Cold start issues
 

Hi all,
my 1969 fhc won’t start cold. It does great with a small squirt of starting fluid, I hold the throttle at about 2000rpm for just a minute, then let the choke take over and it idles fine. It doesn’t even pretend to start without the starting fluid. Any ideas what causes this? Is it just my fuel pump needing replaced? car runs well once it’s warmed up, just curious if there’s a simple fix to keep me from having to carry starting fluid with me everywhere I go. Thanks!

You shouldn't have to even touch the accelerator to start the car. When you turn the key, do you hear the clicking from the right rear where the fuel pump is? Is there gas in the little clear bowl on the right side bulkhead? You do have to pull the choke lever out, too. Once you get it started, push the choke back in gradually. The lever has "stops", keep it pulled out just enough to keep it at idle. Have a friend check for fuel flow out of the fuel line to the carbs while you are cranking it. It could be the pumps shot, didn't you have to whack it to get it going awhile back??

2 things. Firstly, when cold, it can take a bit of churning to get the fuel through and firing, especially if the car has been left for a while.
Secondly, it can take a very firm pull to get the choke right out - quite often we think we have pulled it out but it isn't all the way. Check choke adjustment to ensure you are getting full choke (see service book)
It could also be that you have the car set up too lean - the XK engine likes to run a bit rich. If it's too lean, and you aren't getting full choke, cold starting would be difficult.

@Valerie Stabenow the choke is definitely pulled and I know to put it back in gradually as it warms up. Yes, I hear the clicking from the right rear as the fuel pump sends gas to the engine. Yes I see fuel in the little glass bowl. I do have an in-line filter after the bowl as a secondary safeguard.

as for running too rich/too lean, I am not positive. I’ve messed with the choke adjustment and I believe it is getting full choke, but I guess I am not 100% positive on that, it’s definitely something I can double check. I’ve also played with the idle speed via the set screw to get it tuned in to 750rpm (ish) at full warm idle no choke. Even when sitting for only a few hours it requires another squirt of starter fluid. It runs very well
once it is warm though, making me think the mixture is at least close to correct.

Prior to me having the car (it was my dad’s) it struggled to start ever, and it’s much closer to “consistent” now than it’s ever been. I believe a lot of his issues stemmed from a clog on the fuel uptake from the sump in the gas tank which has been resolved. That’s not to say all fuel lines have been replaced, so I suppose a small blockage elsewhere could still be causing a similar issue?

unlikely to be a blockage/clog, if that was the case it wouldn't run well when warm. Do chewck the choke goes on absolutely full.

It may just be the delay in supply due to the in-line filter. There is a filter sold that goes right in the glass bowl.. perhaps put that in and take out the in-line?

Info on all the various E type fuel filters for that glass bowl:

https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Fuel%20F...20Filters.html

I run the paper filter with the flat gasket in my 69 like what Moss has:

https://mossmotors.com/js660-fuel-fi...kuRNwd3u5ky8JY

There is also a sort of filter in the tank, it's sometimes referred to as a 'sock' and is on the end of the pickup. If that is clogged, it also could be slowing down the fuel supply.

More than one person has told me that repeated use of starting fluid is not a good idea as it can possibly damage the engine. Just a statement as I'm sure there are varying opinions.

Valerie,
I was aware of that sock filter and I’ve recently replaced it so I don’t think that should be clogged, but you never know with how gross some things get. I’ll look into the filters listed though to go into the glass bowl!

another thought
 

I know you are quite skiiled with your car knowledge, but thought of another thing to check... that in-line fuel filter. I once put one on the wrong way... there is/was arrow pointing the fuel flow direction and I did not see it.

I definitely wouldn’t call me quite skilled, I am absolutely flying by the seat of my pants. I DID however learn that fuel filters are uni-directional. Don’t ask how.

hope you are coming along OK... Other thing to check is the carbs. if you take off the air cleaner plenum, can you lift the piston and then release it? It should fall with a gentle 'plink'. You can also take the lid off the carb and look at the black diaphragm. It needs to have the little tab seated in the depression and not have any tears or holes.

thoughts and questions
 

First impression about fuel blockage. It takes very little fuel to run at idle. If you can accelerate hard (once warmed) then concentrating elsewhere might make sense. Proper choke operation should be suspect as suggested by others but, assuming you are suffering through a heat wave like most of us, the choke less suspect. Does your car have dual strombergs and the rest of the original pollution controls? With that setup it can be difficult to avoid a lean mixture. Removing the smog controls while keeping the original carbs is especially tough. Only a guess but I would look hard at mixture. Start perhaps by examining the plugs after driving with the engine running smoothly. I have been down this road and it can try your patience but keep at it.