An update: First a sincere thank you to Sam and many others who contributed, including DaveinFrance who provided a key piece of information a couple of years back. There are two switches on the PS door lock mechanism of my 05. I had ordered only one type, and they appear different. They have different wires and different actuation. Both are Burgess. One is operated by the action of either inside or outside door opening lever. It is this one that tells the window to drop a little. This switch is operated by being 'run over' by a slide actuator linked to the door opening handles, and has no lever. Fortunately for me, I had the correct replacement switch: The problem most of us seem to have is with the switch that tells the infamous 'brain' that the door is open or closed (and hence causes the refusal to stay in glass-dropped mode when the door handle is released when the signal is not there). If you have a failed switch in this case, and no one tells you otherwise, or you don't have the electrical schematic, you will be buying a replacement (say, Omron) that has three leads, and so can be wired either normally open or normally closed. With a failed 'open' two wire switch, you will have no way of knowing whether you need NO or NC, other than to take the other door apart and determine the correct 'form' with an ohmmeter. Hence additional thanks, miles down into the post, to Dave in France, who went the extra mile - er klick - and confirmed the contact form needed is NO, how to orient the lever in case you failed to record it properly (!), and how to adjust (bend) the actuator so that the switch does what it is supposed to do, when it is supposed to do it. Benefiting from Sam's issue with the lever rod and rod-end, I took the door handle out and removed the rod from that end. There was no copper / gold barrier present. Thanks again to everyone!