I saw the videos with the power buffer, but wondering what anyone has done by hand that came out good. I used a buffing compound, then a scratch remover, then a polish and it worked ok, but I could tell it didn't take out the pits that well. Maybe I can just do find sandpaper first by hand then all the other stuff.
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HONDA CL160

 

Honestly by hand you will be limited to the overall quality of the repair. It can be accomplished by hand , but why work harder when you can work smarter and more efficiently. Pits are one thing and a failed, yellowed cloudy light is another.....If pits are what your concerned about then you will definitely need some juice behind you....to level out the polycarbonate lens

 

I've seen it done by hand with headlight restoration 'stuff', like what they sell at the auto parts store. The issue is, after some time (a few weeks), the yellowing comes back. My father gave it a go with his 2000 Nissan Maxima. It clearly didn't clean all of the yellow out, but it did look better.

I don't know much on the subject. My lenses are glass.

 

If you're only going to use it for headlamps, you could pick up the powerball thing that attaches to a drill. At least you'll have some power. I did my mother's cloudy headlamps on her LS with polishing compound then a wax sealant. We'll see how long that lasts.

 

The way to go with your headlights is to use the 3M headlight restoration kit you can pick up at most automotive stores. It attaches to a standard drill and produces fantastic results. I had yellowing and cracking on my S type when I first bought her. After using the 3M kit, it was good as new again.

Pick up a kit - you won't be disappointed!

Here's a pic of the kit you're after :



Cheers,
Rob

 

Thanks spitfire, I'll do that. I should pick up a drill also.
________
Ecigarettes

 

I took some before and after photos of my headlights using the 3M system. I'll have to find them and post them on here for you to see the results. Just have to find them....

 

Jeff, you're a guy without a cordless drill/screwdriver? You're due buddy!

 

It should have been at the top of my bday and xmas gift list for years. I see lots of them and wonder which is good. I see 12v, 14.4v, 19v for the cordless. Are they all basically the same and the volts give them more torque? I am fine with a corded drill since I would need it rarely.
________
Michigan Dispensary

 

I have several older vehicles and I am a member of several forums. Here is a write up on the way to restore headlights. The difference is old to better then new.
Problem: My headlights were RIDICULOUSLY GROSS AND YELLOW!! (don't have a camera capable of showing the pics how bad it was)

Items Needed:
1) Brillo pads Cost: $2~$4 (Wal-Mart)

2) 2000 wet/dry Sand paper (I used 4 small 9'' by 11'' pieces) Cost: $3~$5 (AutoParts Store)

3) Spray bottle Cost: $1~$3 (Wal-Mart)

4) Meguiar's PlastX Cost:$5-$7 (AutoParts Store)

5) Polishing pad for a drill Cost:$20~$21 (AutoParts Store or EBay for roughly $10)

6) Drill Cost: Borrow one if you don't own one


Steps:
1) Pop the hood and using the Brillo pad in circular motions, scrape off all the nasty yellow from the lens. Use the Water bottle to keep it nice and wet spraying as you go along. This should scratch the lens a lot, but don't worry, just keep going till the years of oxidization are gone. (Took me roughly 10 minutes each headlight, but mine were BAD!)

2) Use the 2000 grit sand paper (or higher if you can find it, 2500 is plenty high) and keep the headlight wet while you go to town on it to remove the scratches you just made with the Brillo pad. It should look really good as of this point, but you will notice still tiny scratched all over it. (Took me 10 minutes each headlight, take the time during this step, it really matters!!)

3) Use the drill, buffer pad and Meguiar's PlastX with the drill on high and apply medium pressure as not to rip up the pad but to buff out those tiny imperfections. (Took me about 8~10 minutes a headlight)

4) Apply a coat of the Meguiar's PlastX and buff out with a towel

5) Stand back and admire how amazing the VX looks for hours till your friends tell you you are annoying and mention how you won't stop talking about how cool the headlights look

Photo #1 (sorry i have a horrible camera and this was at night)


Photo#2


If I had something other than a crappy camera phone you could see they are crystal clear!!! Hope this helps.

 

Good post XJcat. If there was a product that could be applied after that for some long-term UV protection, this tutorial would be even better.

 

Great DIY'er!

The biggest problem you face now is long term protection as H2Oboy mentioned. Now that the sacrificial OEM coating has been removed due to failure, just adding a wax or sealant is not enough over long term. What eventually happens over a period of time is that they will yellow again and start to check or crack. This happens because the polycarbonate lens is now bare or it has no UV coating. I highly recommend applying the UV coating once its been resurfaced, you will get a lot more life out of those lenses in the long run!!

 

I use some stuff called 3M Perfect It II (they also have Perfect It III). A terry cloth towel and a little bit of elbow grease and it will take cloudy lights and make them clear again.

If you are worried about restoring the UV protectant, you need to find 2 things. The first and more important part is a clear adhesion promoter. THis can normally be picked up at your bigger auto parts stores. Then you need a can of clear coat. Mask off the parts of the car you don't want to get hit with the adhesion promoter (need atleast 2 feet back covered in paper, if not more). Once that dries (in a few hours), hit them with the clear coat. Once done, you will have the UV protectant back (the clear coat has it in it) and the adhesion promoter will help keep the clear coat attached to the lens. A can of each will be more than enough to do 10 cars. It don't take much.

 

I did get the 3m kit and they are new again, but now I need to keep it long term with the UV protection. Thanks everyone for your info.
________
Wendie 99

 

Before and after photos of the 3 M system using a slower than recommended drill speed. I took almost an hour doing this, some of which was masking.
I recommend masking the top of the bumper and on my model, doing it with the hood (bonnet) up.
I am still looking for a good UV sealant.

 

The right way to restore headlight lenses is with a lens specific coating product..

A true UV coating is cured 8-10 minutes after UV application allowing the product to flash. Using a UV curing lamp like I do you can achieve almost full curing in 4-6 minutes per lens for the best results.