Forging "new ground" in that I'm picking a choosing my own parts from what I feel may be the best offering (Value for $$ spent) from some of the popular injection manufacturers.

I'm buying NEW parts from "TUNERS" that are abandoning injection projects -finding them on Ebay and Craigslist for pennies on the dollar. I have time to wait for the right parts to come up for sale - because its winter in Kansas City and the Jag's in the garage much of the time anyhow. So far I have obtained all the main parts for a very sophisticated system for less than $350. I suspect I'll have about $500 invested by the time its fully operational.

I will document this endeavor with as many pics as I can remember to shoot while I'm working on things.

Vehicle: 2003 Jaguar XKR, 4.2L

PROBLEM: The small "Powerhouse" supercharger pulley I installed on the OEM Eaton M112 induces too much heat into the charge air when it's boosting at outdoor ambient temps of 70 degrees F or above. When the outdoor temp is fairly warm - after the first time "hoofing" the throttle, if I hammer it again I can hear the beginning of spark knock and then feel the 'puter pull the timing back. I don't like that one bit. So I'm fighting back, one small step at a time - as I can afford to do so.

Attempted Solution: Water injection. My first step was to install the best high tech spray nozzles I could find. I like the spray jets made by Howerton Engineering (aquamist.) I did the drilling, tapping and refinishing of the Throttle Body intake manifold and a salvaged S/C "tophat" for the require injector "bungs" while I had the engine apart for the my last fuel leak/pressure damper fiasco. The aquamist jet sets also included a nice set of O-ring sealed blanking plugs to close off the bungs if, in the future, I choose not to use a jet in a specific location- and also so I can still drive the car (sans massive vacuum leaks) while I'm piecing the system together.

Note:I used a salvaged supercharger "tophat" or output manifold because that was the one thing that will be quite visibly modified, and if I want to sell the car someday, a potential buyer might be freaked out that that a old gearhead dared modify such "a mysterious, wild and wonderful car." Because of that potential, I wanted a way that I could put it all back nice and OEM looking. Obviously, I'm not to concerned about winning any concours car show events with this car!

My plans are to inject 50/50 water/methanol mix before AND after the supercharger. That is, before the S/C but AFTER the throttle body - spraying directly into the mouth of the S/C. Doing this, not only avoids spraying a potentially corrosive mixture through the throttle body but mostly takes advantage of water's slight sealing effect on the vanes of the roots blower - thus increasing it's efficiency a little bit. AND secondly, spraying additional water at the output of the S/C to cool the mixture going into the charge air coolers just a bit more. I don't know if this will work any better than the guys that are simply placing a single nozzle on top of the air duct, spraying directly into the throttle body - but hey! The set-up with it's water manifold and neatly placed lines to four injectors will look pretty cool huh?

You may notice that I drilled and tapped two extra holes a the front of the "tophat" to facilitate jet positioning changes or in the event that I want to add two more jets in the future. I plugged those holes with standard brass plug available at the hardware store - if I don't end up using them, I'll just tell the tuners that point and ask questions, that they are for future hydrazine or nitromethane injection !

My second step (done yesterday) was to mount and wire the Coolingmist brand CMGS progressive controller & boost gauge that is housed in a standard 2" gauge package. It's a pretty neat and compact device. It controls the water injection by any one of three input signals - boost, vacuum or MAF output. It also allows the installation of a flow-meter to better control the fuel to water mixture. I have purchased a flow-meter and will be installing that option as well.

I fabricated from scratch a polished aluminum gauge panel and mounted it on the underside of the dash, up against the center console in a position that is fairly out of the way, but still perfectly readable through the steering wheel and easily adjustable from my driving position. It's just above my right knee.

I hid the on/off switch for the system under the pullout sunglasses drawer handle. You cant see it at all, yet its easily reachable. That switch operates a relay that conducts the 15 amps needed by the pump and controller through a fuse to the big positive terminal atop the driver's side fuse box.

The hardest part was finding a route into the engine bay for the boost line from the gauge to the supercharger. I finally found my access by drilling a hole in the heavy plastic brake booster mount. The hole is down low and looks quite factory with a grommet sealing tight the black hose coming out of it.

That's all I've done so far. I still have the pump and water reservoir to mount. I haven't decided where yet. In fact, I haven't even purchased the reservoir yet. I don't know it if want to use the windscreen washer tank or a stand alone tank in the trunk. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Interesting and ambitious project, good luck.

Will you start a new thread on 'total rebuild of a blown ZF 6HP box using parts from a Qualcast Lawnmower' ?

ps Next time I'm in the States I'll sneak in and WELD your bonnet shut !!

 

I had water meth in my car for a few years, wish I knew you wanted a system as you could have had my Snow Perormance setup for cheap money. You can mount the pump just in front of the washer resevoir if you make a bracket. This also lets your washer resevoir fluid level sensor let you know when you are low. Be careful not to inject to much.

 

Why did you take it off?

 

Neat project. It is always fun to watch a gearhead play "find the next weakest link".

 

Charlie -I think he should be injecting straight nitromethane - don't you?

 

And a dash of hydrazine to give it a little kick.

 

Have you checked the operation of the intercooler pump?
Failure of this has been the cause of several peoples 'knock' problems, including mine.
Getting quite common with the 4.2 XKR. Bad batch of pumps!?

