QUICK question about spring and shocks
#1
07-18-2016, 11:21 AM
QUICK question about spring and shocks
I just ordered new Bilstein shocks all around, and mounts, etc....
From what I recall, the spring comes off with the front shock. Because of this, I also ordered new front springs. (the car is 18 years old, and I guess it wouldn't hurt.
*I measured the rear wheel front center hub straight up to beginning of the fender.
My REAR measurement was 15.75 inches.
I also measured FRONT from center hub straight up to fender, and that was only 14.50 inches.
Did I do right by replacing front springs since they're coming off when shock comes off?
From what I recall, the spring comes off with the front shock. Because of this, I also ordered new front springs. (the car is 18 years old, and I guess it wouldn't hurt.
*I measured the rear wheel front center hub straight up to beginning of the fender.
My REAR measurement was 15.75 inches.
I also measured FRONT from center hub straight up to fender, and that was only 14.50 inches.
Did I do right by replacing front springs since they're coming off when shock comes off?
#2
07-18-2016, 11:40 AM
Senior Member
#3
07-18-2016, 11:42 AM
Veteran Member
#4
07-18-2016, 11:49 AM
Veteran Member
Anthony, I don't know if this is your 1st or 1,000th time to do this. In case it is closer to the 1st, this may help. I posted it after I did mine:
Friends,
I just finished replacing the upper shock mounts and the front shocks on my 1998 xk8. I spent a few days learning about the type of spring compressor that Autozone loans out. Since this is the spring compressor at Pep Boys, and for sale on several websites the odds are many of us will run into it someday. Let me help you save hours of effort when you go to use one and boil down my learning from the last 2 days:
1) You will need 2 of these spring compressor kits (you'll see why in a second)
2) The compressors (2 rods per kit) are a threaded rod and two attachments
that go into the spring coils. We will call them attachments.
3) One of the attachments is threaded (bottom one) one is not(Top).
4) They both have silver saftey pegs that can be removed. I removed mine, saved a lot of time and headaches. You decide on your own.
5) You need to un-thread and remove both the attachments from each threaded rod in one kit.
6) You will need to insert both bottom (threaded) attachments about 1/2 way down the spring coil, then slide them lower, all the way to 1 or 1 1/2 coils above the bottom. You will need a hefty hammer to help the last 2 or so turns. Watch the rubber boot underneath, it can get caught so push it out of the way.
7)) Position these at opposite sides of the coil.
8) Now look at the 2 you just positioned. They are cocked inward from the pressure of the spring. You will never get the threaded rod into them from the top - thats' where the extra set comes in handy. (see #11)
9) Put the two top attachement's into the coil, slide them up until they are 1 1/2 or 2 coils below the top. Move each until they are right above the corresponding bottom one.
10) Unthread one of the extra set's attachements. Use this threaded rod to lever the attachment positioned on the bottom of the spring into position to receive it's threaded rod.
11) Insert the extra threaded rod into the bottom of the cockeyed attachment. Turn it 1 or 2 threads in to get a good grip, now press down on the end of that threaded rod to move the it into position to accept it's threaded rod from above.
12) Insert the threaded rod #1 through the unthreaded top attachement and slide it down to the bottom one. Adjust the angle with the rod sticking out of it's bottom and get the upper threaded rod seated with a turn or two.
13) unthread the bottom rod (lever) and repeat for #2.
You will need an impact wrench to do this job. My 24 gallon compressor died and I had to rent a compressor with 2 gallon capacity. The rental would turn the bolt head 4 to 6 times and have to stop to recharge.
Do about 3 or 4 turns per side to keep it even.
14) Once you get the compression to the point that the top of the spring starts to seperate from the upper shock mount you can take it off. Technically you can remove it just a little before that - I check by slowly unbolting the center bolt on the top of the shock. You will see the difference between an loaded and unloaded connection up there.
15) You will have to release the spring to remove the shock, just leave the attachements in place to compress it after you are done.
16) if replacing shocks - Unthread the spring from the mount on the shock, don't just pull up/down. there are plastic holders that can break.
17) You can tap the lower spring mounting plate off the old shock with a hammer, it's not too hard. Mine looked like it was corroded on and a new one was days away - getting and reusing the old one off worked fine with a hammer.
DON'T Forget to position the upper shock mount relative to the lower shock bolt. While you will have a small amount of free play - you can not reposition that upper shock mount once you release the spring pressure. It must be in position relative to the holes in the car and the bolt position in the suspension. I was able to eyeball it, just don't loose sight of it.
18) Once you put new shock in, recompress the spring and attach the bolt to the upper shock mount. I said upper attachement 1 1/2 or 2 turns down from top for this reason. If you placed it higher on the coil it will interfere with the upper shock mount.
19) Upper shock mount attachment: You will just need to get the bolt started on the shock absorber. Yes you can probably compress the top of the spring 1/8 of an inch or so with hand pressure at this point. If you leave this bolt too loose you will hear a clunk as you drive.
This will save you hours of battling with these compressors.
