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Stick up an down steering column fix...FAQ

  #21  
Old 05-05-2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo68
Added to my "to do's" ! Thanks for the post Mish! As you worked on this was there any place to "grease" the joints?? Mine started to make noise when it was going down and now sometimes it will make a grinding noise when going up. It is not all the time but it is temperature sensitive when it does it. Cooler temps are more likely to make the noise. I guess it could be just the motor doing it too but then it would do it more often and up, down , in or out i would think. Anyone else have a groan when the steering sets itself???
There is always something to grease, except for the gear box on the motor itself, it is sealed.
 
  #22  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:43 AM
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Excellent field reporting Mr. Mish-Mish
Thanks kindly
 
  #23  
Old 06-08-2011, 10:35 AM
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Apologies for bumping a relatively old thread, but I have just repaired my sticking column using MishMish's how-to and it works a treat. It took me an hour, mainly because it's a pretty tight squeeze under the steering column, but other than that it worked fantastically.

Thank you so much, MishMash I have just one question: how on Earth do you guys find these solutions? Even if I had known which parts to dismantle, I would never have guessed in a million years that the problem could be solved by simply flattening the tiny washer inside. How did you figure that one out??!!

Anyway, however you did it, you saved me $$$ on a main dealer fix, particularly as Jaguar dealers in France are few and far between.

Merci beaucoup
 

Last edited by Frog; 06-09-2011 at 01:24 AM.
  #24  
Old 06-08-2011, 01:56 PM
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Mish Mish I fixed my tilt wheel a month or so ago. Followed your directions except for the washer. Tried to flatten but did do such a good job. Worked fine for about a week then the same Gremlins came back. Last week I took the motor out again. This time I left the washer out and sprayed contact cleaner inside the poteniomitor. Now it works better then ever. Thanks again!!! Jack
 
  #25  
Old 06-09-2011, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pophen
Mish Mish I fixed my tilt wheel a month or so ago. Followed your directions except for the washer. Tried to flatten but did do such a good job. Worked fine for about a week then the same Gremlins came back. Last week I took the motor out again. This time I left the washer out and sprayed contact cleaner inside the poteniomitor. Now it works better then ever. Thanks again!!! Jack
I will try your fix, if my Gremlins reappear. Can you be a bit more specific about what you did and where exactly you sprayed the cleaner?
 
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  #26  
Old 06-09-2011, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Frog
Apologies for bumping a relatively old thread, but I have just repaired my sticking column using MishMish's how-to and it works a treat. It took me an hour, mainly because it's a pretty tight squeeze under the steering column, but other than that it worked fantastically.

Thank you so much, MishMash I have just one question: how on Earth do you guys find these solutions? Even if I had known which parts to dismantle, I would never have guessed in a million years that the problem could be solved by simply flattening the tiny washer inside. How did you figure that one out??!!

Anyway, however you did it, you saved me $$$ on a main dealer fix, particularly as Jaguar dealers in France are few and far between.

Merci beaucoup
You are very welcome.
When I opened my electric gear box assembly, I noticed that this round spring makes worm gear spin very tightly, so naturally I made it flatter, so it spins easy, like it would seem to be normal. In my case it fixed the circuit overload issue and made my steering adjuster work. However, few times out of probably 50, that I used it since then, I did have an occasional sticking, which went away immediately on second attempt. So my fix is only ~98% reliable, kind of like NASA.

P.S. It's MishMish - peach in Hebrew (apparently)
 
  #27  
Old 06-09-2011, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mish_Mish
P.S. It's MishMish - peach in Hebrew (apparently)
Sorry and thanks again for the fix
 
  #28  
Old 06-09-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Frog
I will try your fix, if my Gremlins reappear. Can you be a bit more specific about what you did and where exactly you sprayed the cleaner?
You can spray it inside the round potentiometer, you see three wires coming off the board, right next to it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...x-p1030916-jpg
 
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  #29  
Old 06-12-2011, 08:53 AM
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Total Noob here (four week old owner), just beginning to work through the issues with my '97, and this is on the list. With mine, there is no telescoping movement at all, though the tilt function works. Is there anything else I should check before trying this fix, given that mine is not working at all vs. sticking? I also do not have the owner's manual, how does the memory function er.. function?
Many thanks!
 
  #30  
Old 06-12-2011, 10:58 AM
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Theweeb, that's called the Reach motor. Search the forum on that, there are several fixes that can be attempted.
 
  #31  
Old 07-06-2011, 05:15 PM
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Mish_Mish Is your tilt wheel still working correctly. I fixed according to your directions and everything worked perfect for a couple of months. The other morning I put the key in wheel came out and dropped a tiny bit then stopped. Had to use multiple clicks on the manual switch to get it to the correct position. This is what was happening before the fix. Tried reprograming. It took a couple of tries then it started working like it should. Them it stopped working again. The next time I tried it all was normal. The only thing different on the day it stopped working was a. The car was not used for 2 days (this is a daily driver) and b. the morning temps. were the coolest they've been since the repair. Have you got any ideas on what's happening? Jack
 
  #32  
Old 09-07-2011, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mish_Mish
Ok, here it comes!

