JAGUAR XK8 2002. just picked this vehicle. Was running rough moved air box around and it would run good. The air pipe from the throttle body had electric tape around it so i ordered a new one installed it now it runs worse than before. Friend had a diagnostic tool scanned it says it was running lean and random midfire. When he cleared the code it ran like never before lot more power no bogging. Ran for a little while.then back to bogging.took my friends advice pull the plugs each one had oil around top of plug they were bosch plugs. Ton of carbon build up.
So i ordered and installed coil pack of 8 installed
Them and Ngk plugs. Only to get worse results.
Scan tools reads misfie on all cylinders p1316 p1697
P1000 .did not clean up oil in spark plugs well just installed. Need help in trying to determine cause and fix any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for you all help

 

Welcome to the forums endurance,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XK8/XKR forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

The breather PCV tube that plugs into the intake can also crack/suck air after the MAF.

 

Oil in the plug wells means you need to change the cam cover gaskets. While there, see if it has plastic body chain tensioners.

 

Ok i installed a new plastic tube
There is a hair line crack in the air filter box.
Jusr dont understand how it can run really good
Then poorly. Had it on the rack to see if there was any blockage from the exhaust. There were no leaks and exhaust coming out of the tail pipes. Reason for taking it in was odor of carbon monoxide. Just wondering would the 02r sensor contribute to it. Or possibly the ecm. Any ideas would be a great help. Had a code p1000

 

By the way thank you for moving the post to the right section i appreciate it. New here

 

If I remember right the P1000 code is purely a self diagnostic code to say every thing in the diagnostics system is working ok.

As for bad running see if you can borrow a MAF and try that. The black corrugated pipe there cracks so easily too. If it was cracked after the MAF then the MAF would give false readings to the system.

Take at look at these postings click me
and also Click Here too.

 

P1000 simply means that the car hasn’t been driven enough to run full diagnostic cycle.

P1697 is a cruise control problem.

P1316 is that your emissions exceed limits probably due to some engine problems.

geez. I’m confused too. Tackle each problem separately. Others already said to tackle a possible vacuum leak in the air intake. If that’s okay, check breather hoses then throttle body

 

Thanks Guys for all of the suggestions. I also have a low coolant level flashing. However when i open the cap i see fluid. The other thing is the radiator hose is collapsed when motor is off when motor runs it opens up and circulates. I like to drain the old coolant and flush because its green and not orange
Just can not find the drain plug on the radiator. Next will a weak battery affect the opperation of the car

 

a suggestion for new posters and our moderators. thread titles must be somewhat descriptive for immediate identification and for future searching. in the immediate if someone is scanning the threads and feels that a contribution is possible, then he can do so. without proper titles, it is not so easy.

 

Thanks for bringing that to my attention this is my first time posting

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

welcome to the boards. no worries, you are not the first nor the last to title this way. good luck with the car.

 

K thanks!

 

Endurance, collapsed houses have been fixed with new coolant resivour cap IME.

John

 

Hey john thanks by the way do you know where the drain for
The radiator is located

 

Radiator drain plug might be hidden behind the plastic ducting piece that funnels air to the alternator cooling C duct. Simple 7mm bolt to undo to remove the plastic ducting and you should be able to see the bottom RHS of the radiator.

 

To be upfront, there is debate about this radiator plug. This is a plastic plug on an aging plastic end tank. See if it comes off easy. If not, drain the system some other way. These radiators are not expensive, but there is no need to precipitate a replacement because the plug does not seal anymore. Also, check the VehicleSpec Book on jagrepair.com for the proper cooling fluid for your VIN. It has changed over the years, and the different types are not compatible with each other (mixing them reputedly gels and clogs everything up).

If you are looking at several air leaks, do yourself a favor and buy or build yourself a smoke machine. There are many path for air leaks on this engine, and blindly replacing parts gets expensive very quickly. Some of these air leaks can come from the less obvious places, like the dipstick and VVT seals.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

PS: spend a minute and update your signature line so folks have an easy way to identify your car and help you better.

 

^^ What he said. I always drain the coolant by pumping out the reservoir with a hand pump, then pulling a lower hose to drain the rest of it.. Far too risky to attempt to loosen that nearly 14-year-old plastic drain plug....