.

edit: Since you have just one key: If you are going to have the dealer program the car for your key, it might be a good idea to purchase a second key beforehand so that both keys can be programmed at once, probably for the same price as one key.


Hi bakntyme, I tried so many ways that I really don't remember what happened and in which order, I will try again to just simply shut the door, activate the alarm, trigger the alarm and then try to shut it off via the ignition with the key, as Aode06 suggested, and then let everyone know the results, hopefully tomorrow weather permitting.

Thanks alot, much appreciated
Sid
 
  #50  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveInVA
The fuses are the 2 flat metal links between the studs the cables bolt on to. These are very high amp fuses so they are big.


Dave

Hi Dave, yes i did see those, I think there were two, I have never before seen nor had to deal with these kind of fuses.

So how many should there be and how would I know if they are blown or good?


Thanks alot,
Sid
 
  #51  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:44 PM
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There are 2 there and one is for the starter. Usually when those blow its very obvious. Also make sure the connections are tight and not tarnished.


Dave
 
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus
Look at the no start procedure it has all the info you need then come back and then ask questions.
Hi Gus, I did read that no start article from beginning to end, I found it when googling and before i came here for help, but that article didn't quite explain everything I needed and I have exhausted all its suggestions, but I still went back to it again for review when you posted the link to it for me last time.

Thank you, much appreciated
Sid
 
  #53  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveInVA
There are 2 there and one is for the starter. Usually when those blow its very obvious. Also make sure the connections are tight and not tarnished.


Dave
Hi Dave, I am 99% certain that those plates were silver and clean, but i will take a much closer look at them again and make sure all is tight and not tarnished as well, now that I understand they are fuses.

Thanks alot, much appreciated,
Sid
 
  #54  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:55 PM
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It has links to wiring diagrams along with locations that should help.

Originally Posted by Hi-Velo-Sid-E
Hi Gus, I did read that no start article from beginning to end, I found it when googling and before i came here for help, but that article didn't quite explain everything I needed and I have exhausted all its suggestions, but I still went back to it again for review when you posted the link to it for me last time.

Thank you, much appreciated
Sid
 
  #55  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Stamford
If I'm reading correctly, the starter wouldn't turn before you R&'d the battery. It should have turned with the jump start, even if it didn't fire up. These cars are apparently pretty sensitive to jump starting and if you don't follow the recommended procedure, you risk damaging the electrics. Main things to remember: don't let vehicles touch; do not run the booster vehicle as it can cause a spike that can affects things like the instrument pack. Hopefully this is not the case; it's not super common but it happens. First step is to see if there are any codes stored. Good luck.

Hi Stamford, I was wondering if there is any way to pull the code from the onboard computer via the dash system check display, if so would you happen to know how it's done?

Thank you, much appreciated,
Sid
 
  #56  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:02 PM
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This is from the no start procedure

Link to Fuses http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tionModule.jpg
Link to power distribution http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...7PowerDist.jpg
Link to how the starter works http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...AJ27%20N-A.jpg
 

Last edited by Gus; 11-21-2014 at 08:04 PM.
  #57  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
Are you sure your battery has accepted the recharge? It sounds as if you may just have a bad battery.

The jump starter does not provide adequate current to start this car in most cases.

Hi WhiteXKR, as you know i reported back the battery test results that seemed to indicate that the battery is okay, I was wondering, is it possible that the test would not pick up on a short inside the battery?

I know that years ago I had a bad battery with a short in it that would cause a drained battery symptom, no start, it even caused a second battery to drain because I had 2 batteries in that car, when I removed the battery with the short the good battery was jumped and I was on my way, so maybe the battery test I posted about here earlier this week may have not reported that, and i should maybe take the battery out of my family van to try to start the Jag, or would i be wasting my time with that train of thought?

Thank you, much appreciated,
Sid
 
  #58  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gus
This is from the no start procedure

Link to Fuses http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tionModule.jpg
Link to power distribution http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...7PowerDist.jpg
Link to how the starter works http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...AJ27%20N-A.jpg

Hi Gus, thanks for the links !

The first shows the high power fuse box and it is stated there are 3 fuses, but is that so for the 99 XK8 as well?
I ask because I recall seeing 2 and Dave said there are 2 as well.

The second link show the diagram, i have now printed the wiring diagram, it shows the positive battery lead going to a stud then to the starter, so that usually means that I should be able to simply turn the ignition key to the forward position, system check, and then make the starter turn to start the car by using a screw driver to link the solanoid, not sure which color wired post, with the positive lead post of the starter right?

Or is it just the 2 solanoid posts, it's been a couple of decades or so since I did that procedure, so which are the 2 I would connect with the screw driver to turn the starter, just double checking.

In the third links picture i am noticing on that diagram that there is a relay, so from my experience, if the relay went bad then it would cause the exact problem i am experiencing, a possible click but no starting, right?

So i would have to check to confirm if its the starter or the relay clicking, but to accomplish that i would need to know where the relay and starter are located under the hood, i would need a more detailed explanation than the approximate location depicted on the diagram.

Also depending on which is easier to access, the relay or starter, the relay may be and usually is the easier way to manually activate the starter right?


Thanks alot, much appreciated,
Sid
 

Last edited by Hi-Velo-Sid-E; 11-21-2014 at 08:48 PM.
  #59  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi-Velo-Sid-E
Hi WhiteXKR, as you know i reported back the battery test results that seemed to indicate that the battery is okay, I was wondering, is it possible that the test would not pick up on a short inside the battery?

I know that years ago I had a bad battery with a short in it that would cause a drained battery symptom, no start, it even caused a second battery to drain because I had 2 batteries in that car, when I removed the battery with the short the good battery was jumped and I was on my way, so maybe the battery test I posted about here earlier this week may have not reported that, and i should maybe take the battery out of my family van to try to start the Jag, or would i be wasting my time with that train of thought?

Thank you, much appreciated,
Sid
Given the test results, I say it is unlikely, there is a problem in the battery...but not impossible. My guess is that the jump starting damaged one of the electronic modules or the starter has a problem.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 11-21-2014 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:01 PM
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Also, you said way back you had checked all the fuses. There are five fuseboxes (each side of the dash, trunk, under the hood drivers side, and under the hood passenger side near the ECU). That one near the ECU is often overlooked...did you check that one also?
 


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