RE: 86 xj6
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/14/2008 9:54:36 AM
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Jose
Posts: 352
Joined: 3/11/2007
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Thanks Ken!
hello to the new XJ owner.
1) there is no AUX Fan Switch, only a Thermal Switch located on the bottom right of the radiator, towards the engine compartment side with two epoxy-dipped wires sticking out from it. Totally inaccesible! You can try to get to it from below the car, removing the splash panel underneath the radiator, then try to get a big wrench in there to turn it counterclockwise.
But the Thermal Switch may not neccesarily be the problem, the symptom you describe is usually caused by the Red Relay located on top of the radiator support beam, on the left side of the engine compartment and connected to a 4-wire socket. Those relays rust inside, you might pry it open and clean the contacts to see before you replace the Thermal Switch. Mine is the original 1984 (1983 actually since these cars were built a year before they were shipped to dealers), and it still works fine.
The Thermal Switch kicks the auxiliary Fan ON, at around 95 degrees centigrade, even after shutting the engine off, then it shuts it off automatically.
The FUSE for the Aux Fan is located in the Fuse box located in the engine compartment, next to the coolant recovery tank. The 1st fuse closest to the radiator is the Aux. Fan fuse.
2) The Wiper Stalk Switch is "rebuildable". The Wiring from the switch extends under the dash where it meets with a large rubber vulcanized plug. To separate the two halves of the plugs, you twist them as you pull, very painful. When working with those harnesses, it is best to disconnect the battery first, in case you decide to separate them with the help of a flat blade screwdriver, it's very easy to blow 20 fuses in series. There is also a pair of black wires connecting by way of "bullet" connectors to the Turn Signal Switch. Make sure you disconnect those two too, which are located on the top of the steering column, to the left of the Wiper switch.
Of course, you have to remove the upper and lower "nacelles", (steering column black plastic covers), and to get those out properly without cracking them, you have to remove the ignition switch and headlamp switch "escutcheons", or plastic finishing covers. PHEEEWWW! And also the panel under the dash and related plastic corner-covers must be removed, including the Floor Vent panel on the left front side of the center console.
Not to mention THAT: The Steering wheel itself should be removed along with the Upper Adjustable Steering column, per the Factory Service Manual Procedure. But you might get away with just loosening the big scalloped Nut behind the steering wheel, and pulling the steering wheel towards you to maximum adjustment. Once you do it once, the second time is easier, if that's any comfort. Actually, these cars are simple to work on, so just be very gentle with everything you touch.
3) order the Transmission service kit from Ken to do a servicing if you don't know the history of the transmission servicing. And you should follow the Service Manual Procedure to the letter, not try to guess your way through it.
4) the Factory Service and Parts Manual CD will be the best $25.00 you'll ever spend.
you can order it here: http://www.lbcarco.com
Otherwise, I hope you've had some luck already.
Jose
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/14/2008 12:21:35 PM
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davidboger
Posts: 20
Joined: 1/3/2007
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Normally I can get to the thermal switch by simply removing the air filter housing/horn, and taking a long reach to get to it.
You can test the switch function by disconnecting the wiring harness, and jumping the wires together. In a system that has been changed to a switch inside the car, that is done anyway, as the thermal switch is no longer needed. You can also bypass the relay, to see if that is where the problem lies.
I think from the previous post you already have the old wiper switch removed, you're just having problems making the wiring connection.
I agree with everything Jose says, IF you are removing the entire turn signal/wiper assembly. But just the wiper side can be removed independantly, cutting the time in half. So unless you are a Jag Technician on the clock, keep plugging away at it the way you are, and you'll get there.
The factory service manual would be a great help to you on some of the more difficult operations. My preference has been the paper version. I have both, and the CD is awkward to navigate at times, and the parts manual on CD is incomplete. You can get either of the hard copies on Ebay pretty cheap.
Good luck
David
EverydayXJ
< Message edited by davidboger -- 2/14/2008 2:18:48 PM >
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/14/2008 5:48:02 PM
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tylerw2239
Posts: 21
Joined: 2/12/2008
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That info is excellent you guys.
Now that i look back. A while ago I took off the red relay above the radiator because it was so obviously sitting there looking like a culprit. I cleaned off the contacts and everything, but when my friend moved the car he didn't say the fan had stopped spinning when the battery was connected. Therefore a few days later I assumed something went wrong or it fixed itself. All the things you guys have suggested so far I will be trying.
David- You are correct the only thing I am removing is the wiper switch. It is only connected through the wires, I was jsut not sure where the connections were. I will attempt to do as told. Tomorrow I'm going to try to fix the fuelk changeover, then maybe test the fuel level (assemblies?) in the gas tanks. Will post some pics and updates. thanks again!
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/14/2008 5:50:22 PM
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tylerw2239
Posts: 21
Joined: 2/12/2008
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by the way I have a haynes repair manual for this car that ive been using. Its been working OK for me
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/14/2008 6:04:42 PM
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davidboger
Posts: 20
Joined: 1/3/2007
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Tyler
The relay could have been jumping terminals, and the cleaning helped. Or it may have just quit. As long as it's cold out, there's no cause for concern. When the temps start climbing again, you'll know if its working. If not, I can tell you how to bypass both the relay and thermal switch to find the culprit.
My 75 XJ12 was doing the same thing once. It was in the relay. Totally different system, same principle.
If you need any help with the tank changeover switch, or sending units just let me know. I'll be glad to help talk you through it.
The Haynes manual is fine. It's a good overview of the workings of all the Series XJ6 (1-3). Not as detailed as the shop manual, but not as techical either. I find myself consulting several different manuals. Seems one fills in the blanks of another.
