RE: Replacing speakers in X-Type
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RE: Replacing speakers in X-Type - 1/5/2008 4:14:33 PM
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aquill1
Posts: 5245
Joined: 9/27/2006 Status: offline
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From the sounds of it the factory amp works it is the speaker that have the problem but I'm not for sure. Hey agl I can get pretty good deals on mb quart components if you were wanting components. I'll have to check my book and see...I know I can get their lower line of 5.25's for like 40 bucks. Pretty sure the esa 213 is the model that I get for like 40...link for the set... I forget how the speakers are powered on the alpine system...isn't there an amp somewhere for them, they can't just be powered by the headunit alone, right?
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RE: Replacing speakers in X-Type - 1/5/2008 6:03:55 PM
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AGLXTYPE
Posts: 61
Joined: 11/3/2007 Status: offline
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Q. Does the factory amp in your case power all the interior speakers? A. Yup.
< Message edited by AGLXTYPE -- 1/5/2008 8:28:01 PM >
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RE: Replacing speakers in X-Type - 1/5/2008 8:32:28 PM
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AGLXTYPE
Posts: 61
Joined: 11/3/2007 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: AGLXTYPE Q. Does the factory amp in your case power all the interior speakers? A. Yup. Q. I forget how the speakers are powered on the alpine system...isn't there an amp somewhere for them, they can't just be powered by the headunit alone, right? A. I believe they are powered by the head unit and not an external amp. Speaker wise I am leaning more toward the Kicker 07DS650.2 from Onlinecarstereo.com. They don't require much power and the tweets are 3/4 inch (19mm) so they should fit no problem in the factory location. Can you get me an even better deal on the Kickers? lol Nate
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RE: Replacing speakers in X-Type - 1/6/2008 4:10:25 AM
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xdave
Posts: 44
Joined: 4/22/2007 Status: offline
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Hi Agl, The pre-2004 systems are powered by the head unit. The amp is connected off a spur between the speakers and the head unit to get the inputs for FR, FL, RR and RL, but as far as I am aware it only outputs to the subs. I can't see how it would work otherwise. As to why you need to take the sub output to ground, there could be a couple of reasons. The fact that you only need to do it to start the system up suggests that the amp is geared for a lower resistance and the new amp you are driving from it has too high a resistance, causing nothing to flow. You could check by measuring the resistance and voltage between the two sub wires when starting without the new amp or old subs connected, with the subs connected, and with the new amp connected instead. There is an input from the head unit on pin 2 of the OEM amp connector that goes +12V when the audio system is activated, and goes to 0V when the system is switched off (i.e. a wakeup signal). You could use that to make a simple electrical switch when it rises, by replacing your toggle switch with a suitable capacitor, resistor and a small relay in place of the factory sub. You do need to find out why you are having to do that first though.
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