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LOL, this forum is excellent. I just put a new battery in my XK8 and the windows did the same thing. I ranted and raved ,ran the windows up and down,closed the door,opened the door,until I finally gave in and checked this forum. After a short read,the Windows work perfectly again. Thanks for helping keep my blood pressure at the proper working settings.
I doubt about battery, because the window does it even when engine is running and the alternator supplies 14.5V, Is it very difficult to replace the switch or switches?
Thanks
I doubt about battery, because the window does it even when engine is running and the alternator supplies 14.5V, Is it very difficult to replace the switch or switches?
Thanks
The issue is how low the battery voltage goes when the car starter is engaged....this is what wipes out the memory. Have the battery load tested.
So Thats the problem!! Thanks for the posting. I thought i was going crazy with the windows. Yes BATTERY was low as car sat for a while. Did the reset and all is well again.
My car sat for a while and after charging the battery and starting it up, i had the same problem with the windows. The reset instructions solved it! What a great resource this forum is!
I'm just reading along and learning all sortsa' good stuff.
I had a similar problem with the passenger side window not returning when you open and close the door. And all of the reprograming and resetting in the world wouldn't fix it. T'was the micro-switch inside of the door. Sounds like a common occurrence.
2002 XKR-100, I had a similar problem, open the passenger door, window drops as it should then immediately goes up hitting the frame when the door is closed, I tried the window reset procedure, but then found the it was the microswitch in the door latch. It has been written here and in other venues that the latch would have to be replaced, in fact Jaguar now offer the microswitch for about $30.00, the part number is C2N1908. I watched a youtube video on how to remove the latch, easily replaced the "door ajar" microswitch and now all is well. An easy way to see if it is your switch, open the problem door, you should see a red warning light in the dash and a message "door ajar" no light, no message, then it's most likely your microswitch.
I'm just reading along and learning all sortsa' good stuff.
I had a similar problem with the passenger side window not returning when you open and close the door. And all of the reprograming and resetting in the world wouldn't fix it. T'was the micro-switch inside of the door. Sounds like a common occurrence.
M, it's part of the door latch mechanism, some might call it a door lock. I'm speaking of the female side that closes on the post to secure the door. This switch monitors the position of this latch to determine door status open/closed/fully latched?
It's a PITA job, complex but not complicated. Are you sure you have a faulty switch? I cant count how many of us solved the problem by resetting the window travel, restoring full battery voltage, or doing s hard reset.
Perhaps you were simply looking for what you asked for, its position. Come back under a new thread if you want help proving it to the switch. Be sure to include year - the scope of this switch's control changed over the years.
M, it's part of the door latch mechanism, some might call it a door lock. I'm speaking of the female side that closes on the post to secure the door. This switch monitors the position of this latch to determine door status open/closed/fully latched?
It's a PITA job, complex but not complicated. Are you sure you have a faulty switch? I cant count how many of us solved the problem by resetting the window travel, restoring full battery voltage, or doing s hard reset.
Perhaps you were simply looking for what you asked for, its position. Come back under a new thread if you want help proving it to the switch. Be sure to include year - the scope of this switch's control changed over the years.
John
Hi John
thanks for your reply.
re: door locking/not locking/ window dancing: No - I’m not sure it is this switch. I am confident it’s not the door module or the battery as I have renewed both. I have just read the hard reset procedure and will try this next; but the intermittent nature of the fault suggests a dodgy switch or connections to me.
On a previous posting to which you replied last September: Cassette/radio/CD, I recently replaced my head unit as it packed up completely. When studying the connector wiring diagram I found the head unit has an “AVC” wire - this causes the volume of the sound system to increase and decrease with the speed of the vehicle. So it was not my imagination or ghostly fingers on the volume control!
Very interesting about the AVC wire. I remember that one can adjust AVC Level by holding volume control down (pressed in). Ttytt I can not really tell the difference.
Hey if you recall, can you tell us some more about that wire? Was it connected to anything? Where was it? Gosh anything you can recall will be interesting.
Hi John,
The automatic volume control wire is blue with white tracer and is shown in circuit diagram going to major instrument pack. This is shown in figure 16.3 of the wiring diagrams section of the WSM CD,
My car is a 1996 model therefore very early (vehicle I D number 002956) and is fitted with the optional Harman Hardon premium sound system.And it’s Marqy with a queue, Head unit and multi pole connector
not Margy with a gee!
