I have a problem getting this car ready for smog. The battery was allowed to run down, and I have been driving it to get systems to reset. It is taking way too long.

My scanner is a c-reader viii, and it does great on abs faults but doesn't do the readiness test ( at least I haven' t figured out how to do it). I took it to my friendly smog guy, and he says it is the "Comprehensive" something or other, and the O2 test that are not complete.

I suspect a coil, because I noticed a lump in the engine on startup, but it goes away when warm. I'm not sure how to pinpoint which one it might be.

I read in another thread that there is info on these tests in the jtis, but I can't find it.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

I can't find info in JTIS specific to the 1999MY. However, here's some info I put together about Service Drive Cycles in response to a similar question on another forum:

You can just drive and eventually all OnBoard Monitoring test will complete .........
......... OR you can do systematic 'Drive Cycles' to complete them in minimum time and mileage.

Here are the complete 'drive cycle' procedures for each of the OnBoard Monitoring Tests. Use the appropriate cycle(s) to prepare the vehicle for test.

OBD DIAGNOSTIC MONITORS
The six diagnostic monitors are:
1. Heated Oxygen Sensors Monitor
2. Adaptive Fuel Monitor
3. Misfire Monitor
4. Catalyst Efficiency Monitor
5. Evaporative System Monitor
6. Comprehensive Component Monitor (Engine Management / Transmission)


1. HEATED OXYGEN SENSORS MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
Upstream (Universal) oxygen sensors:
1. Engine OFF; cooling fans inoperative > 20 seconds.
2. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
3. Drive the vehicle between 3000 – 4000 rpm at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast to a stop within 30 seconds. Do not touch accelerator pedal for 4 seconds after coming to a stop.
4. Repeat step 3.
5. Idle engine for 11 minutes.

Downstream oxygen sensors:
1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes.
3. Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.

Oxygen sensor heaters:
1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Idle engine for 3 minutes.

2. ADAPTIVE FUEL MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Idle for a minimum of 10 minutes.

3. MISFIRE MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
1. Record flagged DTC (s) and accompanying WDS DTC Monitor freeze frame(s) data.
2. Fuel level > 25%.
3. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
4. Drive vehicle to the recorded freeze frame conditions (from step 1).
5. Repeat several times.

Note regarding misfire monitor DTCs:
If on the first trip, the misfire is severe enough to cause excess exhaust emission, the individual cylinder DTC plus DTC P1316 will be logged. The CHECK ENGINE MIL will not be activated. If the fault reoccurs on the second trip, the individual cylinder DTC plus DTC P1316 will be flagged and the CHECK ENGINE MIL will be activated.

If on the first trip, the misfire is severe enough to cause catalyst damage (more severe than excess exhaust emission), the CHECK ENGINE MIL will flash while the fault is present and the individual cylinder DTC plus DTC P1313 (bank 1), DTC P1314 (bank 2) will be logged. When the fault is no longer present the MIL will be deactivated.

If the fault reoccurs on the second trip, the CHECK ENGINE MIL will flash while the fault is present and the individual cylinder DTC plus DTC P1313 (bank 1), DTC P1314 (bank 2) will be flagged. When the fault is no longer present the CHECK ENGINE MIL will be activated.

4. CATALYST EFFICIENCY MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive vehicle steadily between 1700 – 2500 rpm for 5 minutes.

5. EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE
1. Ensure that fuel filler cap is fully closed (minimum three clicks).
2. Fuel level > 30% and < 85%.
3. Using WDS, perform ECM DTC Clear (even if no DTCs are flagged).
4. Drive vehicle for a minimum of 2 minutes, and until engine is at normal operating temperature.
5. Using WDS, ensure that the EVAP Canister Purge Valve is operating by observing “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”. If the valve is not active, ECM adaptions have not been learned. Conduct a “green ECM” Drive Cycle as described in Technical Service Bulletin.
6. Drive vehicle to the road where the EVAP System Drive Cycle will be conducted. Stop vehicle and switch OFF the ignition. Leave ignition OFF for 30 seconds then restart the engine.
7. Accelerate briskly to 80 km/h (50 mph) ensuring that the engine speed reaches a minimum of 3500 rpm for a minimum of 5 seconds.
8. (0.040 inch EVAP Test) View WDS “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”, and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”. Avoiding high engine loads, drive the vehicle steadily between 65 km/h (40 mph) and 100 km/h (60 mph). Avoid driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel movement. WDS should give an indication that the test is active (it may take up to 30 minutes before the test will initialize). When the test has initialized (EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90 seconds for the test to complete.
9. (0.020 inch EVAP Test) Continue driving vehicle as explained in Step 8 for an additional 10 minutes.
10. Gently coast the vehicle to a stop. Allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes and view WDS “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER
CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”, and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”. WDS should give an indication that the test is active. When the test has initialized (EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90 seconds for the test to complete.
11. If the 0.020 inch EVAP Test is not activated, the purge system vapor concentration may be too great. To reduce the vapor concentration proceed as follows:
12. Drive the vehicle for an additional 30 minutes avoiding driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel movement. Repeat Step 10. If the 0.020 inch EVAP Test is still not activated, repeat the Drive Cycle from Step 6.
13. Using WDS, check for and clear flagged DTCs.

6. COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT DRIVE CYCLE
To avoid unnecessary complexity, a single comprehensive engine management drive cycle has not been developed. Refer to the individual DTC for specific drive cycle / monitoring conditions.

Graham

 

I'd get a cheap OBD tool that can read the status and also live data so you can check a bunch of values. Life's too short to struggle with one that isn't adequate.

 

Thanks, Graham. I already found this after I made the original post. The first step worked for me and I got the P1111 immediately. As for the scanner I have, it isn't as cheap as some that do the readiness test. The reason I bought it is it will read and reset abs faults, which none of the cheap ones will do. I'm going to buy a creader VI, which will show which systems aren't ready.

Brett

Brett

 

My issue is the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor Drive Cycle.

I love what you say, but I have done this 19 times and can't get it to clear. Is there anything about the end of the 5 minutes? Like should I coast to a stop, then let it Idle for 3 minutes, 11 minutes? Should I drive all in gear like 3rd to keep the RPMs constant? Does putting a brake on in the middle of the 5 minutes cause a failure? Can I use cruise control for the steady speed? Must I start the car cold to bring it to temp, then drive the 5 minutes and stop? Do I avoid using the accelerator after the end of 5 minutes?

 

I don't think any of those really matter anything like as much as the car overall seeing enough plausible values from such as O2 sensors (& the other critical sensors: ECT, IAT, MAF, ...).

I imagine poor cats would result in poor readings.

You can monitor the actual sensor values for clues

 

JagV8 (and anyone else),

Conceptually you are correct, however, those points like; do I coast for 30 seconds to a stop after the 5 minute run, or do I shut off the motor after the stop, or do I wait to accelerate for 5 seconds after the complete stop, could be important. The key is when the computer logs the test drive as complete. Having just two line items for the drive cycle does not seem complete to me. The computer programmer that wrote the code for the test parameters needs to identify some event to trigger logging the test results into the ODB memory. It may simply be time. After 5 minutes, it's over and the result is logged or not logged. Or after 5 consecutive minutes of maintaining 1700-2500 RPM the result is logged. I did find somewhere that the Jag does need to be shut off (key pulled) after each test, as the engine only runs one test per drive cycle.

I was asking the question because now, after doing no drive cycles to allow the test to run, after totally passing the California smog test, meaning everything is great, suddenly trying to do one drive cycle, the last and most important one that deals with the chemical reactions of the combustion in the cat, it doesn't work. And I repeat the test now about 45 times, and it still fails. Over 800 miles, 6-8 minutes at a time.

What is it that they say,....Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results...?

A nearby Jag expert offered an interesting observation on this. Suddenly, during this 2022-2023 winter season, the last 2 months, he has seen multiple cars that could not pass the Cat Converter drive cycle. All were older cars like mine,1999 or so vintages. And different models. Why? We are speculating that it may have something to do with the ethanol blended into the gasoline. In Caly, all gasoline is E10 premium gasoline. Meaning the gas can have up to 10% ethanol. Other states vary from 10% to 0%. The government (EPA) wants to go to 15% ethanol. The mandate to allow 15% may have been approved. In the literature from the last 3 years on this, they state that 15% should not harm the 2001 and newer vehicles. So what does that mean for the pre-2001 vehicles? That it will harm them?

One article stated that there may be environmental issues, that it would harm rubber components, and some other warnings. So this leads me the question, (keep in mind, this is California, land of the electric car), has the ethanol that is being added changed in some way with these last year fuel and crude oil issues? Has more ethanol been added to reduce the price of gasoline from the refiners, yesterday at $5.12 at a cheap station? Or is 10% on the cusp of failure, but 11% over for the failure and changed combustion? Or did I buy some bad gas...or is this just a conspiracy theory....when you just spent 20 hours in solitude in your car, while some may call it relaxation, I call it Bordering on the Exorcist.

I am trying to find some ethanol free gasoline, or E5 in the area to test. Seems like it is only available at marinas for 2 cycle engines.

Bruce
99 Jag, 4L, 8 cyl. cat converter from hell car.

 

E10 has been here (UK) for years. Monitors set quickly.

But if you have a 99 car, and only 4.0, maybe it has an older PCM type. It would likely be even less sophisticated, however.

A drive cycle often needs to be a "warm up" i.e. engine must heat from some minimum ("cold") by at least some threshold. I don't know those values for your car's software.

However, endlessly repeating things isn't likely to work. Probably something is wrong or marginal. If you have any pending codes, they would be hints. If not, watch OBD live data and hope to see something.

Failing that, check the cats - you can check the temp drop front-to-rear, look inside with borescope (thin camera), etc.