Well, my 2001 XK8 convertible top is starting to hesitate before it latches and have to give it a manual tug to get it to latch. Any ideas on what is causing this problem and how to fix it without it costing me an arm and a leg. I am not that mechanical, so if it isn't a simple fix, I'll have to take it to my local mechanic.

Could this be related to the hydralic fluid I read about in this forum?
Thanks for any suggestions.

 

The fluid in a 2001 should be OK, it is the later type.

You should check the fluid level. Pull the carpet away on the right side of the boot (by the CD changer). This will reveal the pump. Check that the fluid level is between the two embossed lines on the translucent tank. If not, it needs to be topped up, and you need to keep an eye on it to see if it goes down again.

 

When you listen to the pump running do you hear any gurgling noises from it? As if bubbles were running through it.

 

When checking the fluid level also check that the Tee handle on the pump body is turned hard clockwise. It's a pressure release valve for manual operation.
Your symptoms are due to low pump output pressure.

 

At times the roof operation does a little hesitation prior to the roof latch grabbing the roof. This hesitation is contributed to the lift cylinder travel to a fully roof closed and locked position and only at that time will the header latch operate. Still check the fluid level and the petcock closed.

 

Gus, does lubrication of the latch 'works' affect this phase of the latching cycle ?
If so should the OP take off the trim + grease the mechanism?
The reason I said it was low pump pressure is that if I've set my pressure relief valve slightly low this phase can fail.

 

Keeping the switches and the rack clean and free of dirt and grime is a good thing; however, in this case what the control module was looking for is a complete operation of the rams to trip the switch located in the ram. If the switches in the header were out of sequence (closed when it should be open) then the roof would not go up. Now if the rack were sluggish then cleaning it would be in order. The rams must be fully extended to lock the roof and that has several benefits for window operation along with safety.

I should also note that the pressure relief valve is not in operation when the pressure is applied to the rams. The pressure to them does not get as high as the pressure for the roof latch.

 

Gus, I am having the same issue. Please help. I replaced the hoses 2 years ago. The other day i put something in the back window area and forgot and put the top down. Now the top will go up and down but hesitates for 10+ seconds and the pump gargles before latching the top down. But then the windows won't roll up. It may be the rams, but I don't know what to do with them.
Here is what I have tried: Added more fluid to the top line level with CHF11. Swapped the latch lines back and forth. Manually latched. Rolled the windows up and down by jumping the relay. Tightened the relief valve real tight.
Here is what it could be but not sure. Rams need to be reset somehow. Put sealant on the hydraulic resevor plug, but it may be leaking (Doubt It)

Thanks Blake...

 

Blake,

First the hoses to the latch are directional and you need to be sure you put them back the way they were when the roof was working. Next be sure the tank is full to the top embossed line of the tank then open the petcock and open the roof to remove the item in the window area. Take the roof and open it all the way and you may need to apply a little pressure on both sides to be sure the rams are set. Close the latch with the allen wrench and be sure the rear windows are open once that is done close the petcock (clockwise) and do a hard reset on the car. When all of that is done start the car and push the roof close button and hold it. The roof should close properly the latch comes up and the roof should lift and the latch should grab the roof then the rear windows should go up.

You mentioned that you tightened the LSI valve if it was the pressure setting you need to get that back to the position it was. If you had adjusted it to produce less pressure the roof may operate a little slower than normal but do not let up on the close button until the roof close operation is completed.

I hope this helps.

Update Forgot when you do the hard reset you window memory will need to be reset and you may lose you programmed radio stations.

 

How did you make out??

 

I have a similar problem. When putting the top down the latch does not fully release when the top starts to retract. I can override this problem by helping push up on the top and the top releases without pulling back on the latch.

Is this a hydraulic fluid issue or is there some sort of ram adjustment that raised the top higher prior to retracting?

Jim

 

Do you have a 2007 as your profile says? If so this is the wrong group...your later model is completely different and you will be led down the wrong path.

Repost in the XK/XKR 2007-2015 group and I will answer your question.

 

My current car is a 2006 XKR Victory Edition.

 

First be sure that the petcock is closed and that the fluid level is to the top embossed line on the tank. The next step is to lubricate the lift rams and the latch ram and linkage WD40 works well at cleaning and lubricating the ram shafts then operate the roof a few times and see if the situations still exists.

 

I have been collecting & dealing in Clocks and Guns for close to 50 years and dealing with WD40 messes previous owners induced. WD40 as we know it is NOT a lubricant. The "WD" stands for water displacement. It is a solvent not a lubricant, and will dry up in time leaving a gummy mess behind when it combines with dirt and old lubricants. It will also remove what lubrication and corrosion protection that you have to start with.


I've had 100's of Clocks and guns where the mechanisms seized up from being hosed down with WD40 that dried. It will free it up momentarily but sooner or later you will have to take it all apart, clean off the dried gummy mess, and then lubricate it properly.


If you use it to clean the exposed rods in you rams, fine, but wipe them down well after and oil them with synthetic or mineral oil as petroleum oil turns to varnish with time.

 

Is the Peacock the adjustment pressure piece?

 

The petcock is the “T” handle on the side of the pump, clockwise is closed and counterclockwise is to open and you want it closed to operate the roof.

As for the WD40 it works well to clean and lubricate the shaft once it is operating properly you can spray it with a silicone lubricant if you wish.

 

I mean no disrespect but WD40 works well on cars not clocks or gun so we agree in part.

 

Gus, I tried the things your mentioned, and still no go. The top stalls for 10 seconds and the pump gargles, then it latches, but not all the way, and the windows don't go up. I I'm going to try to clean the Rams to see if that helps but it may be a pump pressure issue I topped off the fluid to the top line but no further should I fill it more, and how do you get to the Rams

 

Check your PM