To cut to the chase...on my afternoon return after a couple of hours out under overcast but dry and generally mildish for the season skies...


During a normal drive home from town, all main gauge lights and digital readouts shut down (heat/ac and stereo not affected). I could hear turn signal clicking, but no instrument indicators...I could hear high beam/low beam switching, but also no instrument panel indicators.


All gauges functioned properly, just unlit.


Clock stopped running (I have replaced my XKR nav system with the 3 gauge cluster).


It was getting on towards dusk, so I pulled over to see if headlights/tail lights were functioning. Put in park, engine running (closed convert top then "in case all hell was breaking loose") .


Headlights and all others were on per normal.

But when I tried to shift from park, the transmission interlock would not allow it. So I employed the manual interlock release successfully, and got home.

After some research, found the main instrument panel fuse (#18 on the driver's side panel, 5 amp) was blown.

Replaced it, and after a few jigs and jogs, the transmission interlock returned to proper function. With the engine on, all seems normal.

But still, with ignition off and key removed, all the "startup" instrument lights are on, and the error messages seem to be running through their full range, over and over.

So I pulled that 5 amp fuse from #18 slot in the driver's side cab panel to shut off that electric flash show...and came in to ask for y'alls help .

Soft reboot, hard reboot, or some other approach???

 

Sounds like it could be the instrument panel TSB: http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/...%20failure.pdf. Easy repair if that is it.

 

How does the # 18 fuse burn relate, if at all?

 

And as I read more closely, the issue described in this TSB almost first off says "No messages displayed on the message center "


Contrary to this, I have ALL messages .

 

I would start by pulling the cluster and ensuring the cable connections haven't come loose. If you installed the 3 gauge package you were in there, make sure the locks are set in the tabs.

 

Well, your car is a prime candidate to perform this TSB on, even if some of the symptoms do not precisely match, others do. It costs nothing except some time.

While you are checking the connections, I suggest doing it to rule this out one way or the other.

 

Sounds reasonable. It has been the better part of a year since I installed the three gauge cluster, with no issues until now, but as you say it's easy enough to check.


Any ideas at all as to why the main gauge cluster remains on and active even with the ignition off and the key removed?

 

OK, I've removed the instrument pack and checked the solder point as detailed in the 413-S484 TSB. The specified solder point was perfect, and the recommended continuity checks proved no shorts.


The two main harness plugs to the instrument pack seemed to be properly fitted before I removed them, and I was very careful to set them well on re-installation. I don't believe there is a problem there.


The car and gauges perform normally when the engine is on. Any other situation of the key and ignition position results in constant rotation of error messages on the message center display. Even with the key removed, the gauges stay lit, startup icons display, and the messages roll continuously.


Could the pack itself be at fault? Does this ever happen? Any other suggestions?


PS...thanks Steve, for your idea, it was worth a try.

 

For the first time ever, I am sadly disappointed in that it seems I've stumped the forum experts . Now what do I do??

 

ok a few other items, check your battery voltage, regardless (prob not but do it anyway).. Check the flap for the key slot on the column, ensure it's closing and perhaps lube it, since the key is removed something is making it think it's still in.

 

Clock stopped running (I have replaced my XKR nav system with the 3 gauge cluster).

???? Could this cause your problem?
Test it with disconnected 3-Gauge-Cluster,
maybe there is something shorted.

 

Did that right off with the key slot cover, lubed and fiddled...but since the return to high and in position for the steering wheel continued to function per normal on key removal, I was not thinking I'd find an issue there...but checked it out and no problem that I can see.


As to the battery voltage, I'll see to that tomorrow on your advice.

 

I believe the clock stopping is just a function of the blown fuse (#18 in the drivers side fascia fuse box). Once the fuse was replaced, the clock has run normally, except when I pull the fuse to keep the instrument pack and other gauge light from being powers after shutdown of the engine. I mentioned that in my original post just to paint as complete a picture as possible for my wise friends here to help with diagnosis.


