Power Seat Stopped Working!!!
#1
Power Seat Stopped Working!!!
I have a '98 XK8 and when I went to adjust my seat I heard a click but the seat did not move at all...none of the controls on the side of the seat do anything. This does not seam like an issue with the motors...could it just be a bad fuse? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Fuses first, #1 and #8 on the driver's fascia fuse panel.
The cars have a history of rubbing through the wiring insulation under the seat.
If fuses are good might try swapping the seat control module with the passenger side. Two small bolts each and the connectors make this a easy job. The modules have a history of breaking a circuit board conductor along the edge. Several members have repaired with a small piece of wire and solder.
The cars have a history of rubbing through the wiring insulation under the seat.
If fuses are good might try swapping the seat control module with the passenger side. Two small bolts each and the connectors make this a easy job. The modules have a history of breaking a circuit board conductor along the edge. Several members have repaired with a small piece of wire and solder.
The following 2 users liked this post by test point:
aardvark64 (04-29-2013),
Dallas XK8 (09-03-2015)
#4
I would imagine the repair is what I would call obvious. If the board is broken then the circuit is broken. If you look at the board closely you should be able to see where the connection should be made. Like connecting a jumper wire to bridge the circuit where it is interupted between the circuit soldier points.
Use a gauge wire that is the same as what goes to the board. Other wise the jumper, if a lighter gauge, will burn thru instead of the fuse.
Did that make sense.
In either event you will need a pencil tip soldiering pen instead of a gun. The tips of the gun are usually to big for circuit board repairs.
Radio Shack under $20.00
Flux, flux, flux!
Use a gauge wire that is the same as what goes to the board. Other wise the jumper, if a lighter gauge, will burn thru instead of the fuse.
Did that make sense.
In either event you will need a pencil tip soldiering pen instead of a gun. The tips of the gun are usually to big for circuit board repairs.
Radio Shack under $20.00
Flux, flux, flux!
#5
#6
I think this is what you are looking for. You may need to sign in to see it.
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jag...9317317-1.html
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jag...9317317-1.html
#7
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#8
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I think this is what you are looking for. You may need to sign in to see it.
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jag...9317317-1.html
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jag...9317317-1.html
I am in So Cal so if I am unsuccessful I will send you a message
#11
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#17
It's the potentiometer that tracks the position of the column to advise the BPM. Common issue to get a dead spot that produces symptoms as you describe.
A fix, of sorts, is to use the memory buttons to locate the tilt positions just on each side of the hang up spot, with all other seat and wheel memory positions the same. Then you can use the 1,2 buttons to wipe the bad spot a couple dozen times. Works for a while.
A more correct solution is to use an electrical contact spray to clean the potentiometer but that involves removing the motor unit. Fortunately, the tilt motor is a lot easier to get to than the reach one.
A fix, of sorts, is to use the memory buttons to locate the tilt positions just on each side of the hang up spot, with all other seat and wheel memory positions the same. Then you can use the 1,2 buttons to wipe the bad spot a couple dozen times. Works for a while.
A more correct solution is to use an electrical contact spray to clean the potentiometer but that involves removing the motor unit. Fortunately, the tilt motor is a lot easier to get to than the reach one.
The following users liked this post:
Fla Steve (12-14-2010)
#18
I've got a dead passenger seat module also. The closest I can find on ebay is off by a digit in the part number and is close to $300.
I took mine apart and the PCB was all corroded as described, I also had the bonus of some sticky brown goo, like dried coca cola or something.
I use a bit of water and a toothbrush to clean everything up, and saw one obvious broke trace, so I fixed that, but no dice.
This morning I got out the multimeter and found a few more traces that look OK, but are not conducting.
I'll try again to get them fixed and post the results.
I took mine apart and the PCB was all corroded as described, I also had the bonus of some sticky brown goo, like dried coca cola or something.
I use a bit of water and a toothbrush to clean everything up, and saw one obvious broke trace, so I fixed that, but no dice.
This morning I got out the multimeter and found a few more traces that look OK, but are not conducting.
I'll try again to get them fixed and post the results.
#19
Well, 8 jumper wires later and it seems to be working. It isn't pretty but it'll be under the seat anyway.
The only other thing I need to do is try to glue the case back together. Someone ripped it off the seat rather than removing the bolts holding it on before I got the car.
UNless someone else has a bad module with a decent case to donate to the cause?
The only other thing I need to do is try to glue the case back together. Someone ripped it off the seat rather than removing the bolts holding it on before I got the car.
UNless someone else has a bad module with a decent case to donate to the cause?
#20