I get these codes when the engine warms up. When these codes pop up the engine starts running rough. By warm up, I'm talking about after 6-12 minutes. Could this be the engine going into closed loop mode? I always thought an engine normally went from open loop to closed loop in 20-120 second range. However, when the car is not warmed up it runs perfectly for that first 6-10 minutes.
This is the only problem I've experienced after installing new fuel injectors (which required removal of air intake, TB, TB elbow, supercharger, and both intercoolers - as I replaced all 8 fuel injectors even though only the #3 injector was bad). I have not started to search for a vacuum leak yet as I just assembled it together this weekend; but I find it odd that this condition does not exist until after the XKR is warmed up, and that it is for both banks. I haven't done a master reset yet either...would it be using historical injector data initially for fuel trims - if so, I'd expect it to be running rich initially due to newer and higher flowing injectors). Any thoughts?

 

Some warm up dependent possibilities might be

1) air leak. Least likely to be temp dependent, but could be if a rubber hose is cracked and leaks more when warm. Fuel trims at idle should be high if this were the case. At speed a small leak usually gets washed out since the engine is pulling much more air through the MAF than can com on through the leak, but it will shou up at idle when vacuum is high and air consumption is lowest.

2) canister purge. Although what you likely disconnected was between the valve and the intake so would leak all the time if the tube was cracked

3) EGR. This opens when the car warms up and also only when the car is moving. If you get a lean code while driving but at idle sitting still the fuel trims look sensible, then this might be it. To test this you could disconnect the EGR valve. You get a code for that, but will be able to isolate the problem that way.

You can always try the old MAF cleaner / starter fluid trick to find bad vacuum leaks. Will show up in the STFT pretty quickly when you hit the leaks spot.

 

CCFULTON - Thanks....that was the type of stuff I was looking for; unfortunately I don't believe in my case it is any of them.

I cleared the DTC's, did a master reset, and started the XKR up cold. It ran fine at first idling just parked. After about 5 minutes I revved the engine up and when it went back to idle it started running rough vibrating the whole care. Once it runs rough, it always continues to run rough whether at idle, hitting the gas, parked or moving. No CEL came on, but my generic scanner started reading P0300 and P1316 once the engine started running rough. This time it gave no CEL light at all....but I kept pulling those codes for about another 5-10 minutes after it started running rough. It never gave me any lean codes this time.

Why is my XKR running smooth at first and then rough when it warms up after this fuel injector change? I would like to note that I did correctly fill the supercharger coolant up correctly (open 21mm fill, run the intercooler pump, fill, and repeated), and the expansion tank is full (I check every time before running it) - so it appears that most / all air should be out of the cooling systems.

 

P1316 might suggest a coil or maybe the wiring to the coil causing a misfire.

A misfire will actually cause a lean code too, because not burning the fuel will leave a lot of unconsumed oxygen in the exhaust and the O2 sensor will register a lean condition.

 

A code won't usually flag and put MIL on until it happens twice in similar conditions on separate engine warm-up drives. OBD tool will see it as pending until then (unless it doesn't recur, in which case the PCM will delete the pending code).

 

I did pull some ignition coils to check if water got in them from disconnecting all the inter-cooler hoses and radiator hoses when changing the fuel injectors....but they were all dry, and the engine / injectors were designed to ensure water does not end up in there. They should be, as plenty of rain comes through the XKR hood vents whenever it rains hard.

I also believe the heater in my XKR doesn't blow hot air now. I automatically turn this on hot after changing the radiator fluid to help get air out of the system but there was no heat after 10 minutes...but the radiator hoses were plenty hot.

My current thought is maybe the coolant temperature sender unit is busted / broke. This could explain both rough running engine when warmed up (ECU doesn't know car is warm so it doesn't change ignition timing / advance) and the auto climate control heat not working (maybe heater valve won't open until ECU tells it that fluid is warm / hot). I will pull the resistance of this sensor when cold and warm tonight. This sensor is located in the metal thermostat housing. As a side note, when this thermostat housing was inside my house I accidentally kicked it while carrying a laundry basket...but it landed 2 feet away on carpet. I hope it is this simple. More to follow. Thanks for the ideas as I narrow away issues.

