I've written in past posts about my valve seal problem and, heavier weight oil and Restore notwithstanding, the problem continues. When I purchased the car, the engine was pretty sludged up, and my mechanic had to flush it out several times using ??? kind of product to do so. I have a feeling that he might have used something pretty strong which damaged the valve seals.

Now the big question: has anyone attempted changing the valve seals themselves? I've changed valve seals in the past leaving the heads on by pressurizing the cylinders with compressed air and using a specialized tool to remove the keepers, retainers and valve springs, but don't feel like opening the proverbial can of worms with all of the broken coils and other plastic pieces likely to occur. That, and a real lack of spare time (and motivation). Has anyone had this work done by a non-dealer mechanic and give me an estimate of what this work might cost?

Thanks,

Max

 

Sorry Max. I have no clue about the seal replacement, but I do have a request:

If you do find the info, or if you have someone to do that job, I'm sure you're also going to want to have your valve clearances adjusted. Please let us know about the costs and problems you encounter with that as well. The adjustment should cost less than the seal replacement (labor), but then there's the cost of the new valve shims vs. seals. Doing both together would definitely enjoy some efficiency gains.

 

97 XK8, 4lt, original motor, suspect Nikasil bores, 1 cylinder showing huge amount of oil burning and clogging pipes, setting off all
fault codes Ford could think of. I am guessing as no one has posted in past 5 years, no easy fix for valve guide seals replacement.
Heads off, please speak up soon or.....you know how it goes, just have to rip into the job, Let me know guys

 

Gardcycl.......re you 97 ..how many miles and do you have piston slap...Mine has slap that comes and goes but no oil burning. any information useful.

PS lived in Noosa for 10 years with a KIA 4x4

 

Only 120k, ex malaysian sold vehicle, probably hrs of running in traffic at high temps.. Lotsa oil on # 1 only showing comps @ 130psi, lives on Bribie

 

If it's just one cylinder, you might consider the "rope trick". Pull all your spark plugs, then with the affected piston all the way down (beginning the compression stroke), feed some rope into the spark plug hole. Rotate the crank until the rope is pressed up into the valves. Somehow mark and move the camshaft out of the way (maybe this can be done with the drive chain still engaged - DO NOT LET IT SLIP). You can compress the affected valve spring, pop the retainers out, remove the springs and access the valve seals. Might as well replace all four, just to be sure. Re-install the spring, retainers and camshaft. Rotate the crankshaft backwards a bit to release pressure on the rope and extract it.

NOTE: I have used this trick on much more primitive engines, but never on the XK8/R. Not sure about clearing the camshaft(s). I'd try to see if anyone has actually used the technique on a Jag, and pick their brain for tips, tricks and traps.

Make sure to use a new gasket/seal set on the cam cover. Tighten it up according to Jag procedures, otherwise you might end up chasing oil leaks forever.