Thanks for all the info gents. So generous of you all to help. So I took a couple of suspension A arm photos. I believe they have stock style rubber bushings. I think the squeak is coming from the rear one, but not 100% sure. If I need to replace them, is it a reasonable job? Early 911s are a PITA. what bushings do you guys like?

 

Sorry, that first pic is upside down.

So tach generator update. Pulled it off and spun it with a drill. It generates AC voltage. Good news. Looked in the cam area and it appears as though the plastic piece has broken. Is this a pretty easy replacement to accomplish? Looks like a snap ring needs to come out, then the pieces. Appears pretty straightforward. Thanks for the help diagnosing.

Decided to clean the inside of the headlight covers since it has been 20 years. Holy Fg crap! Who the heck designed the nut placement for the trim ring? They are all loose and there is no way to secure them in the proper place. That... was an exercise in patience. God help me when I have to replace a bulb! I should have done it "while I was in there." Sheesh.

 

The bushes seem to be purple in colour which would tell you they are Powerflex. Could you give them a quick wipe and rephoto ?

 

I’m glad to hear that your tachometer issue is being caused by a broken drive dog...the simplest problem to fix. Go to www.xks.com and order part #C25426 for $5.69. In fact, order two or three.

Alan
N.J.

 

Fraser, I wiped off one of the bushings and it is definitely black rubber.

 

Powerflex use various colours to denote the hardness of the material. The only real way to see if it is Powerflex is to dismantle the bush. Powerflex bushes use a stainless steel centre that rotates in the plastic hence why you have to grease them on installing and at regular intervals afterwards, I think it's 5 yearly.
This is what SNG Barratt are selling: -
https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...c-93863768c675
You'll note the originals are NLA and there is an aftermarket repro, but not in stock. I suspect most people just fit the polybush item.

 

Hi t6dpilot,
If you decide to replace the upper A arm bushings, it is not a difficult job. As Alan mentioned, the workshop manual is a must have.....it has very good detail on the suspension work. Be careful to note the position & number of shims under the bushing mounts as they control the caster angle. Since you will have to separate the upper ball joint in the process, it is a good time to inspect it carefully and replace if needed. I used the poly bushings from one of the usual suppliers when I rebuilt my suspension and have been pleased with the results....no squeaks so far! As others have mentioned they will last considerably longer than the rubber ones.
At 20 years since the restoration, I suspect the lower bushings may also be in need of replacement. That job is a little more invasive because the torsion bars have to be disconnected to remove the lower wishbones. Removal is not difficult but replacement can be tedious because the ride height is controlled by the torsion bars. In my experience it can take a couple tries to achieve recommended ride height on both sides.....even with the setting tool mentioned in the manual.

Cheers,
Richard

 

'Morning all. So I finally got to work replacing my tach generator drive cog. Wow, is that a PITA! Curious from those that have performed this replacement, what did you use to remove and replace the snap ring? Seems like a special/modified tool is needed. Short with a 90 degree hook to pull the ring out. But the insertion baffled me. I thought that if I got one end started (top of the ring), I could use a socket just smaller than the tach gen hole to push the rest of the ring in. Didn't have a socket the proper size (1/2 too small and 9/16 too large), so I suspect that a metric one will do the trick. In the end, I just got lucky and popped it in with my finger. Honestly, don't know how I did that...

What are your methods?

I fired up the car and the tach works! Took it for a short celebratory drive and it quit again. Seriously? Now what...?

 

Regarding oil - yes, Valvoline 20 50 is a good oil and will work well, but so will any 20 50. The key imo is to make sure you don't use synthetic or semi synthetic oil; not good for our old engines. Standard mineral oil is what you need. Valvoline, Castrol, Millers, all good.

 

T6? Where do you keep it?
Got a bunch of airplanes up at Kenosha, some at Sandwich.

Steve in Wadsworth

 

Hi Steve. T6 is long gone. Have a Beech Staggerwing now at KARR.

 

You must know the Morrisons. I flew theirs for them right after the rebuild some years ago.

Steve