Originally Posted by Johnken
Very interesting about the AVC wire. I remember that one can adjust AVC Level by holdinvolume control down (pressed in). Ttytt I can not really tell the difference.
Hey if you recall, can you tell us some more about that wire? Was it connected to anything? Where was it? Gosh anything you can recall will be interesting.
Intermittent power problems maybe battery cable problems too
Our cars are old so checking intermittent electrical problems at start up should start with the battery and their cables.
Ground negative cable is easy to access and clean. The positive cable connects to the HPP fuse box at the back wall of trunk. This connection sometimes works loose and/or corrodes. Pict below
Take the cables off, sand connections clean and shiney bright, removing any trace of yellow, spray with contact cleaner (not WD40) and re-attach firmly.
Note 12V isn’t a lot so any drop in Voltage across any connections is going to affect this car as it’s really sensitive to low voltage.
The reason I asked about the year is that early cars like ours, mine is 1998 have many things controlled br that door switch. It gives us a clear path for diagnosis.
From what I've seen these switches either fail in the "door is open" or "door is closed" position. Yes, kind of obvious- just thinking out loud:-).
When door is open: (and therefore when a broken switch tells car that door is open)
Display says Driver's/Passenger door open on the dash.
Puddle light in lower rear inside corner will be on.
As I recall you cannot lock door when it is open. (Maybe this is why they cycle)
Interior lights are on until battery saver code kicks in and they time out (I forget how long that takes, but its more than a couple of minutes)
You cannot close window all the way. (Don't forget it is dropped to clear the roof rubber seal until it is closed)
When door is closed or switch thinks it is:
Window drops each time you use door handle.
Door open message goes away.
Door open chime doesn't work.
Interior lights off.
Gosh I can't think of anything else that is switched or controlled by door closed status. I just wanted to list a few things that can maybe help you target or eliminate a faulty switch.
If it is a bad switch, more than one of us had the trouble clear itself while working on it. Others have had success squirting WD40 on the mechanism and cycling it a few times (latched, unlatched repeat).
The reason I asked about the year is that early cars like ours, mine is 1998 have many things controlled br that door switch. It gives us a clear path for diagnosis.
From what I've seen these switches either fail in the "door is open" or "door is closed" position. Yes, kind of obvious- just thinking out loud:-).
When door is open: (and therefore when a broken switch tells car that door is open)
Display says Driver's/Passenger door open on the dash.
Puddle light in lower rear inside corner will be on.
As I recall you cannot lock door when it is open. (Maybe this is why they cycle)
Interior lights are on until battery saver code kicks in and they time out (I forget how long that takes, but its more than a couple of minutes)
You cannot close window all the way. (Don't forget it is dropped to clear the roof rubber seal until it is closed)
When door is closed or switch thinks it is:
Window drops each time you use door handle.
Door open message goes away.
Door open chime doesn't work.
Interior lights off.
Gosh I can't think of anything else that is switched or controlled by door closed status. I just wanted to list a few things that can maybe help you target or eliminate a faulty switch.
If it is a bad switch, more than one of us had the trouble clear itself while working on it. Others have had success squirting WD40 on the mechanism and cycling it a few times (latched, unlatched repeat).
Let us know how you do.
John
Hi again John,
My Car is a 1996 convertible, UK model, R/H drive.
From what you describe, I don’t think my problem is the latch micro switch : the dashboard message “drivers door open” appears exactly as and when it should: it lights up as soon as the interior handle is moved and it goes out as soon as the door is slammed shut. The interior lights also switch on and off as they should.
What does not happen is the driver’s door window dropping by an inch when either the outside or inside handle is pulled; and the driver’s door does not lock when R or D is engaged when engine running - passenger door window drops and raises as it should; door locks when R or D selected.
Central locking/alarm cannot be set using the remote fob: sometimes only driver’s door is affected; other times both doors affected. Car can be locked manually using Key, then alarm set by using remote fob.
Does this help?
Thank you for your continued input.
Regards
Mark.
10-28-2013, 08:05 AM
