Sick E-Type
 

My baby is not feeling well. Not sure what it is.
While driving, she just dies. No warning, spluttering or noises. Just shuts off. Sit for about five minutes and she'll fire back up. Happened to me last week, but the forward momentum fired her back up again. Today no such luck. Did it three times in ten miles before I managed to get her back home. Had to drive her home on full choke to get her home.
She was running perfect. Any advice on where to start.

I would suggest to start on either the fuel or electrical system to troubleshoot your issue. With fuel, check the filter for clogging, and gas flow (remove gas feed before the carbs, turn key and watch how much fuel is pumping out into a container), then move to the carbs- check that pot are full of oil, etc.,. For electrical consider changing points, then coil since both can mess up after driving for a few minutes once they warm up from engine heat. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Thank you Alfred. I don't know if this has any bearing on the matter. But I noticed that in the past when I start the car from cold. I Turn the key to ignition on and I can hear the pump ticking. Once it stops I then turn the engine over. These last couple of times when starting from cold I did not hear that sound. Could that be an indication of a worn out fuel pump?
I should also add. Once she is running she runs perfect.

If no ticky, no fuel pumping. Check for loose connections at the pump, and the fuse it connects to, but may also be time for a new pump.

Alfred. After doing some further investigating. Fuel pump is making the correct noise on ingnition start up. I took the panel that conceals the fuel pump off and all connections are firmly fitted. It looks like a fairly new pump. Checked the carbs and both have the correct amount of oil in them. Fuel is getting to the carbs, and the fuel in the glass bowl is clean.
In regards to the points and coil. I was getting set to replace them with an electronic system. Might this cure the problem?

An old coil and/or old condenser can work for a while then suddenly stop, then work again once cooled down. Bad points or old dizzy cap would more often give you constant grief. Old plug wires can mess you up as well, so if you are switching out to electronic ignition change to new plug wires as well.

Inspect the points closely. A lot of arcing damage may be an indication of a failing condenser and will erode point contact, changing the dwell etc.
Consider replacing as a cheap first fix.
My experience with my fuel pump is, upon initial start up, it will sound (tick) quickly, after the system is pressurized it will slow down and "tick" rhymically thereafter......

Hey Arsenal fan:
You have stated that when the engine runs it runs great ! Sooooo that would indicate that your problem is caused by insufficient fuel delivery. You said that you had to drive home with the choke on full ! This would suggest a clogged gas filter or clogged filters at the carb top of the float bowls. If this is the cause the car would still idle smooth and run properly for the first kilometre and then start to die, as the pump can't push enough fuel through the clogged filters to maintain any speed. If after cleaning all filters, gas tank sump filter, in-line filter, (if you have one), glass bowl screen filter and the filters in the carb fittings, and the car runs fine you have solved your problem......keep us posted.

Classic fuel pump problem...almost certainly.
Edward

Hey Arsenalfan, I agree your symptoms indicate classic fuel starvation, best assessed by hard acceleration in second gear from 1,000 to at least 4,000RPM once engine is at normal operating temp. Any hesitation, any coughing, spluttering, or dying, anything less than strong and continuous acceleration is a sure sign of problems . . . and work to do.

In a heartbeat, I would pull fuel pump and have it bench tested, pull and flush fuel tank and be astounded by the crud you will find, and only then, replace fuel filter (unless fuel tank is pristine AND you have replaced fuel filter already).

However, in a near 50yo car, I would heed advice from both Alfred and RedRider that, as a low cost no-brainer, you ditch and renew distributor points and capacitor. To these, I would add new spark plugs, HT leads, rotor, and cap.

Cheers and best wishes,
:icon_toast:
Ken

I am with Mr Barry especially if you ave a pump that uses points. Next time it occurs check the fuel level in the filter. If it is low you can be pretty sure you found the culprit. When the points stick, a light rap with a hammer on the pump will often free them temporarily. I have been there. If you replace the pump use an electronic unit w/o points.

Bill