Hello All,

Please let me start this thread by thanking you all very much for all the help that you have provided over the years, I have never really got round to posting as I am not too good with computers, but I want to use this opener to start as I mean to go on and thank you all for your help.

So whats the issue?

I have a 2002 Jaguar XKR convertible and the hood is not functioning correctly at all.

I have done my best to read through all the previous threads and try to cure the issue myself, but am not getting anywhere.

The current state of play is as follows, the hood will intermittently retract but will never go up of its own accord.

I have noticed, the point at which it stops working is when there is a micro switch that clicks at the front of the car in the latch, if you push the button for the hood to come up, the pump starts and the latch starts to move, then it seems the latch closed switch going open circuit causes the SLCM to throw a wobbly and cuts all the power to the pumps and the solenoids. This seems to be the opposite of how it is supposed to act, as the jaguar bulletin states that the top latched microswitch going open circuit should cause it to start putting the hood up etc but it seems to be doing the opposite

What I have done so far:

I have checked all the 3 switches in the latch/catch and disconnected/sent power through them to check that they are earth returning correctly with a 12v test light, these all seem to work.

I have accessed the rear rams behind the seats and have tried to check those switches to no effect, I think they are pressure switches.

I have manually made the hood and latch operate using the wiring diagrams and various 12v feeds to make the solenoids/pump work, doing this I am able to get the hood to go up and down correctly, so I dont think it is a pump/solenoid issue.

I will note that once up and latched using the 12v feeds, if you then plug all the standard wiring back in for the pump and solenoids, you are able to hold the hood up button to make the rear quarter windows go up, so I would say that the top ram switch is working to allow the rear windows to come up.

Car has enough fluid and a strong new battery

I tried swapping the catch lines at the pump and that made no difference so I swapped them back.

I dont know whether the issue lays with the SLCM itself, but I cant seem to source one of them as a replacement, mine is a LJE2600BC

If anyone has any ideas on this I would absolutely love to hear it, thank you all in advance for your time and ideas, sorry it is such a big opener.

James

 

On the off chance it works, try a hard reset. Disconnect the battery leads and touch them together for about 30seconds then reconnect the battery. Reset the windows and radio code code if needed and then try the roof again.

 

Hi Jim,

Thank you very much for your reply.

I have tried doing that a couple of times, first I did it the way you suggested and it didnt effect it and then I left it with the battery disconnected overnight and tried again.

Unfortunately, neither of these made any difference

But again, thank you for taking the time to read and reply

 

Ok, if you can make it go up and down with your various feeds then one of those feeds is replacing a lost signal.

Set it up again so that it works and then one by one plug in the cars wiring until you find the one that makes it not work.

I suspect it will be one of the micro switches failing.

 

Have you tried swapping the relays around. There is a relay for top up/top down and window up/window down. If the relay is failing it might possibly be opening and cutting power. Especially since everything works as it should with outside power. The relays are all the same so I would swap the window up relay with the hood opening relay.
The relays are in the fuse box located in the boot.

 

Hi Jim,

The feeds themselves come from the SLCM module and it seems to cut power to the pump and the solenoids at the same time, as soon as the hood latched switch goes open circuit.

The issue with that is, according to the Jaguar bulletin, that is a key part of the sequence, it is supposed to go open circuit, so I dont know why the computer is not interpreting it correctly.

Also, it is my understanding that that microswitch feeds the hood not latched display on the dashboard, that all seems to work and it says hood not latched when it is its not latched etc.

 

Hello Vern,

I have swapped the hood up and down relays and that doesnt seem to have made any difference.

I cant swap the window relays with the hood up/down relays as they are different sized relays.

:/

Thank you for your suggestion though

 

Jim, you appear to be very good at troubleshooting, as you suspect the issue is with the latch micro switch signal try disconnecting the micro switch and run a pair of wires to the signal side of the wiring into the cab, then operate the simulated micro switch operation by hand with the pair of wires, see if you can document the problem that way.

 

Hi Jandreu,

I wanted to make sure I had covered most bases before wasting anyones time on here with something obvious, so this is what I have tried previously:

I have tried disconnecting and feeding the signal to the SLCM of the earth return as the microswitch would do and when it is earthing, as it would in the closed position, it will start to move and bring the latch up. As soon as you break the earth as if the latch has come open, the power is cut to the pump and solenoids and the hood stops raising.

