1997 XK8 won't start
#22
Who thinks this stuff up..
You really have to wonder, the engine wiring harness is a convoluted mess and located in a place where the only way to to get decent access is to remove something mechanical first. Unless you have the hands of a capuchin monkey (or possibly a ten year old girl). So far I spent hours on my back, still more time trying from above, and now I am seriously considering removing the Throttle body just to improve my access... just to release one connector..
I once owned a first Generation Chevy Monza and had to remove the exhaust manifolds to change the plugs and release engine mounts and lift the enginge to change a starter, so I thought I had seen it all..
Apparently those very same capuchin monkeys ARE the design engineers at most auto manufacturers. I love the car, but if I was alone with the engineer responsible for this I could not guarantee he would survive the meeting..
OK: gripe session over.. Still couldn't disengage the connector.
I once owned a first Generation Chevy Monza and had to remove the exhaust manifolds to change the plugs and release engine mounts and lift the enginge to change a starter, so I thought I had seen it all..
Apparently those very same capuchin monkeys ARE the design engineers at most auto manufacturers. I love the car, but if I was alone with the engineer responsible for this I could not guarantee he would survive the meeting..
OK: gripe session over.. Still couldn't disengage the connector.
#23
Progress at last..
I just finished installing the rotary switch (als called Neutral safety switch in places). The car started right up as soon as it was in place..
I still have a trans problem to deal with, but the no-start issue is resolved. The odd part is this: the car initially presented no obvious codes for this switch. The dealer got a transmission slip code and gave me a really high esitmate (over $14K including hoses, cables, brakes, with the replacemetn trans at about $10K). I started this excursion with trans codes of 1730 and 1722 and a car in limp mode. I intended to go through the inexpensive items listed as causes first which were linkage adjustment and trans fluid levels, but I got home and parked the car on ramps and it would no longer start...
The whole painful no start process is outlined in this thread, but for those of you who are looking at a cranking and no start problem I have a new diagnostic tip. Use NOID lights or ask a mechanic to do it for you.. If you only see a single pulse on the NOID lights you may be looking at a start inhibit problem caused by this switch. From what I read some people are lucky and can jiggle the shifter and get started, but I was not that lucky.
Anyway, I am back to dealing with the Trans problem I started with. The Jag references recommend linkage adjustment after replacing this switch, so I just went through the process outlined in TSB 307-01.
For those who are interested, replacing this switch is a royal pain. There is little or no clearance to work anywhere. I suspect the reason dealers charge massive labor charges to do it is because they probably remove the exhaust and possibly the throttle body to 'make' some clearance. If you are lucky enough to have small nimble hands and long forearms this is probably a snap.. What I ultimately did to make a bit more clerance was disconnect the main engine wiring harness connector on the driver side. That gave me just enough clearance to work by feel. I could not see and work at the same time (rotten big hands). The connector itself has a locking clip on the back side facing the firewall that must be 'lifted' away from the connector body to disengage the lock. The replacement switch did not have a 'clip' to lock it ont the wiring harness so that had to be removed from the old switch and re-used. The cable from the switch to the connector goes through two guides that sit on the top edges of the transmission, it is quite hard to get the cable into them with the exhaust in place. Just a lot of fun all around I would say. If I ran a professional shop I would hire one very tiny person just to handle these jobs, the cable itself is about 14-16 inches long, but getting it all in place for large fellows is a major pain in the bollocks..
I still have a trans problem to deal with, but the no-start issue is resolved. The odd part is this: the car initially presented no obvious codes for this switch. The dealer got a transmission slip code and gave me a really high esitmate (over $14K including hoses, cables, brakes, with the replacemetn trans at about $10K). I started this excursion with trans codes of 1730 and 1722 and a car in limp mode. I intended to go through the inexpensive items listed as causes first which were linkage adjustment and trans fluid levels, but I got home and parked the car on ramps and it would no longer start...
The whole painful no start process is outlined in this thread, but for those of you who are looking at a cranking and no start problem I have a new diagnostic tip. Use NOID lights or ask a mechanic to do it for you.. If you only see a single pulse on the NOID lights you may be looking at a start inhibit problem caused by this switch. From what I read some people are lucky and can jiggle the shifter and get started, but I was not that lucky.
