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the dread timing chain tensioners

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Old 12-05-2016, 04:40 PM
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Default the dread timing chain tensioners

OK...my 2000 XK8 convertible, built December 1999, 'apparently' has either gen 1 plastic tensioners or gen 2 hardened plastic tensioners. Have heard horror stories (akin to Hondas whose owners did not replace their timing chains, with destroyed engines resulting)...
Have heard the only fix is to replace all: timing chains, tensioners of metal, related bits and pieces.
Is this STILL the current state of advice for this 4.0 liter v-8 engine?...

Also, understand that it's recommended that this car, now 16 years old/ 77,000 miles, should have its 'presumed' plastic water pump replaced?...

ok...(marry in haste, repent at leisure)...have driven it for one full year, love this car... local jag mechanic says its good car (but "you should replace those timing gear tensioners and water pump... for $2500-3000 parts and labor (not a dealer shop).
1. are both these bits of advice still valid?? Purchased car from dealer, who tried to get paper from previous owner'spouse-- who said, 'threw it all away when getting 'girlfriend's stuff out of car...
Transmission was replaced one year ago... smooth and quiet.
Hoping to hear...HNB
 
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Old 12-05-2016, 06:49 PM
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If you don't have a record for the tensioners then the only way to tell what is needed is to pull the cam covers and visually verify type and conditions of tensioners and chains. Water pump isn't all that expensive but without service records there is no way to tell without looking at it. Has the plastic thermostat housing been replaced with an aluminum unit?
 
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Old 12-05-2016, 06:54 PM
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Numerous members will say you must replace the chains and tensioners. Others, myself included, have replaced only the secondary tensioners using the zip tye method. While doing that you can observe the condition of the followers down inside the front case, and if they are falling apart decide where to go next.

I think most would support the replacement of the water pump, crossover pipe, thermostat tower( with aluminum), thermostat, and radiator hoses.

It would also be wise to drain the transmission and replace the filter and main pressure valve. Then flush the cooling system and brake fluid and remove and replace the power steering fluid in the reservoir several times with a turkey baster.
Next the fuel filter, and lube the half shafts.
 
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Old 12-05-2016, 06:56 PM
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Default thats alot of cash

I did my secondary tensioners for about 80 bucks plus the cam cover gasket set for abot 50. Waterpump is about 50. All of these fixes are in the do it yourself range of doing things if you follow the guidence provided on this forum. I have noy done the primary tensioners. They are not engine killers.
Many mechanics are intimidated by jags and think a premium charge is in order. Part of thej oy of ownership is getting into it and learning to do whats needed yourself.
Be prepared with knowledge and a few tools and you will fid it rewarding.
Good luck
 
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Old 12-06-2016, 06:57 AM
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Secondary Tensioners, water pump, thermostat tower, valley hoses, I did them all myself the first year of ownership. About 10% of what you were quoted.

I'm not particularly mechanical either, I usually brake a digit or catch myself on fire once a year.
 
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:24 AM
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I think the price is too high. 2 years ago, I had all tensioners, timing chain changed for less than $2500.

john
 
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:55 AM
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Dont skimp on doing just the secondaries. I did the lot about 2 months ago, not easy, the crankshaft pulley is a pig, but after seeing the state of the primary guides, it was well worth it
 
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:32 AM
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I agree, definitely pull the cam covers and look at the secondary tensioners. It's a good time to change the cam cover gaskets, spark plug seals, and the little "grommets" around the cam cover bolts and the spark plugs. Check the archives for info on the secondary cam chain tensioners. I changed the ones on my 2001 XJ8 and used the zip-tie method. It's not bad if you take it step by step and be careful no parts of the old tensioners fall into the crankcase. You'll sleep better at night. Oh, and don't tighten the little 8mm bolts too tight or you'll crack the cam covers or the coil covers if they aren't already.
 
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Old 12-08-2016, 10:14 AM
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I will back up phanc on his suggestion to do both the primaries and secondaries. My 98 coupe with 78,000 miles still had the original setup. In addition to the worn and cracked secondary tensioners, both primary tensioners and all four primary chain guides were also cracked and failing.

If you decide to go that route, be aware that the chain tensioner kits sold through almost all the parts suppliers and/or ebay will supply the chain guides for post-2001 cars, and they do not fit correctly in the earlier cars. SNG Barratt will supply the correct shorter ones in their kit, but call them and make it explicit that those are the ones you need.

Andy
 
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:04 AM
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I purchased a 1998 Coupe in primo condition with only 39k miles. Like you, I researched via the forum for advice/ preventive actions.The majority of responses said to replace the tensioners, thermostat housing and water pump.
I decided to replace all the suggested parts...turns out my tensioner plastic bodies were in fact cracked and would most likely fail soon. It was expensive @$3000... but I have relative peace of mind ( for a Jaguar) about the engine reliability. Good luck.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 01:20 PM
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Default 2002 Jaguar Convertible

Looking to buy a 2002 Jaguar Convertible.
VIN - SAJDA42C12NA26632
Would you know if this motor would have the 3rd generation timing chain tensioner ? The car was sold 5/02/2002.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyjaguar
The car was sold 5/02/2002.
The build date is showing as 22.10.2001, which is close to the changeover date to 3rd gen (mid August 2001). So it's likely, but not definite that the car has 3rd gen.

The only sure-fire way to tell is to lift the cam cover and take a look, presumably not an option for you.

If you can get the engine number, (which is its build date & time) that would determine if it was assembled after the changeover date.

Failing that, given the closeness of the build & changeover dates, I would assume that its still on plastic tensioners unless there's documented service evidence to the contrary.

HTH,
Mike
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 06:16 PM
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Engines were often built months before installation, so I strongly agree with Mike.
 

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