Hello. I am as new as new gets, here. Just joined. But I'm going to jump right in and hope for the best.

I just purchased a 2002 Jaguar Convertible XK8, 120,000 miles, from a dear friend who's health has failed. He basically gave me the car with the condition that I "breath life into her" and get her "purrrrring" again! He took good care of her while he could. I am determined. Determined for myself (its a beautiful machine) and equally,,, to give a sense of satisfaction to my friend who adored the car while he could.

The car runs, will start by just turning key and idle, roughly. When driving is worse than sluggish with a "girgggly" feeling. The car sat both indoors and outdoors for 3 yrs (50/50) but body and more is in beautiful shape visually. I love IT already. I can tell it really only needs some love, sweat, attention and $$$. I really want and have to to keep the $$$ down to a min,,, having no shortage of love, sweat and a willingness to pay her in attention. NO,,, Im not a rich man by any means.

I've worked on (much simpler) cars all my life. Well since 16 and a 1/2, and THIS is a complex car! But I am smart, capable and pick things up pretty quick with a broad understanding of auto systems and the "needs" of gas powered internal combustion engines and bodies. And yes, I'm determined.

So I'll jump in. I brought the car to a local mechanic and he plugged it in. Skerd the hell out of me at first me, lol!!! But, I think I'm noticing a pattern here which I "think" is a good thing. Most everything seems to be happening in "Bank 1" with the following codes. (now no LAUGHING pls)
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0307
P0341
P0353

Then, there are other sensors to report for which I can supply codes...

2 heated Oxygen Sensor Faults - B1 and B2.... P0057 AND P0037
1 (bank 1) Knock Sensor Fault... P0332

Then,,,, P0102 - P0066 - (P1000 which is a system reset code) and P0112...

Im wondering if and what is the relationship between the bank ignition codes and ALL of the air sensor codes. Should I approach curing the rough idle and sluggishness from the direction of air sensors & sensors,,, ignition system stuff OR is it the Cam Shaft Position Sensor code P0341? OR and interlocked chain reaction. OR, am I just nutts, lol?

I have been reading thru lots on this JagForum and am super grateful and impressed. I have learned lots just by reading. I am a newbee joining a league of true connoisseurs. I feel a little intimidated but I have no choice. I will take my time. It will take some time but, I will breath new life into this amazing machine with your all's help.

Thanks in advance. Any offering is appreciated - if you dare, lol..

ps.... Available to me is an XK8 engine with 37K. I would prefer to hold onto that knowing inevitably I'll need to turn to and swap it in. But that's down the line.

 

At last you made it to the right place. That's a lot of codes, so the first thing I would suggest is to take the battery out, charge it and have it load tested by one of your neighborhood auto supply stores.

A weak battery can cause a number of erroneous codes, so once that's taken care of get a inexpensive code reader, reset the codes and see if they come back.

If they do, we'll take it from there.

 

I agree with rj237. The first place to start is a known good battery. The problem is we don't know which codes are current and which codes are from old problems.
The elm 327 code reader is used by a lot of members. I use the OBDCOMII.
OBDCOM Diagnostic Systems for ALL vehicles only because i prefer a pc based reader. You need to clear all of the codes and start fresh.
Keep in mind when you change the battery the system has to relearn the driving characteristic and made idle crappy for a short time. Once you have everything on a clean slate we can start to help.
When you take the new fault code readings be sure to record the fuel trims at idle and at 2500 rpm and post those with the new codes.

 

Ok. I hear that. Will get new battery.

Does it matter that I performed the process of holding the positive and negative together for about a minute, then turned key to the "on" position for about 3 minutes and then restarted the car? I understood the P1000 code to indicate a fresh "reset"...

Also. So yes, a crap battery will produce all kinds of erroneous codes, anomalies - but will it also produce a rough running engine with little and burpy power? I always though (and I could be wrong as all get out) that the alternator took charge after start up...?

Guys - do you know what a blessing you all and this page are??? This JagForum is about the only thing that made me feel I could take on this responsibility with some certainty!

Good looking out - thanks for the fast turnaround!

 

A new battery or full charge will probably not cure the misfire. What we are trying to do is avoid confusion from a weak/uncharged battery.

A hard reset is performed by disconnecting the neg. cable from the batt. and touching it to the positive post. No need to disconnect both or turn the key on, but that won't hurt.

 

OK, got everything in the right forum now . . .

Welcome, by the way.

My comments still stand as posted on the other forum.

I think you are mixing information; zip ties and Allen bolts do NOT go together. There is no key. The sprocket to cam connection is infinitely variable. You use zip ties if you are removing the cam known to be in alignment and NOT disturbing the sprocket to cam Allen bolt connection. You use the Allen wrench if you have the cam flats locked down and are adjusting the cam sprocket timing to the pin in the crank flex plate.

If you see that the cam flats are not parallel you need to forget the zip ties as the timing is now out of alignment and do the complete alignment starting with the crank alignment pin through the sprocket realigned to the locked down cam flats.

RJ's comment about battery is very valid. These cars are real picky about voltage. The starter will spin the engine at a voltage lower than required for the Engine Control Module to operate. Get the cam timing resolved even before you invest in a new battery.

 

With a new battery, charge it for 8+ hours as they often come part charged.

Then start engine and let it idle 5-10mins. Idle should smooth out as PCM learns tiny variations in sensors etc.

I think the full drive cycle is in JTIS / codes PDF / this site (as for my car) if you want to speed up the relearn etc but usually just driving is enough - except for EVAP where fuel tank needs to be within limits (say 1/4 to 3/4 but do the reading) and a cold soak overnight is normally needed (it's to do with avoiding false decisions based on excess vapour / fuel slop).