What causes this issue is Bosch part, believe it or not.
Motor that controls the up and down is mounted right under the steering column (see picture), on one end it has little drive shaft, on the other it has potentiometer assembly. This assembly is very hard to spin and this is due to one very agressive spring washer. What happens is, when you try to adjust the column, motor jerks for a split second and then, due to excessive load, relay powers it down. Helping steering wheel up, or down does not help either, because it is driven through a worm gear... anyways, long story short:
1. Take off kick panel above the pedals, it is 2 8mm bolts, maybe 10 mm.
2. Take off motor-reducer aseembly, below the steering wheel. It is bolted on two allen style bolts, I think they are 5mm.
Please note that there is a shim, under motor assembly, for what reason I do not know, I did not re-install mine, because bolts are rather short, so I decided to give them couple more threads deep.
3. Unplug electric connector, it come out easy.
4. Slide off an open potentiometer assembly hosing, it has one screw and 2 little tabs to pull. It is Bosch made, so plastic is very strong, nothing breaks.
5. flatten the darn spring washer, or remove it of you like, I flattened mine with my fingers. You will see how much easier it will spin, after you put it together. Do not forget to add more lubrication, if you must.
6. Re-assemble motor assembly.
7. Bring the steering column up, or down manually, by spinning little drive shaft by hand. Now, connect electric cable to motor assembly, check if it works and then run it up, or down (with column adjustment knob), depending which way you moved the column earlier.
8. Slide motor end of the drive shaft into the column end.
9. Reinstall motor back in place, with, or without shim.

The end!
Hello MishMish. I am about to replace the tilt motor on my 97 X300 and find your post on the subject extremely useful. It seems a relatively straight-forward job but I have one question.

It would seem that you left the column end of the drive-shaft in place (no reason to remove it I suppose) but as I will be replacing the entire unit can you advise if I will be adding greatly to the complexity of the job by disconnecting and replacing this part? Do you have a procedure?

The reason I am replacing the motor is simple - it is dead! If removal of the column end of the drive shaft would add substantial complexity to what seems to be otherwise a straight-forward job, I might be tempted to leave the part in place, blending old with new. What would be your counsel in these circumstances?

Other information I have read about this job suggests great complexity, steering wheel removal, airbag module removal, the use of special tools etc etc. By comparison your post is a breath of fresh air, for which many thanks.
 
  #33  
Old 09-07-2011, 09:14 PM
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Can a mod add this to the FAQ thread please?
 
  #34  
Old 09-07-2011, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by xenophobe
Can a mod add this to the FAQ thread please?
Your wish is granted <cue the music that accompanies a magic wand being waved over your computer screen>
 
  #35  
Old 09-09-2011, 10:58 AM
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cleaning the potentiometer is a must as this is what I have found to be the culprit everytime.
 
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  #36  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by XKR Brian
cleaning the potentiometer is a must as this is what I have found to be the culprit everytime.
Job done! New motor installed.

In my case the problem with the old motor would appear to be within the motor irself. To begin with I couldn't budge the drive shaft, this after removing the inners of the potentiometer, but in due course it started to loosen, in a very lumpy way and occasionally freezing totally. Makes me think that there is a problem with a gear wheel or even a bearing in the motor housing. In due course I will attempt to dismantle to see if I can make a spare.

Many thanks to Mish_Mish again and also to Pophen; I agree totally with the suggestion about removing the seat. Made my life so much easier.
 
  #37  
Old 09-11-2011, 05:52 PM
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[quote=Mish_Mish;342851]

I thank you!!! What an excellent fix! It took me 30 mins start to finish. I removed that little washer/spring rather than trying to flatten, and all worked perfectly! I actually thought that the "stepping" was intentional (and annoying). Also, I too did not reinstall that spacer when remounting the assy. Oh, and when I removed the assy, there was a zip tie "holding the black plastic gearbox" part to the motor assy. I presume this is because the gearbox piece is just clipped on with a couple of plastic tabs. I didn't re-zip tie mine. I hope that doesn't bite me later, but it is an easy disassembly to do if needed. Thank you again for this great post!
 
  #38  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:21 PM
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This post is fantastic, I just wish I found it a month ago before I had a problem & it took me 2 used motors to fix it. I saved the old motors & will take one apart tomorrow. Thank you for a great post.
 
  #39  
Old 10-04-2011, 11:28 PM
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Doing mine tonight!! Wish me luck
 
  #40  
Old 10-05-2011, 02:07 AM
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Well, an hour or so later, and its done. It only took me that long because I had to fix where a previous fiddler (most likely my audio installer) broke the lower tabs for the wood veneer around the gauges. Great instructions BTW, my thanks added to your post Mish x2. I almost lost my little plate that went between the mount and the car, I didn't even see it come off the part when I pulled it, but it landed in the footwell, so easy to spot.

I just yanked the bent-up washer, it was pretty messed up.
 

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