John
__________________
Friends,
I just finished replacing the upper shock mounts and the front shocks on my 1998 xk8. I spent a few days learning about the type of spring compressor that Autozone loans out. Since this is the spring compressor at Pep Boys, and for sale on several websites the odds are many of us will run into it someday. Let me help you save hours of effort when you go to use one and boil down my learning from the last 2 days:
1) You will need 2 of these spring compressor kits (you'll see why in a second)
2) The compressors (2 rods per kit) are a threaded rod and two attachments
that go into the spring coils. We will call them attachments.
3) One of the attachments is threaded (bottom one) one is not(Top).
4) They both have silver saftey pegs that can be removed. I removed mine, saved a lot of time and headaches. You decide on your own.
5) You need to un-thread and remove both the attachments from each threaded rod in one kit.
6) You will need to insert both bottom (threaded) attachments about 1/2 way down the spring coil, then slide them lower, all the way to 1 or 1 1/2 coils above the bottom. You will need a hefty hammer to help the last 2 or so turns. Watch the rubber boot underneath, it can get caught so push it out of the way.
7)) Position these at opposite sides of the coil.
8) Now look at the 2 you just positioned. They are cocked inward from the pressure of the spring. You will never get the threaded rod into them from the top - thats' where the extra set comes in handy. (see #11)
9) Put the two top attachement's into the coil, slide them up until they are 1 1/2 or 2 coils below the top. Move each until they are right above the corresponding bottom one.
10) Unthread one of the extra set's attachements. Use this threaded rod to lever the attachment positioned on the bottom of the spring into position to receive it's threaded rod.
11) Insert the extra threaded rod into the bottom of the cockeyed attachment. Turn it 1 or 2 threads in to get a good grip, now press down on the end of that threaded rod to move the it into position to accept it's threaded rod from above.
12) Insert the threaded rod #1 through the unthreaded top attachement and slide it down to the bottom one. Adjust the angle with the rod sticking out of it's bottom and get the upper threaded rod seated with a turn or two.
13) unthread the bottom rod (lever) and repeat for #2.
You will need an impact wrench to do this job. My 24 gallon compressor died and I had to rent a compressor with 2 gallon capacity. The rental would turn the bolt head 4 to 6 times and have to stop to recharge.
Do about 3 or 4 turns per side to keep it even.
14) Once you get the compression to the point that the top of the spring starts to seperate from the upper shock mount you can take it off. Technically you can remove it just a little before that - I check by slowly unbolting the center bolt on the top of the shock. You will see the difference between an loaded and unloaded connection up there.
15) You will have to release the spring to remove the shock, just leave the attachements in place to compress it after you are done.
16) if replacing shocks - Unthread the spring from the mount on the shock, don't just pull up/down. there are plastic holders that can break.
17) You can tap the lower spring mounting plate off the old shock with a hammer, it's not too hard. Mine looked like it was corroded on and a new one was days away - getting and reusing the old one off worked fine with a hammer.
DON'T Forget to position the upper shock mount relative to the lower shock bolt. While you will have a small amount of free play - you can not reposition that upper shock mount once you release the spring pressure. It must be in position relative to the holes in the car and the bolt position in the suspension. I was able to eyeball it, just don't loose sight of it.
18) Once you put new shock in, recompress the spring and attach the bolt to the upper shock mount. I said upper attachement 1 1/2 or 2 turns down from top for this reason. If you placed it higher on the coil it will interfere with the upper shock mount.
19) Upper shock mount attachment: You will just need to get the bolt started on the shock absorber. Yes you can probably compress the top of the spring 1/8 of an inch or so with hand pressure at this point. If you leave this bolt too loose you will hear a clunk as you drive.
This will save you hours of battling with these compressors.
John
__________________
#5
07-18-2016, 12:51 PM
John,
Thank you for taking the time to do this ^^^^
However, my mechanic offered to do the job for 100 USD per wheel.
4 shocks, front mounts and springs.
Any bushings needed along the way will be replaced at cost of parts.
Just i case, I've printed out your detailed work description and will give it to him.
Hopefully he won't need it.
I'd rather keep my hands clean and not deal with the aggravation..if any.
Thank you for taking the time to do this ^^^^
However, my mechanic offered to do the job for 100 USD per wheel.
4 shocks, front mounts and springs.
Any bushings needed along the way will be replaced at cost of parts.
Just i case, I've printed out your detailed work description and will give it to him.
Hopefully he won't need it.
I'd rather keep my hands clean and not deal with the aggravation..if any.
Last edited by Anthony8858; 07-18-2016 at 02:45 PM.
#7
07-18-2016, 11:35 PM
Veteran Member
Most of the sag in the front is from the compressed shock mounts.
The original springs would likely be close to stock height with just the addition of new shocks and new mounts.
Jonken is right that in front the Spring compressor gets blocked as you compress the spring and its tricky to get the compressors right. Once I got it in the spring, I just put a socket and extension on each compressor to keep the bolt end of the compressor from getting covered by spring coil or the top mount. I think I may have put the compressor on upside down, too, to remove the original spring.
The original springs would likely be close to stock height with just the addition of new shocks and new mounts.
Jonken is right that in front the Spring compressor gets blocked as you compress the spring and its tricky to get the compressors right. Once I got it in the spring, I just put a socket and extension on each compressor to keep the bolt end of the compressor from getting covered by spring coil or the top mount. I think I may have put the compressor on upside down, too, to remove the original spring.
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