 

Hello Good People.

Apologies. I wish this reply could have been sooner but I've been working a-lot and,,, working on the car,,, some. Still very grateful for your attention, this page and for you all offering your expertise... Please dont take time between posting as a sign of ingratitude or ungratefulness.

So - Since last corresponding I've gone ahead and purchased a new battery, purchased and OBDII reader and YOUR very straight forward suggestions, advice and starting points were spot on and paid off! I also purchased a solar powered trickle charger - the whole thing is making me happy.

After replacing the battery I've driven for a couple of hours (amazing machine even with the way things are) and let/left the car idling for quite some time while working on things. I've switched knock sensors and camshaft sensors from a xk8 with fewer miles (about 35k), taken off cam covers to check flats (which line up). At least upper tensioners have been replaced. I've adjusted the idle a little higher by turning the TPS counter clockwise a notch or two (steady 690 - 720 rpm according TORQUE Pro and the BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII) and then reset ECU again for all of that. The process of letting the car cool and resetting the ECM/PCM after every adjustment of the TPS stinks - but watching/listening the car re-learn is interesting.

Then there's more... Replaced upper control arm bushings and am waiting for a set of intake gaskets. All kinds of lights and minor electrical stuff. L & R F&Rear calipers and pads, resurfaced old rotors, ABS sensors (ABS light still on).

But - Still stuck. CEL is on and occasionally I get the full "Restricted Performance" flash while driving for a second or two. More, at start, I'll get the "Engine Fail Safe" message. The car is throwing codes as follows:

P1000 - Powertrain
P0303 - Powertrain - Misfire Cylinder 3
P0308 - Powertrain - Misfire Cylinder 8
P1313, 1314 - Powertrain - Misfire / Catalyst Damage
P1316 - Powertrain - Misfire

The car is drinking fuel. 6 -7 mpg with a very strong smell of fuel while idling and driving. My limited understanding of trims tells me that much 02 and unspent fuel is telling the 02 sensors and ECU to pour on the fuel. I am sure that beyond extra air as a result of misfire I have vacuum and air leaks.

Cylider 8 - has always mis/not fired. I take it out and it is pristeen, washed with gas I presume. Plug fires out of cylinder with coil, gas vapor blows out of cylinder hole without plug.

Cylinder 3 is the same BUT looks like its firing IN the cylinder and fires during test outside of cylinder.

WHAT to do about misfire? Have I damaged catalytic converters beyond repair?

ps... JagV8 - I have a question about the "cold soak". ie - "except for EVAP where fuel tank needs to be within limits (say 1/4 to 3/4 but do the reading) and a cold soak overnight is normally needed (it's to do with avoiding false decisions based on excess vapour / fuel slop)." if you dont mind, pls help me with what youre describing...?

pss... I will also have some ABS questions coming as well.

Thanks in advance...

Jay

 

For the missfires you will want to swap coils from those two positions to any other two positions and then see if the misfire moves with coils. Write them down before and after locations. Report back.

 

You need to fix the cause of the misfires and VERY SOON or you'll need new cat(s). Do not drive it except to check it's fixed. Cats are expensive.

 

Hi...

So appreciative to have experienced people to bounce this off of!

I am worried about wrecking the CAT and have been careful about driving the car. Thanks for the heads up.

Yesterday I think I solved the misfire on Cyl3 by replacing the coil from a second engine that I have. Power increased, responsiveness and engine sounds better. After getting ignition in C3, fault code stopped and CAT codes stopped on B1... Shweeew. Even got a "lean" code for a few cycles.

I am most confused and concerned with Cyl8. I bought a compression tester and got 0 (zero) psi as a result. As I described, I had been noticing the SPlug to be spotless clean (washed by fuel) and can see the top of piston which is bright silver. There is fuel, there is spark little or NO ignitions happening in 8.... Whats that about?

Today I will go home and run the compression test on all cylinders and am wondering what I will get...

Please advise. What does this sound like?

 

When you do the compression test, if 8 is still near 0, squirt some oil in there and get another reading. No one is going to be able to diagnose this without more information.

 

What information do you need? Perhaps I can supply it...

 

Beautifully clean spark plug and piston are signs of a head gasket leaking coolant into the cylinder and steam cleaning everything. See any white smoke out the tail pipe?

 

Yeah I thought about that as well. But no glycerin smell, no AFreeze lost and no smoke - white or other wise. I've also heard tell of gas and gas vapor - plus no combustion over time in a running engine - will produce a similar result. Is there any truth in that?

 

Please complete the compression test.

 

Ok.... So I checked the compression and in the 7 working cylinders nothing below 142 and nothing above 151psi. Looks good.

For cylinder 8. Aghrr... Zero and with 3 tablespoons of 5w oil ----- zero.

I have a second cylinder head with 36k miles OR I'm tempted to remove the head and replace the valves. I feel like I wanna save the low milage engine...

I don't exactly know how to do or replace a valve (I've never done it) but I'm industrus and fair confident in my abilities and basic understanding...

Is it possible for a valve to be hung up and removing the VCover, finding which one is out of spec with clearance and tapping it free? So or can a valve get "stuck"?



(above I meant e-glycol smell ever btw)

 

This could be a dropped valve seat due to overheating. But no matter what the cause, you will have to remove the head and inspect. A bent valve is unlikely if the flats on the camshaft are in alignment.

 

As far as I can tell, and I and a few other eyes have eyeballs it, the cams are lined up. I'm confident in that and the tensioners. Chains are tight and tensioners are of the metal body and orange guide.

If a bent valve is unlikely - what's likely? How difficult is getting to and replacing a dropped valve seat?

 

No experience with that. All 'too much gas' in my life produces black carbon.