 

If it's not an air leak (the most likely), it may a problem with the injectors. Did you get them as OEM or aftermarket? If they are not the right type, when the engine reaches running temp, ECM calls for normal temp running and cuts back on the injector pulse width, the wrong injector could be too lean. This will be very hard to test but you may have to put the old injectors back and see what happens.

 

If your OBD tool has live data, check both banks run CL (closed loop) fairly soon after engine start. Then watch LTFT each bank at idle & about 2500rpm, parked. Once engine is warm all 4 should be close to zero. You can also check critical sensors like IAT & ECT. Post more if you need more help and if I go quiet PM me that you've posted as I don't visit this subforum much.

 

Coolant temperature sensor appears fine - I pulled resistance on it, while running it under hot water. While not knowing specs, it seemed to work / change quickly / based on temperature. Tomorrow I am off, and will pull the WDS from the basement and hook that up to the XKR whether permitting...hopefully that will give me some insight; as my small generic scanner doesn't read live data. I have not pulled any P0171 or P0174 (both banks lean) since the first start. All other starts run smooth as first (when cold), then rough (when warm)...and if I wait long enough I will then get the random misfire and eventually every cylinder misfiring.

oldmots:The injectors I bought off eBay, but are supposedly OEM. They look exactly the same, have the 12 holes, and I believe the same part number (I wouldn't have knowingly used otherwise) - I can double check when home as I have good pics. The old ones I still have (only 1 of 8 was bad); but of course putting those back in is the last resort. I could always buy one OEM and get the other 7 professionally cleaned as they have 125K on them.

WDS / Closed loop question: How do I know if the car is running closed loop (does it show no LTFT's when in closed loop)? Are there any other ways with or without scan tools to know for sure when the car is open loop vs closed loop? Thanks all as always.

 

If I recall, Autoenginuity can display an open or closed loop status indication so I assume WDS can.

 

Never had my hands on WDS but AE can do it so no doubt WDS can. You don't want to check LTFT unless running CL as in OL it'll run rich.

 

Let me say upfront that bank 1 and bank 2 LTFT's were always the same as each other, and bank 1 and bank 2 STFT's were always the same as each other. At no time was I sure when car was in open loop or closed loop.

When first starting car, both STFT's showed around the 25% mark; nothing for LTFT. With time LTFT's raised to 3.15% and STFT's showed 0 (around 5 minute mark). WDS then locked up twice and had to restart- long process.
At about the 25 minute mark at idle LTFT was as 19.7 and STFT at 0% (engine coolant temp at 97 Celsius and Intake Air Temp at 41 Celsius).

Does this tell me anything for sure? What else should I be reading? Thanks.

 

Do measurements at different speeds, , ie idle, 30 mph and 60 mph. Just make sure you drive on a flat road, put it on cruise, and wait until the ltft values have stabilized, then check the stft/ltft values.

If at these speeds it gets closer to 0%, you have most possibly obvious air leak after the TB.

 

Update: Spraying carb cleaner determined that the supercharger bypass valve actuator is bad. Of course I didn't determine this until after replacing the TB elbow gasket which is in the same spot. I unplugged the vacuum line going to the bypass valve actuator and plugged it - so this should mean the bypass valve is stuck closed. The jaguar now runs smooth cold and smooth while warm (from physically observing it). However it still throws all sort of codes and runs poorly if I drive it. This is definitely at least one source of an air leak. Would a stuck closed bypass valve make the car run poorly once put in drive?
Anyone know off hand where I can source the bypass valve actuator?
Can this be replaced without removing the TB elbow...I'm sure I can get the two screws off, but it looks like the whole bypass valve actuator needs to be rotated 180 degrees to get the bar / arm out of the receiver on the valve TB; plus not sure if it will fit maneuvering it out the rear? Thanks.