I have never heard of any electrical issues subsequent to a properly installing Jagwrangler's kit (which I am quite confident of in this case), but it is an easy enough test to run, so will do so tomorrow as well.

 

Another question, on the heels of my inquiry re whether the main instrument pack ever fails such as to need replacement...


I know my XKR pack has a label in the tach gauge that indicates "supercharged". Does anyone know if the XKR and XK8 packs are interchangeable? I see several XK8 units on Ebay, and at reasonable prices. XKR packs are not so available, at this time anyway.

 

Take care there Burnham,
Yes, the IC module can fail - and produce some wierd results, often impacting on the security system also. If you do plan on swapping out the dash cluster be, oh so very careful . . . the risk of needing a dealership reflash is quoted as somewhere between "high" and "certain".

Also, the "mask" applied into the driver's cluster of tacho, speedo, and combination gauges vary enormously. The word "Supercharged" is only one of many variances that include (or block) a range of potential or fitted warning lights to suit the precise fitment on your car . . . as well as cater for the choice of MPH or Km/H according to market.

Finally, the advice to test and advise your battery voltage should be Step 1. Unless 12.6V or above after an all night rest following a full charge, you may have ample to crank and start engine . . . but not sufficient for fault free electronics.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Swapping IC may well put car into anti-theft and indeed require dealer tool to get it out so be cautious.

 

Thanks to you both.


I'll search the forum for battery test procedure...bound to be here somewhere. But if I don't find something like that, I'll come back for advice on that.

 

How old is the battery? What's the battery voltage first thing in the morning before starting the car? As stated, should be 12.6 V at a minimum.

 

Suggest these links drawn from the S-Type "HOW TO . . ." Sticky section, but equally applicable to similar era XK8/XKR and XJ6/XJ12/SOV etc vehicles . . .

Firstly, this link to (Battery 101) for a pdf download on all things re battery choice, CCA, voltage measurement, and maintenance;
Secondly, this link to (Quiescent Current Drain) to jump to thread for factory specs, sleep & TSBs, measurement & fault finding.

Many of us, including those advising you here, collaborated to set down boots-and-all approaches to measuring, diagnosing, then systematically fault finding each section of the car's electrics/electronics.

*MODS* . . . perhaps this should be Sticky'd to other relevant forum sections?

Cheers

Ken

 

Again, many thanks to all that have offered suggestions and sage advice.


Ok, to some of your questions...


The battery is about 24 months old, made by Bosch, and is to spec. I've had the car for 16 months or so.


I'll need to take the car out for a couple of hours run to make sure the charge is up to maximum, then test the next morning. But I'm not sure my 20 year old analog voltmeter/multitester is going to be accurate enough to be conclusive. I think I'll also run the car over to my very trusted regular indie mechanic of more than 20 years (though sadly not a Jag specialist, and he's told me not to expect him to try to work on mine...smart fellow that he is ) for a load test, after the weekend and subsequent big wind/rain storms forecast here in NW Oregon have passed by .


Frankly, I very much doubt the battery is at issue...after all, the initial problem was a blown fuse for the instrument pack. I rather doubt that would be caused by a weak battery that is only 2 years old. All other malfunctions followed that.


Although coincidences do happen, I think it's rather unlikely given the circumstances.


Sometimes in attempting to diagnose an automotive problem, we end up chasing possible phantoms, when the obvious problem sits right there in front of us. I've been down that path on many different rigs over many decades, as I'm sure all of you other wrench turners here have, too.


I think the most likely answer is a failure within the main instrument pack, causing a short, and ever after that pack has not functioned properly.


But I'm no expert, and am willing to be proven wrong, most adamantly. I don't want anyone to think I'm discounting the depth of experience and knowledge on hand here.


Ken, most especially I appreciate the links you've provided...they fill a gap in what I'd been able to find on the X100 forum.


I'll report back with results from proper battery testing in a few days. Thanks again for offering your help, all.