Are you still having a problem with the roof?

 

I am. I just can't get the top down so I can access the switches in the latch area. I can't get enough leverage to push the ram/hinge down. I almost feels like the ram still has pressure on it. I know I could fix it if I could get it down.

I'm scheduled to take it to a mechanic named Greg at British Automotive Repair (britishautomotiverepair.com) in Scottsdale, AZ tomorrow.

 

You need to open the petcock at the pump. If you have done this then you need to apply pressure to the top of the rams. The objective is to release the locking mechanism that keeps the roof closed. The one thing you do not want to do is bend the mechanism. To prevent this from happening apply a downward force to the linkage at the top of the ram. I hope this helps!

 

I had Greg at British Automotive Repair look at it and he showed me how to push the ram down. he put one hand on top of the ram on the inside and the other hand on top of the first hand on the outside surface of the top and push down on the outer hand. That way he got downward pressure to move it. I did it myself using a folded rag on the inside and 2 hands on the outside with the weight of my upper body. This technique worked for me.

We diagnosed the problem as a bad microswitch in the passenger side top ram. I'll take it back to him to fix since half the interior has to be remove to get to it.

Bob

 

Hi Gus,

(literally) in the middle of swapping out for the new Colliflower hoses, just opened the box for the new hoses and have a question:

Apart from the hoses and the tape, I seem to have three bags of connectors.

I assume that:

4XHX7-S-0.015 (2 each) - are the orifices, which should both be mounted at the pump end.

4CTX-S (4 each) - are these the new right-angle connectors (to be screwed into the latch/pump?)

4-4CTX-S (4 each) what are these for? (they are right angle-connectors, but seem larger than those above)?

Thanks in advance. I'm assuming that the new hoses are NOT directional, so am going ahead putting them in....

-Steve

I've looked at your web site, and

 

Steve,
When installing the hoses you need to know that the hoses are directional and the proper way is the hose at the latch close to the plunger is to be installed on the lower position on the pump. As for the orifice install them at the pump.

 

Hi Gus,

Thanks for the fast response. I understand that it matters that the hose closest to the plunger (at the latch) is the one connected to the bottom connector on the pump. (this is also the hose that has failed in my case, and most other cases, looking at the online photos)

But does it matter which way round the hoses are (both ends of each hose look identical to me) - but I'm sure that, having put them in over the last half hour, if it does matter then I put them in wrong!

Also - why do I have eight right angle connectors (I would have expected 4, one for each hose end, to replace the originals), based on the photos at your web site.

Thanks again

Steve

 

Both hoses are the same and it does not matter what end is connected. As for the connectors it sounds like you hit the jackpot. Save the extras and give them to someone that could use them.

 

Unfortunately I don't think they'll be much use - the extras don't seem to fit.

My big concern was that somehow I was going to use the wrong ones and strip a thread on the pump and/or latch. However I've now got the pump end connected, and am taking a break for the night!

-Steve

 

I now have the dreaded green shower problem for the second time. I've had it repaired before at the dealership and believe they used the repair kit rather than having to entirely replace all the hydraulic lines. The first time the leak was due to chafing by one of the sharp edged crimped end fittings vibrating/rubbing on the other line causing a pin hole. The service tech wrapped tape around those new end fittings to prevent this from happening again. The first repair took about 4 hrs. due to all the interior trim disassembly required for access. As for the first time they're saying it's going to be about an 8 hr. job; I'll have to leave the car overnight and make a second out of town trip to pick it up. I'm not a happy camper not only due to the considerable expense of this repair but also to the fact that Jaguar apparently hasn't adequately address this long standing well known problem. Does anyone know if the problem has been corrected in recent model years or is this just something that Jaguar has chosen to not reengineer?

 

Jaguar quickly re engineered the inadequate hydraulic top system after only 10 years of production. The '07 MY came with a completely different system.

 

Your problem will continue until you reduce the pressure on the system from 1600psi to 1000psi and the pressure relief valve will do that. This is a link for it and a review I did on the hose.
Hyd Hose Evaluation
JAGUAR ROOF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
I hope this helps!

 

Gus is correct, if you do not address the root cause of the problem you will be back a third time. The alternative solution to the pressure regulation system is the voltage regulation method. Both work, the pressure regulation being more elegant, the voltage regulation a tenth the cost.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...raulics-42013/

 

The most up-to-date description of the voltage reduction system which Test_point mentioned can be found at ... www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm

 

has anyone had a hose break after doing the voltage reduction mod? I am still waiting on the resistor from China to do it.

 

I think it will take several years of convertible top use in order to determine the effectiveness of either the pressure reduction system or the voltage reduction system since even the stock system does not necessarily fail until it has been used for a significant length of time.


Doug

 

Although I don't know what the current source of the problem is (could be a latch ram seal?) the pressure relief valve would have made absolutely no difference even if it had been an original part. The hose was cut by the sharp edge of the adjacent hose swedge ferrel rubbing because there was no clearance between the two hoses. I don't think it's a particularly defective installation since it's a common problem, but sloppy design engineering on Jaguar's part, akin to a product defect, that they have been slow to address. At a minimum they should have quickly reduced the pressure to only what's actually necessary when hose failures became commonly apparent and not just an anomaly. It's cost plenty of owners considerable aggrivation, time and money unnecessarily. Although we love our XK8 (mostly because of the classic body styling) and the dealership is great, this is just one of the reasons I may not consider another Jag.

 

I am curretently trying to dismantle my XKR to install the suggested hose replacement and pressure release valve upgrade. The information above helped greatly with getting the roof down manually. I was extremelly nervous about bending the rams. So far things are moving slowly but at least they are moving. I certainly hope this will be the last time I have to deal with a roof issue.

 

Good to know that you are moving along with it. Keep us posted and ask any questions. The one most important thing is to not lose focus and take your time and do it right.

 

Well I have come to a stopping point. I can't seem to figure out how to get to the section of hyd hoses that run underneath the carpet on the driver's side. Does anyone know what the best way to remove the plastic panel to the left of the pedals? Or the chrome running board? I also have a foot rest to the on the left that protrudes out to block the removal of that panel. Not sure if that was an aftermarket item that someone had previously added but I can't get it off either. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!!