 

Thanks JagXkr for your idea - I think I have read a write-up you did about that front mounted pump using the window washer bottle as a reservoir. I'm currently having fun reading through your posts attempting to find said info. I'm aware about the perils of too much water and plan on consulting Howerton on new very small jet sizes. The jets I have were obtained from a guy that was planning on a direct-port water injection on a 28psi boosted Nissan 350Z. Probably a LOT more water needed for that monster setup than will be used on my lowly Jag! Right now, I'm most interested in getting the boost gauge part of the system set up - so that I may get an idea of what boost my engine is actually seeing. That way, I may calculate the approx jet sizes that will be needed. Also, like Steve, I'm very curious why you decided to take off that Snow performance set up? Did you decide to go with a "Killer Chiller?"

Stumpy Yes, the IC pump is working fine, however, I'm considering replacing it with the higher flow pump that I've heard talk about on these here forums.


As for YOU two guys: Steve and Charlie!?!

What am I going to do with you??
I'm NOT draggin this car! I'm not into breaking parts. I enjoy an afternoon hoon on the glorious and curvy Missouri two lane blacktops that start about a mile from my home. I just like getting from one curve to the next as quick as possible I also enjoy using the highway entrance ramps as aircraft carrier catapults!

Steve, YOU stay away from my bonnet with your welder - unless of course, you have a plasma cutter so that we may cut a few strategic holes in the hood for checking the oil and topping up all the fluids!

And one more thing... If I blow up that frustrating, crappy, no first gear holdin' 6HP26 in my "transmission" tunnel - I'll just put one of THESE in my car!

Turbonique

And finally, BTW you two jokers, I'll have you know, I'm mixing up a couple of gallons of N-Propyl Nitrate down in my lab right now - I found Grandpa Munster's recipe last week! HooHaaa Haa Haaa Haaa (echo echo echo)

 

When you get done with your mods be sure to post a butt dyno plot!
KaleCo Auto

 

Man! Thanks, I've been looking for one of those! I need to justify the chrome muffler bearings I installed last year.

Ewe Rawk!

 

Personally I wouldn't spray before the SC, mainly based on the negative advice from KenneBell, not from own experience. Best to check if the special coating on the Gen V superchargers (as you have it), is able to take the mix.

 

That's HILARIOUS. Love it.



.

 

FWIW Isopropyl Nitrate, like nitromethane, are beloved of those who wish to study detonation physics in homogeneous liquid explosives.
Both are powerful high explosives and neither should be available to the general public.
Hopefully both will be soon banned from sale.
Be very careful with that nitration process - last time you only nearly lost your fingers !!
Charlie, very thoughtful idea.
Doesn't he need
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=21
from the same folk?

 

I'm wondering if you would not get a better more consistent result with nitrous. There is plenty of local lore and technology available respecting nitrous. Water injection seems out of favor these days.

My reference source, which I highly recommend, is anything written by A. Graham Bell, and in particular "Forced Induction Performance Tuning".

Also, suggest any tech article by Kenne Bell.

New on the scene are the "Super Chillers", which use the cars AC to drive down intercooler temp. See the March issue of GM High Tech, page 70.

 

Or maybe:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=38

Though by the sound of it he may have those already!

 

Yes, he already has those.
You must read his earlier problems with the fuel rail dampers.
Sadly he's lost his marbles afterwards but we do need to support members with gofaster troubles.
Barry,

This (of course) is entirely Charlie's problem so - shall I delete this thread and then you can wait a bit and spring it on us or do we continue to behave in a totally improper manner ?

 

love the idea - pre/post charge cooling will definitely benefit. I like the small nozzles idea, have you done the maths on what flow rate you'll need with them?

Have you got a dealer type scanner, could you monitor the temp off the intercooler sensor?

I saw a video of the difference in pumps, cheap ones pulse, which isn't good, but a quality one just mists, probably the aquamist stuff your picking up.

Like the electrical install, and what colour are the S/C bits, is it body colour. Looks like a dark bronze on my phone.

Not to disagree with Andre' - but I wouldn't be too concerned with the powercoated rotors in the supercharger. It's a sealing paint that wears off over time. I've stripped them before now with no effect on boost. Only confirmed this by talking to a knowledgeable guy about the importance of it, some re-apply it some don't. (refurbs)

 

From what I've read it isn't that KB is concerned about the coating so much as the the water/alcohol mix causing corrosion of the aluminum and potentially seeping into the sealed bearings at the rear and decreasing life.

I have to admit, I'm a little skeptical on both of those items unless you really are putting a fire hose to it and flowing way more water than you should be. Rule of thumb is that not more than about 20% of the liquid volume in the cylinder charge should be the water/methanol.

My guess is that the ones that have trouble are the always on types rather than the progressive controllers that only spray at higher engine loads, like MadMax has installed.

 

The abrasive paint on the 4.2 sc's is there to increase its efficiency, that's why I mentioned to checkit 1st. So if that dissolves away you could counteract the benefits ofspraying before (besides the risks of longer term bearing wear), but I guessboth have only a marginal effect.

Also try to avoid to spray anything whilst still under closed loop.

@Sean,
The iat#2 is only shown as a weird voltage, so you would have to make a translation table (on the 4.0 cars its also of a slow type temp sensor, the 4.2 is quicker). Another way to check the heat effect is to monitor the ignition advance, that will retard the hotter the temps. You can make a base line with an external temp sensor connected to fool the ECU its cold.