Anyway, I am back to dealing with the Trans problem I started with. The Jag references recommend linkage adjustment after replacing this switch, so I just went through the process outlined in TSB 307-01.
For those who are interested, replacing this switch is a royal pain. There is little or no clearance to work anywhere. I suspect the reason dealers charge massive labor charges to do it is because they probably remove the exhaust and possibly the throttle body to 'make' some clearance. If you are lucky enough to have small nimble hands and long forearms this is probably a snap.. What I ultimately did to make a bit more clerance was disconnect the main engine wiring harness connector on the driver side. That gave me just enough clearance to work by feel. I could not see and work at the same time (rotten big hands). The connector itself has a locking clip on the back side facing the firewall that must be 'lifted' away from the connector body to disengage the lock. The replacement switch did not have a 'clip' to lock it ont the wiring harness so that had to be removed from the old switch and re-used. The cable from the switch to the connector goes through two guides that sit on the top edges of the transmission, it is quite hard to get the cable into them with the exhaust in place. Just a lot of fun all around I would say. If I ran a professional shop I would hire one very tiny person just to handle these jobs, the cable itself is about 14-16 inches long, but getting it all in place for large fellows is a major pain in the bollocks..
Last edited by bigdude; 08-19-2010 at 02:09 PM.
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The Coupe (11-24-2016)
#24
Rats it's me again !
Now I just got the car up on four points so I can check the trans fluid level.. I am having a devil of a time getting the fill plug out. I broke one allen wrench on it already and it did not even budge. Before I go truly harsh on it I wanted to make certain this was normal.. I know it has never been removed in the car's 70K miles, but should the fill plug require a lot of force to remove ?
Am I correct that the fill plug is the plug found just above the lip of the pan on the rear driver side corner of the transmission body [LH Drive] ?
I am about to go get a allen head for a large 'breaker bar', but I wanted to make sure I'm not just barking up the wrong tree.
Now I just got the car up on four points so I can check the trans fluid level.. I am having a devil of a time getting the fill plug out. I broke one allen wrench on it already and it did not even budge. Before I go truly harsh on it I wanted to make certain this was normal.. I know it has never been removed in the car's 70K miles, but should the fill plug require a lot of force to remove ?
Am I correct that the fill plug is the plug found just above the lip of the pan on the rear driver side corner of the transmission body [LH Drive] ?
I am about to go get a allen head for a large 'breaker bar', but I wanted to make sure I'm not just barking up the wrong tree.
#26
Yes, I looked at that one, but they show the fill plug on the 'back' side so it's exact location is not clear. I felt all over teh casing and I think I have the right one, but it just won't budge so far.
I have a recommednation for a reputable local trans shop that said they could inspect and rebuild this transmission as needed (for far less than the dealership wanted for a replacement). I think now that it will 'limp' again I will see if they have any time available to drop the pan and check for metal. I was really hoping to find something simple and avoid the shop, but I think my patience has now reached its limit and it's time for the pro's..
I have a recommednation for a reputable local trans shop that said they could inspect and rebuild this transmission as needed (for far less than the dealership wanted for a replacement). I think now that it will 'limp' again I will see if they have any time available to drop the pan and check for metal. I was really hoping to find something simple and avoid the shop, but I think my patience has now reached its limit and it's time for the pro's..
#27
#28
Several may differ with me but let’s see where this goes. You say you have fuel and spark, do you know if the Throttle Body (TB) has been changed? You may want to check the TB plugs http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepTB.htm . I just recently went on a trip and the car died. Went to the TB and moved the plugs and it started and continued down the road. If this is not the solution I would suggest you look at the cylinder washing http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNoStart.htm . I am not sure that the codes you are getting are sympathetic faults and they will take you on a long trip. As for the starter fluid I would not use in on my car. I have heard several people mention possible problems that it could cause if used so I stay away from it.
I should also mention the shifter “P”, “N” locations, check your relays are seated properly and plugs and also check the fuse bus in the trunk and see if the block is broken. I know of two cars that the fuse block prevented the car from starting. Note; before you start messing with it disconnect the battery.
I should also mention the shifter “P”, “N” locations, check your relays are seated properly and plugs and also check the fuse bus in the trunk and see if the block is broken. I know of two cars that the fuse block prevented the car from starting. Note; before you start messing with it disconnect the battery.
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