Painting Interior Trim pieces

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Painting Interior Trim pieces - 5/21/2008 7:47:27 PM    Grim001   Posts: 80 Joined: 3/25/2008 Status: offline I just got a fascia plate for my aftermarket radio and it isn't semi gloss black like the center console section.  Anyone know of a good way to paint it so it won't flake off if scratched.  I have seen people try to paint automotive plastic parts and it never seems to stand up to any wear.  Any ideas out there? The trim is a medium to a "light" dark gray and has a smooth texture on it. Post #: 1

RE: Painting Interior Trim pieces - 5/22/2008 2:30:10 PM    h20boy Posts: 1014 Joined: 3/29/2007 Status: offline Definately try the small cans of aeresol touchup automotive paint at the local auto parts store.  It is a much finer mist, making it for a smoother application. I painted a plastic toy with it, and then used a gloss atop it.  You may be able to do flat black, or dark charcoal, there's lots of colors if you go looking...then gloss as needed to match your console.  Or else, you could take your faceplate to a car audio shop that paints these things daily to match customer interiors...but that is the pricey way to go.  good luck _____________________________ Matt '03 XK8 CvTbl My Jag Galleries (in reply to Grim001) Post #: 2

RE: Painting Interior Trim pieces - 5/23/2008 10:36:04 AM    BuckMR2 Posts: 960 Joined: 10/6/2006 Status: offline I think in our bodyshop they use a spray glue before painting.Also make sure you get the right paint for plastic's. _____________________________ BuckMR2, Cruise,Rev Park,Premium Sound upgrade,3.0 Sport Man,Cranberry seats, Quads,EBC Redstuff ceramic pads & grooved/dimpled discs all around,2009MY grille (in reply to h20boy) Post #: 3

RE: Painting Interior Trim pieces - 5/23/2008 5:34:48 PM    Thermo Posts: 176 Joined: 5/17/2008 Status: offline Grim, if you are painting interior pieces, you need to keep two things high on your priority list.  The first is using what is called adhesion promoter.  This provides 2 different functions.  The first being a binding agent between the slick plastic surface and the paint attempting to adhere to it.  Some people recommend sanding the plastic with 400 grit sand paper to roughen up the surface.  The second thing the adhesion promotor does is allow the paint to "float" above the plastic and to allow the paint to remain still as the plastic flexes.  This prevents the paint from cracking except under extreme flexing. The second item on the priority list is using a few layers of clear.  I painted pieces inside of my truck 5 years ago and they still look like they were painted yesterday.  Making sure that you find a hard clear is also key.  You can attempt to "bake" the paint a little bit by painting the piece(s) and then once the paint is dry enough to handle, to put it inside of the oven at about 150-170F for about 30 minutes.  This will force the paint to set deep into the clear, making it the hardest that it will be.  This will ensure that the clear will last as long as possible.  By applying a few coats of clear, any wear that happens will have to travel that much further to get to the color layer. If you have more questions, just ask.  I'm doing some painting on my X-type right now for pieces under the hood. Chris "Thermo" Coleman (in reply to BuckMR2) Post #: 4

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