Detailing takes skill, an investment in equipment as well as constantly updating your knowledge base

The best kept secret in detailing - with over five decades of detailing experience distilled in all of these educational posts for both professional and neophyte detailers, covering Detailing, Business, Marketing and so much more Within these articles you’ll discover the ‘How’ and ‘Why’ and find pretty much everything you need to know about detailing.

These articles can also help you better manage and grow your detailing business

TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

 

Is this system recommended for use on pre-owned vehicles as a prep wash for waxing? Or is it more for new vehicles that have traveled long distances on a train and have accumulated rail dust and debris? I've used clay bars on my car with fantastic results, but could it get better with this system?

Thanks.

Link to product below.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...on-system.html

 

[I've used clay bars on my car with fantastic results, but could it get better with this system?]

Short answer - Yes

Long Answer- Because

Detailer's clay and decontamination are two different processes. Be cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination,

1.Above and 2. Below surface;

1. Bituminous Asphalt (tar), Industrial Fallout, Tree resin (sap) and etc) which should be removed with detailer’s clay and / or a chemical paint cleaner and ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) which should be removed with a decontamination product

2. Sintered ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) penetrate the paint surface and if not removed will act as a conduit to the paint matrix system. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started, often showing ‘rust spots’ (blooming) on the paint surface, light colours tend show the necessity of decontamination more that darker colours. I am referring to those small brown ferric oxides (rust spots) that just seem to get larger and larger.

a) Detailer's clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle, leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the corrosion process is started.

b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint's micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle.

In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.

 

I only have one thing I would be concerned about. Right beside the leaper on my hood is a small patch of paint that has "bubbled". It has a bumpy surface but no apparent hole in the paint. I know it has rusted below the paint. Will the iron remover get under the paint and cause it to separate? I don't want chunks of paint falling off. I plan on getting the hood resprayed at some point.

Thanks.

 

Careful sand blasting is the best method for removing medium to heavy rust but you need to be careful not to warp the sheet metal. The metal can be sanded to remove surface rust but if it's pitted you'll need to use a metal conditioner/rust converter to stabilize the surface before priming.

Phosphoric acid may be used as a rust converter; by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate (FePO4)

"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.

After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be washed off, leaving a fresh paint surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance

Follow up with a rust protection aerosol can of ValuGard Rust Inhibitor and/or some Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. If you use a product like Picklex 20 to stabilize the rust you want to make sure you work it into the surface with a scuff pad then wipe it off after a minute or two and coat with an acid free, direct to metal primer like epoxy primer that doesn’t’ contain any acids. If you plan on leaving the metal without primer for any length of time the Picklex 20 will protect it from flash rusting as long as it doesn't get wet.

Rust Prevention

A British company Bilt-Hamber Laboratories has a new product - Dynax UC new high-performance anti-corrosion wax provides a touch-dry firm wax film that's virtually invisible, a low film thickness see-through protective shield. Its firm wax like film is rich in unique metal seeking corrosion inhibitors that stop existing and prevent new corrosion. It can be applied to bare metal or painted surfaces in fact anywhere where a discrete and powerful inhibitor is needed.

This product is aimed at those that want a see-through tack-free film that adds a lot of corrosion protection but preserves the factory look of the underside or lower panels, it’s removable too, so after winter it can be stripped if required, or left in situ and topped up every couple of years, or more if you wish; very easy to use.

Completely safe to use on the vast majority of paint coatings and is ideal where dark colored waxes or under seal would detract from the painted finish of vehicle bodywork or underside.

The touch dry tough wax film also provides mechanical protection to the protected surface too. The ideal product to provide high levels of protection during the winter months; to apply -clean any loose dirt, rust flakes or other debris and then clean with a power-washer, allow product to dry and then apply thin even coating

 

I use CarPro Iron X and it works wonders before claying. Worth reading up on.