So this to me would make me think that the switch itself is functioning. I am however unsure if it timed in anyway? Such as if the signal is half a second too late because the switch is sticking, is that what is causing the SLCM to behave incorrectly?

The switch itself does seem to move freely..

It is a very confusing issue

Thank you all for your suggestions

 

I am thinking you have a problem with one of the switches in the header. Open the roof electrically and make sure the quarter windows are down the roof is open and the latch is parked. Once that is done look at the latch location and you will see a switch that is aft of the latch. That switch is operated by a fulcrum and at times needs lubrication. Take WD40 spray a little and operate the fulcrum with a small tool several times then do a hard reset on the car then attempt to operate the roof electrically then let us know if it works. If it works then spray with silicone spray..

 

Hi Gus,

Thank you for replying, I was reading your tips from the other posts and I came to that conclusion also. As a result this morning I did exactly what you have said minus the hard reset.

I am obviously more than happy to try that, please can you confirm the procedure so we are both reading from the same hymn sheet as such

I will say what I did this morning in case I have missed anything.

I got into the car, started it up, pushed the down button on the hood once it started to unlatch, then clicked and cut all power, I immediately released my finger from the button and depressed the down button again and it picked up from where it left off and fully retracted itself, dropping the rear quarter windows and parking the latch and finally moving the front windows back to their fully up position.

After that I got some penetrating oil and sprayed it around the catch area and used a pencil to move the microswitch with the fulcrum multiple times to make sure it was operating freely .. I also made sure the locking pins at both ends were lubricated in case they were sticking..I then tried to put it up again and no change ..

I will say though, I did notice that it I pressed the up button on the switch then waited for the bings to say the hood is coming up, if I then depressed the microswitch on the fulcrum at that moment the catch itself would come fully up but the hood still wouldn't move and the pump would just run until it timed out.

Hope I am making sense

Thanks again
James

 

Check your PM!

 

Hello Everyone,

So after a lovely chat with Gus on the phone yesterday, I have now tried the following this morning, I have fully lubricated the rear rams on both sides with the petcock open, so the roof can be easily pulled up and down by hand now.

I have performed a hard reset on the car using the procedure on Gus's website and following that reset all windows on the car with the top down.

Unfortunately, once again when trying to put the top up, the car behaves exactly the same way, it trys to move initially, something clicks and cuts all the power to the solenoids and pump.

This brings me back to thinking there is something wrong with the SLCM, maybe it is getting confused and not giving off the right signals? Is there anyway to test it? Does anyone have one available secondhand? Part number is LJE2600BC

Thanks all

 

It maybe the module but can you narrow down the click to a particular component. Unless it's the relay clicking off, in which case the module is giving the signal too early, but why.

How long has this been going on and was anything done to the car prior to the first incident.

 

Hi Jim,

The clicking is from the latch area, it seems that the module is operating in the reverse of the way it it supposed to.

According to Jaguar, "When convertible top latch closed switch goes open circuit the SLCM switches on solenoid main control valve; the convertible top will start to raise"

However, it seems with mine, at the point that switch is going open circuit, the SLCM is cutting all the power to the pump and the solenoids. I have tested the actual latch closed switch using a test light and it is earth returning correctly.

 

It sounds like it is timing out so I would like for you to swap out the top up and top down relays and see if you see a change in the operation. If the status does not change then when the roof latch opens assist it with your allien wrench to a fully open position and see what takes place.

 

Hi Gus,

I have tried swapping the relays you mentioned, no effect unfortunately.

In reference to assisting with the allen key, I am unable to do that as when it clicks out, it becomes to hard to push the catch any further, almost as if the hydraulics are trying to make it pull the latch back down.

 

Are you sure the hoses are not reversed? The only time the latch should have close pressure is when it is ready to latch and that will only take place when the ram switch is satisfied. It is entirely possible that one of the switches are and functioning properly.

See if this helps. Start on page 6

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/501-11am.pdf

 

Hi Gus, I have tried switching the latch hoses, but it doesnt seem to make any difference to the way it operates.

I would say it is step 4/5 of the closing sequence, that is where it fails and the power is cut to the pumps/solenoids

 

At the moment I am thinking that the pump is laboring and would like to see if you can test it. You press the close button and assist the roof to the close position.

Question; do you know if the latch grabs the roof and closes when the roof is at the header?