The detailer's choice is Stoner's 'Invisible Glass', but I'm not sure if it's strong enough to remove wax & tree sap.

The first time I used RaggTopp I thought I damaged the glass & finish from the overspray, even tho I did use a damp towel to wipe it off immediately. Turns out the next car washing removed it, using nothing special for cleaning. There is a youtube video someplace demonstrating that 303 is slightly superior to RaggTopp in terms of repelling water.

 

I used both Ragg Top & Sunbrella and both work just fine when using it in a controlled environment “no wind”. As for a cleaner you will find many on the market but from what I understand Sunbrella makes one. The choice is yours!

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Rubbing alcohol has additives that can leave residue; some of these are added to make the alcohol deleterious to consume (added at the behest of the liquor industry so as to protect their sales) Some rubbing alcohol even has skin softeners added.

Pure alcohol, which would not leave residue, is difficult to acquire and cannot be bought without special permits, AFAIK.

 

I buy mine at a marine supply store. I'm guessing Florida has a few of those around. Usually cheaper there than at the auto stores.

 

^^ Agreed. I always purchase my 303 at a local boating supply store. It's cheaper there, and they sell a 32-ounce bottle rather than the standard 16-ounce bottle. The 32-ounce bottle gives me two annual treatments....

 

Here is an update of several months later (sorry for the long delay)---

The second application of 303 protectant, mentioned in an older post, only lasted about a week-or-so before rain once again began soaking through the canvas outer top, and pooling in the area under the back seat; twice again now, back to square one! That's my second application (and second bottle) of 303, and yes, I used the 303 fabric cleaner before and followed all directions, and it didn't work. Twice. So I'm giving up on 303 and going to try Raggtop next.

(The rubber liner of the convertible top is intact, no water leaks into the passenger compartment, it seems to be getting past the seal for the rear window glass.)

Also, I want to mention information on the drain lines for the convertible top: there is a diagram that shows a drain line for the convertible (and indicates two are used per vehicle).

The diagram shows two different part numbers for the drain line, stating that the first one (p/n HJA-8129AB) is used "To (V) 002675" and that the second type of drain line (p/n HJA-8129AD) is used "From (V) 002676 to (V) 031302". And what is part #12 in the diagram? I don't know, there is no description given for it on that page, nor the next page!

So this indicates that drain lines were used on convertible top models for only certain XK8 vehicles, from (V) 002675 - 031302. I'm led to believe that outside of those numbers, drain lines were not used, as mentioned in another posting, that water just flows into the rear fender well and empties via a couple of holes at the bottom.

 

I would think you'd be able to get in the back seat and have someone outside systematically spray rear side windows, back window, etc. until you saw water ingress. And if you'd like to compare your rear window seal with mine feel free to stop by.

 

Unfortunately, the leak is hidden by the headliner; the rainwater isn't visible until it runs under the vertical metal support for the back seat, then runs down into the wells under the butt cushions. Where, exactly, the water courses between there and the rear glass seal is well hidden behind steel and fabric (not wanting to go to the hassle of removing the headliner...) Even if I did remove the headliner, it likely will only show me that the water seal around the back window is, indeed, leaking. I've been too slow to convince that that is where the water enters.

It seems that I have only two recourses: to waterproof the canvas top (I'll need divine intervention for that, apparently), and, replace the outer rubber grommet/seal of the back window. It seems that that can be replaced without removing the window itself from the top.

So now I'm shopping around for the rubber surround and I'll try RaggTopp to see if it will work where 303 failed so totally. Now I just need a stretch of some dry weather!

 

If the rear window seal is leaking, I don't think 303 or Ragg Topp will seal it. These products are meant to waterproof the fabric, not repair a leaking rubber seal.

 

^^ What he said. You're literally hosed until you replace that rubber seal....

 

I think his theory is that it's not water that 'rolls off a duck's back' (i.e. repellent canvas) that is getting in. It's the water that has seeped thru the canvas that is somehow challenging the rubber seal. In any event, I'd also just replace the seal, as RaggTopp is probably the less effective of the two products.

 

I also have found Renovo products to be first rate. I use the cleaner, colour restorer and the reproofer. I always use the reproofer twice a year, 2 applications each time and the colour restorer every other year. I have no choice but to leave the car outside under 2 sycamore trees all-year round and the above has kept the top looking great and totally waterproof.

I can also highly recommend the Cabrio Shield
Jaguar XK8/R 1996-2006 Cabrio Shield®

I use this every time the car is parked up at home and I take it with me in the boot if I am going to be away for a while such as airport car parks etc. A really good investment IMO.

Steve

 

I use the 303 and apply it twice a year. Once before summer and once just before winter. The top hardly ever gets wet unless I am washing it. I do like to see the top bead just like the car.

Glen Raven Mills makes the canvas most high quality tops are made from. They also make (Sunbrella) the high quality awning canvas. They are just around the corner from me. They developed 303 for the care of their canvas. As far as I am concerned 303 is the best.

 

So are you in the Burlington, NC area?

 

Yes, Burlington, NC. My brother-in-law actually owned a lawn service. We took care of a few of the Glen Raven Mill facilities. We finally worked out a deal with Glen Raven Mills where we swapped out some of the lawn care cost for rent on one of their buildings. We started an awning business called "Shady Deal Awnings". Its a part time job for me but we install / replace / clean and service awnings all over Chapel Hill, Greensboro, High Point & Burlington. We even have done a few shopping centers in Durham. I have not worked on any in the Raleigh area but we are only a few years old and growing fast, so, maybe out your way soon.

Glen Raven actually tested all their awning materials right on the side of the building we were in. It was a 50' X 100' maintenance shop with a loading dock and overhead cranes. It was perfect for us. They had maybe 25 awnings mounted on the sunny side of the building and had them all on timers and wind sensors. They would roll in and out all day long. lol Some of the Sunbrella material had been out there for years. They would go out and check them and see which materials were working best.

We have moved into our own facility since then.

 

Okay, so I applied 3 light coats of RaggTopp a couple of days ago (thanks MediaBobNY for the heads-up about The Driver's Seat in West Palm) and tonight we just had a brief, 15 minute downpour--so far, so good. Water didn't soak through that I could see (I went outside with my umbrella and a flashlight to find out!). Let's see if the RaggTopp holds up longer than the 303 did, which was two rain showers less than a week apart...

It is clear that I'll need to replace the rear window seal, of course, since that is where the rain is actually getting in, but what I'm trying to make known is that when the canvas top has been (very briefly) water repellant, only a very, very, small amount of water leaks in at the back window, I'd guess only 2-5% of the amount of water that gets inside when the canvas top soaks through. So both an intact rear window seal, and a repellant top, seem desirable; that is my goal.

That being said--has anyone replaced the rear window seal? If the gods are kind, the glass won't need to be removed from the top itself. I'd be interested in the experience of someone who has done it previously...

 

worrasf, the Cabrio Shield is a great idea; that is exactly the kind of thing I've been looking for and would love to get one, but the shipping alone (from England to the US) is something over $60 so I'd like to source that more locally.

The usefulness you describe is dead-on. If I can find a seller here in the US, there's no doubt it will be as useful as you describe. Thanks for that info.