hey forum, can use some help........I have a " restricted performance" code on dash...... all started when I took the air mass off to trace a antifreeze drip to the fire wall... when I put everything back I started to get code p102...p106 and afew others that I didn't see listed in my book... anyway cleared codes for now along with the engine check light that also came on.... car also stalled on initial start up twice which never happened before.. any ideas...... maybe run the car for afew days to see if all resets itself ????? thanks tony.............. HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY TO ALL .......

 

Might have dripped onto the PCM?

If it's wet you have really big problems...

 

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everything was fine until I started to put my hand against the firewall and moving some of the harnesses around to get to the fire wall..... then all of a sudden codes started popping up....???? nothing was wet just a slight drip... just in case where is pcm ? guessing by the firewall ?

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while moving the harness around, did something become disconnected?

 

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not a thing ?? strange ??? everything was fine never even a code.... maybe I should try re seating some of the plugs ?? car just turned 84,000.....
think its ok to take the car on a say hour or two ride without having to worry about something happening ???

 

I would take a guess that there is an air leak in the intake past the air mass meter, introducing unexpected air volume into the system that has calibrated itself for the air it 'read' coming past the AMM; now all of a sudden there is a larger volume of air, that has not been accounted and calibrated for, entering the system.

 

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sounds good ??????????? any idea how to undo all this extra air to take care of problem.................. and re calibrate back to normal ..... ???? T.

 

The air mass meter, or air flow meter, or whatever derivative Jaguar uses for the sensor on the intake pipe that measures the volume of air entering the intake, and makes adjustment or 'calibrates' the amount of fuel flow etc., to provide to the engine depending on this initial air volume measurement. If air is then introduced anywhere past this sensor, the fuel ratios will be off from the initial measurement, and the car would respond by stalling out due to a lower fuel ratio compared to the unexpected increase in volume of air that is actually present in the intake. So, if you removed the intake pipe to ease access, any sensors or hoses removed, may not be fully seated back into the intake pipe, or the original o-ring used to seal the sections of the pipe that come apart may look fine, but has compressed and lost elasticity over time and heat exposure, and once removed will not seal properly anymore, allowing air in when it should be sealed, this would cause stalling and rough operation. First off I would make sure the intake is properly, and completely seated at all attachment points, and all hoses and sensors, are properly and tightly seated. Start it up, let it run, and grasp the hoses on the intake pipe and see if you can make the car run better or worse by moving them about, as they should be seated tightly, without 'play', if they are moving around or loose, replace the o-rings. Once you have found where the air leak is and fixed it, there is no need to "re calibrate back to normal", the car's air flow meter does that automatically, but cannot provide accurate data to the engine management system if air is 'leaking' into the sealed intake pipe skewing the data. There is also an 'accordion' section on the intake pipe that is highly susceptible to cracking as it ages, and it is very hard to find a leak in it, if you find a leak here, be sure to look at the bottom, it can be repaired with 'self bonding' non adhesive tape, the kind you pull tight, and it stretches and sticks to itself to fix that section, another member fixed his 'accordion' flex pipe with this method, use a search to find the post, it is hard to tell he added anything at all. This all has to do with whether or not you removed the plastic intake pipe, and unplugged hoses from the intake pipe like the full load breather hose, which has an o-ring to seal it. These o-rings can be replaced with the variety pack of vi-ton o-rings from the auto parts store, harbor freight, or Walmart plumbing section for less than 5 bucks, and though they make look no different in size from the original o-rings, you would be surprised the difference a few millimeters in the outer diameter can make in properly sealing a hose.

 

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sounds alot like what I did... I took the intake pipe off & I took that O-ring off and unplugged the hoses also from the intake pipe ... did not pull any sensors or plugs off anywhere else ( pushed them around a bit to see if secure ) maybe I screwed something up by doing so...
i'll check that accordion part of the intake pipe tomorrow and look into picking up a new rubber o-ring & will also check hose on the intake pipe...I took the rubber o-ring off because it was easier to put the intake pipe back on by putting it on the intake pipe first .. guess should have left well enough alone.... anyway thanks alot 03 XKR sounds like you saved me from alot of crap... just hope everything works out ok .................. tks again Tony... will let know outcome...........

 

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One more question, the rubber o-ring does it face down onto the metal pipe or up onto the intake pipe because it has a little lip on it and I think I might have flipped it over ?????? Tony B.

 

That certainly sounds like what is happening. Merely handling these plastic intakes at their age is enough to crack them. The o-ring giving resistance and therefore inserting it first may be your entire problem, you want that resistance for a tight fit, remove that hose and put the o-ring back on the way it was, it may have fallen or been pushed into the intake; hopefully not, if so retrieve it and reassemble and if you get that resistance, you are in good shape. Any hoses that were checked for tightness and felt like they kinda 'broke' away a bit is the feeling of a heat damaged o-ring that has conformed to it's surrounding, and could be a liability in the future. The Variety pack of o-rings has a chart on the lid, lay the old o-ring over the chart and select the corresponding one from the case, they come in a twenty pack or so, with several different inner and outer diameters. Just know that your original o-ring is going to have a slightly smaller outer diameter than the new one. Good luck and this should get you back on the road quick.

 

The deformation on the o-ring is due to it conforming to it's socket from heat exposure, or it originally got a bit caught when installed, then deformed; it might still work well. There is no up or down side, just put it back and snap it closed. It is worth it to try, for now then pick up the o-rings at your convenience.

 

will let know how goes.. need to find the o rings... guess will have to wait till after the holiday............