I've never used the left side of the J-gate before but tried it in '5'. Didn't seem to make a difference. TBH, I have no idea what the purpose of the left side is.

 

My V8 KIA Borrego has the ZF 6 speed and it functions in the manner that you describe. When moving up through the gear ratios if you let off the accelerator it remains in that gear and does feel like it is dragging but it is only the engine friction in the lower gear. Especially noticeable when topping a hill in less than top gear. Programming for many American cars is to go to the higher gears but not this one.

 

At last count this thread has had 463 views. Not one XK8 owner has said their car behaves the same way. The motor (transmission) literally wants to bring the car to a halt. That isn't normal and if it is I'll have a lovely '05 Seafrost/Tan XK8 for sale very soon.

 

Mediabouny, I'm trying my best to try and understand what your saying, so let's go over the hand brake again? I asked if when you apply the hand brake, if it feels like it's engaging right away, or does it move freely up about 4 " or so before you feel resistance. I think your telling me that it moves freely up about 4" before you feel resistance.

On my 05/XK8, as soon as I pull up on the handle---maybe an inch---I begin to feel resistance, then continue pulling to set the brake. Later, only after I have previously set the brake, does it move freely up about 4". At that point I must pull up on the handle just a little and PUSH IN on the black button to release the brake. I must hold in on the button to lower it all the way down.

From your comment, you can see why I'm not sure what your telling us. If you have to move the handle up about 4 or 5". I think the brake is still
applied.

I wish we were closer (I live in Panama City) I would let you drive my car to compare.

Second note. The left side of the shifter (2-3-4-5) is there for you to use
as a manual transmission. Put the shifter in what gear you want (2-3-4-5) and the transmission will stay in that gear AFTER it up shifts to that gear. Example: Put it in 3 and as you drive away, the transmission will up shift through gears 1&2, but then will stay in 3 until you select a higher gear.
You said that you tried moving the shifter from drive to position 5 and didn't see any difference. If your speed wasn't above 40-45 mph, the transmission was already in the #5 gear and hadn't shifted to overdrive (or 6th gear yet).

Example #2: When driving down the road, in "D" at normal speeds, if you want some real drag (say in a panic stop) slap the shifter into the (left side) then into numbers (2-3-4 or 5) and the transmission will go to the gear you selected--NOW! So down shift with caution. Works great in the mountains for downshifting, but here in Florida the closest you'll get to mountains around here would be in the Tallahassee area---really just Hills.

Keep us posted
Chuck
XK8 vert CF 1 of 200

 

Certainly sounds like the e-brake or binding caliper. I'm and others here are curious to get the answer once you get it.

Good luck because I know how little bugs can run you crazy.

 

Hi,
If the car coasts freely in neutral, then this cant be a binding handbrake surely. It very much sounds like a transmission fault, lets hope someone can shed some light on possible causes that could create the symptoms as described.
Best of Luck
Steveeasy

 

Hi again,
I did have an electrical problem with the alternator a while back, this made the transmission fault light come on. when I drove the car the symptoms were similar. Just another perspective, but it could just be some sort of electrical problem that is causing this. probably not but just an idea.

Steveasy

 

LOL - that's what I've been trying to say all along! It absolutely, positively has nothing to do with handbrakes, stuck calipers, or anything else brake related.

NOW - drumroll please - my next post will recap my meeting with the techs down at Palm Beach Jaguar today.

 

Ding ding ding. Bingo! Kudos to 'jamdmyers'. I had a chat and test drive with two techs at the dealership today. At least one of them actually listened to what I was saying. He remarked as to what nice condition the car was in - like new. I replied that I got lucky - it had one previous owner - a woman. So both techs go back to have their back room caucus to discuss the matter. One of them comes out and says maybe the woman drove like a little old lady. He proposes that I set up an appointment next week to have the (and here's where I'm sure I'll lose something in the translation) old codes cleared out so that the car can learn my driving. He might also have used the word 'reset'.
So that's where we stand at the moment. Can anyone comment as to what this might/should cost me?