David
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/15/2008 8:00:46 PM
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tylerw2239
Posts: 21
Joined: 2/12/2008
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Ok, wiper switch is on and in good working order.
Broke the hazard switch taking off the upper steering wheel casing. :(
took out the fuel line to the bad gas tank (probably 15 year old gas!) smelled terrible and had gunk in it. Doesnt look too bad so i'm going to drain it via the manual. taking off the rear bumper and see what suprises await me. Ill try flushing out the bad stuff with some new gas. Throw in the new changeover valve. and it shall be road ready. Put on the tires and do a trans filter kit like you guys suggested too.
After this ill bring it to a shop to get the A/C and heat working. I'm getting excited! Thanks again,,
-Tyler
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/15/2008 8:45:30 PM
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davidboger
Posts: 20
Joined: 1/3/2007
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I had to remove a wiper switch today also. I left the upper casing in place, to avoid such a break. A bit of a PITA to get to the upper bolt, but still a lot better than taking apart half the steering assembly.
You shouldn't need to remove the rear bumper, unless you are going to drop the entire tank, and then only the rear section of the side you are going to drop. To drain and flush just open the drain on the bottom of the tank, catching the fuel and junk of course. Reach up in there and you'll feel a filter, pull that out (replace it with new later, Ken.....) Then just dump a little more fuel in there, slosh it around, drain again, repeat......
Techically, you shouldn't have to remove anything other than the large stopper at the bottom of the tank, and the filter.
If it's never been done before, you won't see the nut. What you'll see instead is a cover. Typically I just prise mine out, ruining them. They can be saved by dropping the rear valance. Of course there are about 14 bolts/screws holding it on, and some of them can be tough. On my cars I just break them up in little pieces with a screwdriver, and throw them away. After the cover is removed, you can either drain it the slow way by a 15mm bolt on the stopper, or remove the entire stopper at once with a 21mm. Be ready to catch some nasty gas.....
There are three changeover valves in all, one in the trunk (boot) and one in each fender well. They basically open and close when voltage is applied to them. It's not a complicated system, I can explain in detail if you'd like.
You have neither heat nor AC? Getting anything from the vents when you turn the fans on?
David
EverydayXJ
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/16/2008 7:05:19 AM
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tylerw2239
Posts: 21
Joined: 2/12/2008
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Well, I kind of get what you are saying with the gas tank, but I dont quite know what you're talking about. Are you talking about a bolt under the car thats easily accessible and just drains the gas?
I hope just this center changeover valve will do the job.
The blower motors work, just no hot air or cold air. A/C clutch works though. The guy i bought it from said he had someone look at it and said it just needed an O-ring.
_____________________________
1986 xj6
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/16/2008 4:40:21 PM
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davidboger
Posts: 20
Joined: 1/3/2007
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Hi Tyler,
I am a bit confused. What are your tanks doing exactly?
The drain for the fuel tank is almost straight down from the filler cap, behind the rear wheel.
Why are you removing the bumper?
The AC and heat is probably the amplifier. The system is a bit confusing, even to the AC guys. It's a lot different than on "normal cars". It's a climate control system, that used temperature sensors in the car, an amplifier and servo to tell the A/C or heat when and where to blow, and a heater control valve that lets coolant into the heater matrix to supply heat.
My guess is that you have a bad amplifier, heater control valve (on the firewall in the engine compartment) and a discharged system. Replacing one won't do anything, if the other parts are non functional.
I'm not totally sure on the wheel lugs. They look similar to the ones that came on the stock "Kent" wheels. None of my cars have wires, so I'm not totally sure what your car needs.
David
EverydayXJ
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RE: 86 xj6 - 2/17/2008 7:19:58 PM
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Jose
Posts: 352
Joined: 3/11/2007
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ok, let's get technical:
that's why you needed to remove the escutcheons or "finisher covers" for the ignition and headlamp switches, so you wouldn't break the hazard switch while removing or reinstalling the upper half of the "nacelle" or "steering column cover" !! Ask me how I know that.
Once you remove those two switch "escutcheons-finishers", the upper half of the plastic cover comes off easily, ASSUMING, that you have removed the short screw located at the rear-left side of the top cover, screwed vertically up, and which most cars don't have anymore because people don't want to bother with it or because it wasn't there anymore; But leaving that screw off, results in a loose cover assembly which moves and rattles; I have seen many cars like that. Amazing that one little screw can make the difference between a car that feels like new, and one that feels like a junker. If you look under the top half of the plastic steering column cover, you will see the brass insert where the screw goes into; Then you look on the rear-left side of the steering column, and you'll see the Bracket/leg where the screw goes through.
Then: there is a 1/16" error in the square opening for the Hazard Switch on the left side of those two cover halves! So the way to avoid stressing the switch "handle", is to tighten that little screw as you push the upper cover forward towards you, to allow maximum spacing between the Hazard Switch handle and the square opening. Practice makes perfect.
You can get a new hazard switch for around $25.00 to $45.00 nowadays, 15 years ago they were $60.00. $25. is the same price that a proper Factory Service Manual CD would have cost you. Haynes manuals are a joke but it's your money.
The auxiliary (electric) fan can be rewired to operate continuously, as in everytime the compressor kicks in. It's called The Fan Mod. Only trouble with that, is that you want the opposite in Winter, i.e., No aux. fan at all. And during Summer it can be very annoying because those fans are noisy, not to mention they put a heavy load on the alternator, something which you would inmediately notice in the voltmeter gauge reading. I modified mine and then un-modified it. My car does not overheat anyway. The "Mod" costs around $3. or less for the parts needed. The main part is a specific Diode required.
Jose
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