You have a 2001 (14 yr old, I've mentioned miles are only relevant in certain ways) and you'll have to decide when you want to get your hands dirty or hit the ATM. Not knowing your mechanical skill set these cars need TLC but will return in favor a great feeling when driving. Mine had 44k miles and not a spec of rust but I could list a dozen maint items I've performed as well as several 'mods' like power ant switch/rear window switch/ Real gauge etc.

Do you know if you have metal secondary tensioners? If not this is a must maint item and if your not mechanically inclined you will need to have this done by someone as well (sooner than later) there are many warnings thread on this issue. The reason I mention this is you may have to pick and choose what you're willing to do vs a shop to save some $. The sleeve replacement isn't much more than changing oil in a car, getting the sleeve in and out is a bit tricky because of the Cat proximity to the plug but it's easily doable.

If you decide to do it, start a new thread with a appropriate title to receive help.

 

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but man enough to know my limits, LOL.
I can do plugs, brakes, belts etc... This transmission is a tad over my level with the procedures and tools needed.
I have a price of $275.00 to replace the connector part, and change trans fluid, and filter. I'm thinking SOLD !
I am also going to make sure the tensioner is updated and thanks for the tip !

 

Just ensure they use the proper rated Transmission fluid! This is very important to the proper function of the transmission. There are threads on this issue and check your owners manual. The MBenz fluid is pricey but there are some others, I personally went with MB.

Heres a parts kit Mercedes 722 6xx Transmission Filter Gasket 13 Pin Connector Adapter Plug | eBay (note this is probably 'after market')

 

Yes ! that fluid is crazy money....$15.52 a quart and they need 8 quarts. Plus an additive , something about sutter fix? thats another $ 18.
I sure hope the Mercedes parts swap with this ? They claim its the same trans.

I am still puzzled about your reference to the secondary tension. Where is this located? its different from the one for the main belt drive?
Thank you

 

"Spark plug confusion", I know I'm old but now totally confused as to where the spark plugs fit in the transmission

 

In the DIY stickies there's some links:

. Primary and secondary tensioner replacement Thanks to Matt (H20boy)
. Story of secondary tensioner failure and broken timing chain] (XJ section, but same 4.0 engine)]
Secondary tensioner change Zip Tie Method EZDriver

a search of the forum will provide a winters worth of reading on the subject and experience of forum members. Here's a pic of one (not mine). The initial 2 versions used a plastic housing that wore due to stress, 3rd generation use metal.

As far as tran fluid I only needed 4 liters, since you don't really remove all the fluid in the transmission and torque converter only about half. You measure what you drained and refill with a little added for spills, There is also access to fill in the engine bay, no dipstick to measure which you can buy or fabricate (your mechanic will need to do this as well)

 

HAHA we kinda got off on a tangent from plugs to transmissions and now to tensioners.. I'm sure we'll hit the suspension and others soon:

 

Yes I agree. We all know that new plugs will reduce brake dust dramatically.

 

Does anybody have any feedback on the Autolite XP3923 iridium plugs on a 2000 xkr?
I got them on offer from local store but they were unable to shed any light on gaps as they were not for a Ford or Chevy.
Any feedback would be appreciated before I start fitting them.

 

0.050" according to Autolite.

 

Believe the .050 is close. Read through the TSB's on Gus's site and saw a bulletin indicating .052. The .002 difference should be no problem. It is very difficult to re-gap an Iridum plug and not damage the electrode or wire. These were applicable to my 2003 XK8.