The latch control valve is getting its command from the security control module I do not know for sure but I believe the valves are the same. If I were a guessing man I would be looking at replacing/rebuilding the latch ram. If it is worn it could jam or slow the operation of the latch giving the symptoms you are having.

 

+1 on that
The latch ram is double acting (pressure both sides of the piston) so if the piston seal was getting tired it would act as a bypass allowing whichever was the high pressure side to leak to the low pressure return.
Believe it or not this can happen in one direction only due to seal design.
My latch piston rod seal has begun to sweat slightly so I'll be doing a rebuild when I feel strong enough.

 

Thanks guys. I will try swapping the solenoids when I have a chance. I expect to be rather busy the next two weeks with a motorcycle trip coming up.
Gus, I noticed on your site ( JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource ) that the solenoid cans have a color coded sticker on top which is different between the two but I think that is just to avoid connecting the wrong plug.
The other thing I saw, was that there was plenty of room to slide the pump out from under the fender. I don’t know which car is in the picture but I can’t get mine out without pulling the disc changer mounting out first.
I’ll give the swap a try when I get the chance and will report back.

Thanks again, Gary

 

If it comes down to it, I can loan you my equipment to monitor the pressure from the test port throughout the cycle if you will cover the shipping cost. Basically it draws a pressure curve over the cycle on a PC with a USB interface.

That could help isolate the problem.

 

Do not try to swap the solenoids! One is for the latch and the other is for the rams and the connection internal to the pump is a microfine wire (small) and if you break it you will hate yourself. A new pump from Jaguar is around $7000.00 today. You mention the color code and that it so identify the control do not swap. Yes you can slide the pump out but do not crimp or pinch the hoses or tug on the leads going to the solenoids they do not take kindly to change or abuse. I think you need to stay focused on the latch for now. Send it to Top Hydraulics (on my page) and get it rebuilt for about $100.00

 

This morning morning the alarm went off on my convertible. After stopping it I then started the car and proceeded to raise the roof of the car.

The roof raised to a point just short of the raised hook (2cm) and then did not move further the hook dropped and nothing else happened. I pressed the button to raise and lower several imes but I seemed to get no electrical reaction. I will first check the fuses tonight in case it is just a blown fuse

I have read the information written on jagrepair.com and I wonder if this problem could be could this be related to the alarm going off and is there some sort of reset I can do to get the system back into sequence.

I checked with my local dealer and he says the oil may be old and could have blocked the pipes however I feel that as the roof has been working with no problem since I bought the car in July that it would seem a drastic measure to change the fluid

- any thoughts please

 

Check to make sure the petcock on the pump is fully closed (turned clockwise). The pump is located in the trunk on the passenger side above audio equipment.

 

First I would check the fluid in the reservoir at the same time see if it is brown or aqua green on color if it is brown it should be changed and you’re my car it is possible. The comment that the system may be clogged would pertain to the brown color fluid. The proper fluid would be Pentosin CHF 11s. I would then check the petcock to see if it is closed (clockwise direction). I had no reason to check but I would assume that if the alarm went off nothing would work and that would mean other functions of the car. You mentioned that you ran the top up and when it stalled you pressed the up and down button a few times, this can cause the computer to get confused and from this point nothing will work properly and will require a reset. That reset procedure is on my page Link: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource Look up “To open the roof manually” once that is done start your car and push and hold the closed button until it closes.

As for the cause it could be a number of things but from what you are saying and it is not the fluid or the petcock I would venture to say that one of the switches in the header is stuck and did not turn the operation over to the ram operation but that is my guess right now. See if this helps for now.

 

Hi Gus thanks for this, I closed the roof manually following your procedure and the left the car overnight. This morning I started the car and operated the hood and it opened and closed normally, maybe it just lost the closing sequence.

The car is booked for a service next week so I will ask the garage to check the fluid and replace with the one you recommend

I will keep you updated as to how I get on

Cheers Richard

 

No, he doesn't charge in that case. He leaves it up to you as to whether or not you are satisfied with the answer. Still, it is far better than the usual minimum $89.00 diagnostic question when you ask the dealer.

 

I may have answered this before, but he does not charge you in that case. He answers the question. It is up to you to determine if his answer is sufficient to pay him. If it is, you may pay iimmediately. If it is not, or you need to check, you may do so. He will follow up to ask if he is to be paid. They do not squack until someone stiffs them 2 times- then they may not answer. I got that from Richard verbally.

 

From Birmingham, Alabama

Pentosin CHF 11S was not available locally at any of my AutoZone or Advanced Auto stores

O'Reily's Auto Parts had one bottle in stock their PART# CHF11S $23.00 / liter - Otherwise online its available in 2 days from their warehouse

 

Consider yourself lucky Jaguar wants around 3 times that amount for the same stuff…

 

Hello all,

I needed to top up my convertible top hydraulic fluid in my 2002 XKR. I found a small 6 ounce pump oil (Pistol oiler with flex hose) can at O-Reilly's. It is able to snake around and enter the fill hole on the top of the hydraulic pump. 10 minute job start to finish. Of course, it will not work to evacuate the system.

All the best.

Lars

 

Nori- Sorry about the late reply. I had two hip replacement surgeries, and while the pain killers gave me an awesome high, I did not find them conducive to the type of lucidity I try to bring to a response. Also, since I am in the middle of the coldest winter in Wisconsin in 18 years (drat that global warming, eh? LOL) and it was 18 below zero F 2 days ago with mega snows, I have not been thinking JAG for a while since mine is up for the winter.


Answer: They ask you if the answer is adequate for your use. If you say no, they don't charge you. These men are independent contractors and need good reputations. However, if you take advantage of them and refuse to pay after 2 questions, they will block you.