2000XKR break job
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RE: 2000XKR break job - 5/14/2008 7:30:06 PM
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test point
Posts: 122
Joined: 3/23/2008 Status: offline
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. . . and evacuate the master cylinder reservoir with a turkey baster, or something simuliar, and refill with fresh fluid to prevent having to pump all the old stuff through the system.
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RE: 2000XKR break job - 5/15/2008 3:30:29 AM
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rscultho
Posts: 105
Joined: 12/3/2007 Status: offline
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In my experience, anytime you open the bleeder screw you take the chance of introducing air into the caliper piston assembly, and this will make your pedal spongy. Even if you connect a hose, the hose needs to be completely filled with fluid - devoid of air. It is unsafe to have air in your brake lines. It is very important that you don't introduce air into your brake lines (you should remove it by bleeding the system). You can buy an inexpensive "one man" brake bleeding tool, which is a hand held vacuum device that will "suck" the brake bluid out without depressing the pedal. This is the way I do it if I don't plan on bleeding the system. I get a glass jar and pour about an inch of brake fluid in the bottom. I connect a hose that fits snuggly to the nipple of the bleeder screw. Put the other end of the hose in the brake fluid in the jar - ensure the end of the hose is submerged in the fluid. Put pressure on the pistons with the C Clamp, and then open the bleeder screw and close it quickly. This will allow the fluid to escape from the calliper into the hose. Repeat this procedure until the pistons are pushed back in - seated fully. By submerging the hose in the fluid, and if you don't get the bleeder screw closed quickly enough, you won't suck air back into the caliper when the presure "reflexes". When the pressure reflexes and pulls back it will suck fluid instead of air. If you plan on bleeding the system after you do the brakes, then don't worry about the air, since you will be removing all the air from the lines when you bleed the system.
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