 

The XK8 does learn from your or previous owners driving habits and adapts accordingly. However to do a hard reset (not sure if this clears the codes however) you simply disconnect the battery. Negative first, then positive. Leave the car in that state for say 20 minutes, then touch positive to neutral cables without touching the battery, and then reconnect the battery, positive first then negative. You will need to re-enter the radio code and re-program the windows as they wont close properly. To do this you need to lower the drivers window and keep the button down until you hear a faint click. Raise the window and keep the button depressed until you hear the faint click again. Do the same with the passenger window. The car will now "learn" your driving style and set up gearbox, ignition timing and throttle response to the way you drive. This will cost you nothing but your time, but an opportunity to reset the cars past and let it learn the way you want it to behave based on your driving style. Hope this helps my friend

 

Thanks for this! - I'll certainly give it a try. And I'll probably leave it in this state overnight just to make sure its memory gets wiped.
You say:"...then touch positive to neutral cables without touching the battery"
I assume you mean touch positive to *negative* cables, correct?
The battery is located under the trunk floor where the spare tire is?

 

Yes the battery is under the trunk floor. And with both cables disconnected from the battery touch them to each other and that discharges the decoupling capacitors in the modules so any codes not stored in non-volatile memory get erased. This makes the modules relearn driving habits. If the car is driven very non aggressively the car will learn to be sluggish and the opposite is also true.


Dave

 

Thanks. But even in its present state I wouldn't call the car sluggish (in terms of acceleration). It's the molasses under the hood that want to pull it to a stop after acceleration that's the problem.

 

Not beating the brake bit to death, do this. Driving driving along, say at 40mph with the cruise control on, slowly raise the brake handle until you get some warning lights. Tell me what lights you get--if any and what is the warning message in the message center?

Chuck 05/XK8

 

Make sure to vary your driving style it keeps the car on it's toes! Good Luck

 

Hi, yes I meant touch positive to negative cable with the battery not connected. I am an electrical engineer and sometime my words cross over between automotive and mains electrics. Apologies for that. Yes the battery is in the boot on the right hand side. You will need an 8 or 10mm spanner to remove the terminals. To be extra cautious I put each lead in a sock with a rubber band round it to prevent it shorting with the bodywork until all is disconnected. If you use a socket set make sure it does not touch the bodywork,particularly with the positive when undoing the battery clamp nut. Touching the positive and negative according to the previous post should clear codes. The car will behave differently to start with, and then drive to your chosen style. From your posts I cannot see a brake binding problem if it coasts in neutral. Hope this resolves your problems

 

You typically just take off the positive cable and touch it to the negative pole on the battery. As long as the positive pole isn't connected to anything there is nothing to short out. It doesn't hurt to take both off but there is a slight risk you might put them on backwards which would be problematic. I've had to do this a number of times.

 

Just sticking my nose in as a curious bystander, but let me ask what is observed on the tachometer as the car drags itself to a halt.

If it's the transmission using engine drag to slow the car, this should show as higher than normal revs on the tach.

 

I've followed this thread with interest, and have appreciated enderle's inputs and thoughts on many other threads, but would like to correct this statement.

Please follow common automotive procedures and always remove the negative cable from the battery first. Think about it - when you attempt to remove the positive cable first, and touch your wrench against the frame of the car anywhere while doing so, you will have a direct short circuit unprotected by any fuse. Best case you'll draw a spark and jerk the wench away immediately. Worst case, you'll pull your hand away leaving the wrench making contact. Very bad things can happen.

For the reset procedure, it is sufficient to remove the negative cable from the battery and touch it to the positive cable while still connected to the positive battery terminal. If you're at all unsure of the procedure, take off both cables!

Steve

 

Hey all,
Thanks for all your comments. At the moment I've got an intermittent 'low engine coolant' warning on the message center, so until I get this sorted at the dealer on Monday, any futher testing with regard to the drag problem will have to wait. If you read my first post you'll note that I mentioned overheating, which was preceeded by precisly this 'low engine coolant' warning. So I'm taking it seriously