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Engine starts but stops immediately after. RESOLVED

  #21  
Old 01-08-2017, 06:03 PM
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Ok - that's my next task for Saturday. I was retired for a few years but now I'm back managing a bank and I have a busy week coming up. Saturday I will pick back up where I left off today. I am so grateful for everyone here and the help you have all been. I'm sure it will get sorted out and my car will be back on the road but it will be running not on premium fuel but on the good comradeship of this forum and it's members.
 
  #22  
Old 01-09-2017, 01:45 PM
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Maybe unrelated to your problem, but I have a Chrysler that will behave that same way depending on which key I use. With one key it starts and then turns off after a few seconds. Swap the keys and it runs fine. I suspect it is the chip that is giving me issues.
 
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2017, 08:11 PM
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Any Progress?
 
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2017, 09:04 PM
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Gus, he is working out of town this week. I think he gets back Saturday. I sent him my spare TB if he needs to use it.
 
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2017, 07:57 AM
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I got in late last nice to an amazing surprise! A box (heavy) with BobRoys name on it!!! Wow - what a nice gesture !!!!

I have 3 days of sunny weather before the rain starts back up again. I hope to get the "donor" part installed then. I really hope this cures the problem. When I got home I tried the other key (just in case never overlook an easy fix) thanks to Member "mhminnich" and the car started right up and ran ok for about 3 minutes and then shut down.

The installation looks straightforward if I can get the electrical disconnected. I seem to think there might be two connections on the driver's side of the TB but I'll sort that out on Saturday.

I'm hoping this Throttle body does the job otherwise, I'm dreading a fuel pump fix.

Many many many many thanks to you BobRoy and Gus!!!

I will be in touch with you guys on Saturday.
 
  #26  
Old 01-14-2017, 06:40 PM
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UPDATE: I replaced the throttle body today with the donor from BOBROY. Fuel pressure a constant 40lbs. Replaced the throttle body relay in the engine mgt compartment. Same problem. Codes P1224 - P1240 P1241
 
  #27  
Old 01-14-2017, 07:46 PM
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My next step would be to check the grounds and the plugs at the plug tower behind the TB. If that does not fix the problem I would be looking at the ECM plug and the ECM
 
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  #28  
Old 01-14-2017, 09:16 PM
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Thanks, Gus! I will find the plug tower. Since I just had the TB off and back on . What does it look like? Can I get to it without removing the TB?
 
  #29  
Old 01-14-2017, 10:14 PM
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Look at your grounds and look the wiring as far as you can. The plug tower is directly behind the TB and is difficult to get to.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com
 
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  #30  
Old 01-14-2017, 10:31 PM
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Thank's Gus. You are right - there is not much room back there - My hands are all torn up from doing the TB alone. I've refreshed the ground in the truck. I will look in the engine bay tomorrow
 
  #31  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus
My next step would be to check the grounds and the plugs at the plug tower behind the TB. If that does not fix the problem I would be looking at the ECM plug and the ECM


Could be a leaking capacitor in the ECU
 
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  #32  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:14 AM
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Yes, the ECU may need repair, a common problem with the 97. If all else fails contact ASI, link below.

Automotive Scientific Inc. | Quality Rebuilt Automotive Electronics | Rogersville, TN
 
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  #33  
Old 01-15-2017, 01:14 PM
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This morning I decided to check the ECU for its basic condition. Removal was straightforward.


Front engine compartment. Rt side (passenger) Four screws are needed to be able to lift the ECU cover.



ECU Cover lifted exposing the connectors and unit. Unplug connectors and the ECU unit lifts up and forward to remove.



lifting the ECU out once the connectors are removed.



The unit was factory sealed and looked brand new. I was looking for leaky capacitors or burned traces but this 20 year old board looked cleaner than my PC at home.



The connector pins looked new.

That project is done and I have confidence that if I need to pull the ECU to send it in for repair/reprogramming I know its an easy chore.
 
  #34  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:06 PM
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I hope the battery was disconnected first.
 
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  #35  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:09 PM
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Absolutely Gus! Thanks. I started it again after and it ran a solid 3 minutes before grinding to a halt. rpms were not stable - they varied from 900 to 1800 during that time.
 
  #36  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:20 PM
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I tried to upload a video on the startup - no run condition but this forum doesn't like my video type
 
  #37  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:23 PM
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Yes my recent issue was related to the TB and the RPM's were wondering.
 
  #38  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:24 PM
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Take it to YouTube and put the link on the forum.

Originally Posted by bradstuff
I tried to upload a video on the startup - no run condition but this forum doesn't like my video type
 
  #39  
Old 01-15-2017, 03:02 PM
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here is a video of what it the engine sounds like. Note the fuel gauge in the background. It shows a constant 40psi.
 
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Old 01-15-2017, 04:22 PM
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Brad, does the fuel pressure move at all. I just tested mine to see how the pressure changes.
Key on before starting 40lbs
Starting car and running at idle 35lbs
Give it some throttle and it will jump to 40lbs
Turn off ignition stays at 40lbs.

Can you show video of the pressure gague only.
 
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